Tilton clutch ?
#32
my buddy got a quarter master twin disk cerametallic clutch (almost the same as tilton) but the only problem is that misfire occurs when under heavy load above 5,000 rpms. I was told that the light flywheel doesn't dampen enough engine vibrations and it upsets the knock sensor. I was wondering if anybody has these issues with their clutches
#33
Dirk, is this explanation like the one my brother got on the DSM clutch install he did about two weeks ago? You know the one that told him to double check his install on a 1g DSM? Let's see, he's installed clutches in DSM's since 1989, probably a 1,000 of them by now.............
It's all good, we put a Centerforce DF in the car and it fixed it instantly.
Buy the Tilton, you'll like it.
It's all good, we put a Centerforce DF in the car and it fixed it instantly.
Buy the Tilton, you'll like it.
#35
The stock one lasted me 26K miles. Around 90 track passes. At 26K miles a Tilton Hybrind went in. About a dozen track passes. Lasted 14K miles. Started to slip. Ordered new parts. Coverted to full ceramic with up-graded splines. Now 1400 miles on it. No track passes yet. Re-built was a very good price. New PP, floating disk, and 2 cerametallic up-dates disks, under 500.00.
This clutch will hold power great. When you put the car in 1st. gear, you will hear the pressure plate and disks engage. Once you start to roll, there will be a squick or noise. Shifting into second may or may not give you a chirp. Going to 3rd. is very smooth. Step on the gas and let it rev. Stay in gear and let off gas will give you a rattle sound. Also, if you are on the stock ECU, you may get a PO300 code frequently. Will grap quick. This clutches are racing clutches. They all need to be re-built at around 10K to 15K miles. Is the way they work.
It is not your average ACT, etc. You will be aware of it and working together with it at every stop. You got to rev it and slowly lift when getting the car rolling, shifting gears is great, you will never miss one; But, every time you shift, you and the clutch are aware of each other. In other words, it is a clutch that demmands alot of your attention when driving.
I hope this helps you guys.
This clutch will hold power great. When you put the car in 1st. gear, you will hear the pressure plate and disks engage. Once you start to roll, there will be a squick or noise. Shifting into second may or may not give you a chirp. Going to 3rd. is very smooth. Step on the gas and let it rev. Stay in gear and let off gas will give you a rattle sound. Also, if you are on the stock ECU, you may get a PO300 code frequently. Will grap quick. This clutches are racing clutches. They all need to be re-built at around 10K to 15K miles. Is the way they work.
It is not your average ACT, etc. You will be aware of it and working together with it at every stop. You got to rev it and slowly lift when getting the car rolling, shifting gears is great, you will never miss one; But, every time you shift, you and the clutch are aware of each other. In other words, it is a clutch that demmands alot of your attention when driving.
I hope this helps you guys.
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