Tilton clutch ?
Jan 17, 2007 | 02:12 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 182
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From: fresno, ca
Tilton clutch ?
Well my RPS stage 3 clutch started to slip yesterday. And I have been looking into tilton. I was looking at the Cermametallic twin disc clutch.
Any one have any feedback on them? Driveability, track life, launch?
Any help and/or opinions are appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Any one have any feedback on them? Driveability, track life, launch?
Any help and/or opinions are appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Jan 17, 2007 | 03:14 PM
#2
I did a bunch of searching and did not come up with that much info. A guy I know that has a 700hp eagle talon (dd and drag car) recommended that I get either the Tilton or a Quartermaster (which I believe are very similar) as i like to launch my car when I autox. I bought one and it is sitting in my garage waiting to be installed the end of Feb. It is a very expensive option, but I figure, if it saves one clutch install it pays for itself.
Jan 17, 2007 | 04:10 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 182
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From: fresno, ca
Jan 17, 2007 | 07:10 PM
#6
I have a Tilton Cermametallic in my evo that I daily drive and truthfuly I hate it. It is just to grabby and chatters alot. But you have to do what you have to do when all other clutches don't last. It was my 5th clutch and I have rebuilt it once. That is one thing I really like about the clutch. It is cheap to rebuild.
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Jan 17, 2007 | 07:27 PM
#8
The stock one lasted me 26K miles. Around 90 track passes. At 26K miles a Tilton Hybrind went in. About a dozen track passes. Lasted 14K miles. Started to slip. Ordered new parts. Coverted to full ceramic with up-graded splines. Now 1400 miles on it. No track passes yet. Re-built was a very good price. New PP, floating disk, and 2 cerametallic up-dates disks, under 500.00.
This clutch will hold power great. When you put the car in 1st. gear, you will hear the pressure plate and disks engage. Once you start to roll, there will be a squick or noise. Shifting into second may or may not give you a chirp. Going to 3rd. is very smooth. Step on the gas and let it rev. Stay in gear and let off gas will give you a rattle sound. Also, if you are on the stock ECU, you may get a PO300 code frequently. Will grap quick. This clutches are racing clutches. They all need to be re-built at around 10K to 15K miles. Is the way they work.
It is not your average ACT, etc. You will be aware of it and working together with it at every stop. You got to rev it and slowly lift when getting the car rolling, shifting gears is great, you will never miss one; But, every time you shift, you and the clutch are aware of each other. In other words, it is a clutch that demmands alot of your attention when driving.
I hope this helps you guys.
This clutch will hold power great. When you put the car in 1st. gear, you will hear the pressure plate and disks engage. Once you start to roll, there will be a squick or noise. Shifting into second may or may not give you a chirp. Going to 3rd. is very smooth. Step on the gas and let it rev. Stay in gear and let off gas will give you a rattle sound. Also, if you are on the stock ECU, you may get a PO300 code frequently. Will grap quick. This clutches are racing clutches. They all need to be re-built at around 10K to 15K miles. Is the way they work.
It is not your average ACT, etc. You will be aware of it and working together with it at every stop. You got to rev it and slowly lift when getting the car rolling, shifting gears is great, you will never miss one; But, every time you shift, you and the clutch are aware of each other. In other words, it is a clutch that demmands alot of your attention when driving.
I hope this helps you guys.
Jan 17, 2007 | 07:37 PM
#9
Excellent clutch upgrade, highly recommend it. The rebuilds are cheap. You can generally rebuild a Tilton about 8 times, so it makes what seems to be a very expensive clutch very affordable if you are keeping the car. No clip to pop off the throwout bearing.
We have a twin cerametalic at the shop in stock we'd cut a deal on
We have a twin cerametalic at the shop in stock we'd cut a deal on
Jan 17, 2007 | 10:19 PM
#10
The stock one lasted me 26K miles. Around 90 track passes. At 26K miles a Tilton Hybrind went in. About a dozen track passes. Lasted 14K miles. Started to slip. Ordered new parts. Coverted to full ceramic with up-graded splines. Now 1400 miles on it. No track passes yet. Re-built was a very good price. New PP, floating disk, and 2 cerametallic up-dates disks, under 500.00.
This clutch will hold power great. When you put the car in 1st. gear, you will hear the pressure plate and disks engage. Once you start to roll, there will be a squick or noise. Shifting into second may or may not give you a chirp. Going to 3rd. is very smooth. Step on the gas and let it rev. Stay in gear and let off gas will give you a rattle sound. Also, if you are on the stock ECU, you may get a PO300 code frequently. Will grap quick. This clutches are racing clutches. They all need to be re-built at around 10K to 15K miles. Is the way they work.
It is not your average ACT, etc. You will be aware of it and working together with it at every stop. You got to rev it and slowly lift when getting the car rolling, shifting gears is great, you will never miss one; But, every time you shift, you and the clutch are aware of each other. In other words, it is a clutch that demmands alot of your attention when driving.
I hope this helps you guys.
This clutch will hold power great. When you put the car in 1st. gear, you will hear the pressure plate and disks engage. Once you start to roll, there will be a squick or noise. Shifting into second may or may not give you a chirp. Going to 3rd. is very smooth. Step on the gas and let it rev. Stay in gear and let off gas will give you a rattle sound. Also, if you are on the stock ECU, you may get a PO300 code frequently. Will grap quick. This clutches are racing clutches. They all need to be re-built at around 10K to 15K miles. Is the way they work.
It is not your average ACT, etc. You will be aware of it and working together with it at every stop. You got to rev it and slowly lift when getting the car rolling, shifting gears is great, you will never miss one; But, every time you shift, you and the clutch are aware of each other. In other words, it is a clutch that demmands alot of your attention when driving.
I hope this helps you guys.
Jan 17, 2007 | 10:30 PM
#11
I have a Tilton Cermametallic in my evo that I daily drive and truthfuly I hate it. It is just to grabby and chatters alot. But you have to do what you have to do when all other clutches don't last. It was my 5th clutch and I have rebuilt it once. That is one thing I really like about the clutch. It is cheap to rebuild.
Jan 17, 2007 | 11:30 PM
#12
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: fresno, ca
Thanks so mujch guys. I think I will be getting one very soon. Im tired of putting clutched in and having to replace them in a matter of months. It gets old very fast.
David: What are you guys asking for that clutch?
David: What are you guys asking for that clutch?
Jan 19, 2007 | 02:46 PM
#13
If you are looking for a clutch with a long life I am not sure if Tilton is the way to go. Mine has been in the car 6 months and has 8,000 miles on it and has started to slip. Car is daily driven and there are only three 1/4 mile passes on this clutch.
Shad
Shad
Jan 19, 2007 | 03:52 PM
#15
I spoke with Tilton a few minutes ago. With there earlier clutch disc packs the splines were not hard enought and have a tendency to facture. I will be taking everything apart next weekend to find out for sure. One plus is that a new disc pack is only $250 (retail) so it will not be to expensive to fix.
Shad
Shad