PeteyTurbo

iTrader: (9)

Going up it needs to be pitched about 4 times and each time a different way except the last..I'd rather not even talk about a 6 speed.

TalonFiero

iTrader: (18)

Just got done with my first evo clutch install. I own an MR so I did a six speed, wouldn't know about a five speed. Did it all by myself in my garage on jackstands with simple tools.

I have done a few 1g DSMs and my 2g DSM 5 different times.

I think a 2g DSM install is "harder" than my Evo six speed. The Evo was a longer job though.

The reason I say this is I hate having to try and manuever a tranny into place, my awd tranny on the DSM would hit everything when I would try to install it, I hated life and then it would just go on when I was about to give up. Uhg

The Evo I decided to remove the radiator (easy), dropped the subframe (easy but power steering fluid leaked a fair amount). This gave me so much room! I was able to use a single floor jack, ratcheting strap and just me to pull the tranny straight off and the I was able to jack the tranny straight back up right onto the engine again. No twisting heavy a$$ tranny, no fighting clearances, no need to remove rear tranny mount from tranny, No problems.

Tips from my install.

I used the MitsuJoe tranny install and EVOMOTO guides as reference for the most part.

You only need to remove the driver side inner axle shaft with a slide hammer, passenger side can stay in the tcase.

By a hose clamp off pliers from sears, by a couple (use on the power steering and the ACD line). I used one on the ACD line right next to the banjo bolt on the tcase, that way I didn't loose any fluid in the ACD line once I removed it. Credit for this tip goes out to FATHOUSE

If you are doing it by yourself or don't mind a little extra work but an easier install, remove the subframe and radiator for clearance galore. With the subframe remove its a great time to upgrade swaybar and instal stiffer steering rack bushings.

Build a wood frame in the engine bay to help support tranny from above with ratcheting strap. This is an old tranny shop trick I learned from those in the business. I do this as opposed to using a cherry picker/engine hoist. I don't like how the hoist legs get in my way under the car. The wood frame is a simple "H" looking frame. Place two 2x4 boards that are cut to length (~2 feet) so they rest laying down just inside the fenders in the engine bay (lay some rags down first as so you don't scratch the paint), and one 4x4 thats long enough so it lays across the middle of the engine bay on top of the two 2x4 boards. Should look like an "H" frame when you are done. No need to fasten them together, just lay them together. I then place a ratcheting strap suspended from the 4x4 and then down around the tranny. This gives me all the control I need, I use the floor jack to lower the tranny and work the ratcheting strap to load level or minor angle adjustments on the removal and install of tranny. Never touched bumped the wedge collar on assembly, never had issues with clearing the fender well on the six speed shift linkage. Easy!

Of course this step is easier if you have help but slowly rotate the crank over a bit at a time and you should be able to shove the tranny right back on. A friend can just slowly turn the crank over while you shove the tranny back on which is even quicker. You have to have the tranny perfectly level with the engine in order to "stab" the tranny back on. I check the Flywheel/Bellhousing clearance around the tranny from underneath the car as a guide to weather I am perfectly level or not. Once I am level, turn engine over with a breaker bar in the crank pulley bolt and "stab" the tranny on!

Hope this helps someone with a six speed.

Don't be afraid to try yourself, if you have done a tranny removal before this should be no problem.