Good to hear. I think you would be fine running the RRE and just capping the one nipple. It would do the same as having a hose to the ground but have the advantageous filter on there. Plus zero chance of getting oil on anything.

If you decide to just run the hose I'll snag that can off of you when I buy your intake. Hell, I'll come down to B-dubs tonight and snag it. Lemme know...

 

Good to see that you might have solved the issue, its funny how somthing like that could either be as extreme as your rings being f'ed or as mild as a PCV (which is still not good but an easy fix). I have been having dipstick/oil leak problems for a while and the compression is fine...i will be testing the PCV when it finally warms up.

 

/\ yea it was either a $4 fix or a $12,000 fix...haha

Under low boost (5lbs) there is no more smoke...actually ocne I left this morning there was no more smoke so all of the unburnt oil must have burnt off eariler in the a.m...

After going thru this, I am not worried about the catch can. Maybe when the motor gets built and I do the IM and TB then I may use a filtered setup, but the evo just dosent produce much oil from the pcv as my dsm did.

 

I might be coming out tonight, I am in the mood for some boneless wings!

I actually like the look under the hood now without the rre can taking up space. I am going to make a bracket to mount the twin fire where the can used to be. And without the large pcv lines running around the valve cover, you can see the fuel rail better....really it just looks alot cleaner now.

I will post a picture tonight when I get home.

Hopefully I will be re-installing my alcohol container and stainless line tonight as well...

 

Hagerstown, MD? My guess is that's it's pretty cold there now...below freezing.

Why do I say this? Because I had the exact same thing happen to me with my 2G DSM -- using the same RRE catch can and PCV replacement piece.

I ended up needlessly replacing a turbo in my attempt to solve the riddle. Here's what happened:

1.) Crankcase fumes (with moisture) get passed through the valve cover outlets.
2.) The moisture pools in the can as well as in the hoses if they don't snake downward all the way to the catch can. So, if there is any part in the hose where moisture/water can accumulate and not drain out, it will.
3.) Severely cold weather causes the moisture/water to freeze in the hoses and catch can. When it's this cold, not even an engine running at operating temperature will melt the frozen substance in the hose and catch can.
4.) If there's enough moisture/water in the hoses/can, the ventilation system will become clogged.
5.) Once clogged with the frozen moisture/water, the engine cannot properly vent gasses/moisture from the crankcase. This causes air to be trapped in the crankcase.
6.) This air then pushes oil back up through the oil return line and floods the turbo with crankcase oil.
7.) Because the turbo isn't made to handle such oil pressure, it releases the oil into the intake as well as out the exhaust resulting in a huge mess.

Since you've found the problem, you can now take corrective action so that this doesn't happen in the future. Part of your repair process should be to disassemble the entire intake/intercooler system and clean out all the oil that has surely accumulated. Ideally, you would remove and clean your intake manifold as well, but spraying a small amount carb cleaner in there to break it up will probably suffice. Your intercooler will be the hardest piece to clean. Use gasoline or other solvent to thoroughly flush the IC. Allow it to dry for about an hour.

Hope this helps. Had I seen this thread earlier, I could have saved you some troubleshooting time. Good luck with your repair.

 

wow thanks for the info. I must have lucked out as I pulled the lower intercooler pipe last night and had no oil in the pipe. I was going to remove the fmic but if there was no trace of oil in the licp then there wont be any in the fmic....

I only had a small amount of oil in my intake, just enough for a paper towel swipe to clean up. As soon as the car started smoking I shut it off...thats what saved me from a big mess I think..

But in your run down of the problem...that is exactly what happened. I noticed during the removal of my rre can that there were frozen particles of oil/water in the line and chunks of solid ice in the can itself.....

 

and yea its cold here....this morning it was -12 with the wind chill factor....brrrrr

 

Glad to hear that it was a simple fix even tho Im sure it was stressful. I was gonna say Ive had a the catch can on my fully built 1g for over a 1.5s (2 seasons at the track) and have never had an issue with it but I dont drive the car or run it at all except during race season(march to november). So it was never below freezing.

 

On the way home tonight I got a P0300 code.

When I am cruising at anywhere from 40-70, and start to slowly accelerate, the car starts to hesitate and the boost gauge flutters....this is under very light acceleration...

Any ideas?

I forgot to reset the ecu after the smoke incident with the pcv valve, so I dont know if that might have something to do with it. I am not familiar with the P0300 code.

Also I just changed the plugs about 5 days ago....could they be fouled from the previous problem?

 

UPDATE:

I got my SMC alcohol res. back in so I took the front bumper off to reinstall the res and stainless line. I remembered Pd1 saying to check for oil in the intercooler pipes and intercooler....well I pulled the intake off and oil was sitting in the inlet of the turbo...again. Also found oil in the licp, FMIC (a bunch, an hours worth of cleaning). Luckily, I guess, there was no residue in the UICP and definatly not at the TB..All way very dry. **something weird about there being oil in the intake and other ic pipes is that the car was no smoking all day long, and was driving fine except for the hesitation under part throttle,,,,

So I wonder if this oil back in the turbo is because I didnt clean ou t all of the other parts/gunk leftover from the day before, or something is wrong with the turbo?

Like I said above I threw a P0300 code right before I got home, which I believe is because of the hesitation I was getting at part throttle.

What I have done so far:

-Cleaned out all of the IC pipes, FMIC, and Intake. (drying overnight)
-Sprayed electronics cleaner on the MAFS (drying overnight)
-Checked the oil fluid level-right in the middle of the two hash marks on dipstick
-Reset the ecu and cleared the P0300 *never reset the ecu from the initial problem started
-Re-install alcohol tank and line

Things left to do:

Check spark plugs for anything unusual and/or oil in the plugs (change if necessary)
Spray carb cleaner in the intake manifold after assembly of ic pipes


*I noticed as I had the car on the stands that there was what looked liked oil that had been sprayed/seeping from the oil retun line, oil pump, oil pan.....pretty much most of the seals on the back of the motor. I wiped/cleaned all of the areas off and will check tommorow to see if they show back up. Or when i start the car upon putting it back together..

If anybody has any ideas on the oil issue please advise...

 

Your P0300 (misfire) code is probably the result of this oil backup mess if you weren't getting that SES light before. Cleaning everything and throwing a new set of (properly-gapped) NGK plugs in should resolve the trouble code issue.

The oil leak under the car may also be related to the backup issue. Remember, you had pressure building up in your crank case that couldn't escape. It wouldn't surprise me at all if you popped the oil return line gasket.

I don't think your turbo or engine sustained damaged.

 

Thanks for the response.

I have never gotten a P0300 code before. I definatly think it is related to either the plugs or the TON of sludge in the pipes and FMIC....what a pain!

Luckily nithing got in the IM and TB

 

UPDATE:

Well I got the car back together and took her out for a ride.

The hesitation is gone...but under during WOT the A/F reported by my AEM EUGO reads leaner than what I was before. Typically my A?F would be in the sub 11.1's. Now its between 11.4-12.3???

Here is a pull I did from 2-4th on the highway...

 

RPM Timing Airflow Short Term o2 1 Bank
3707 26 7.73 -3.0 .82
3965 22 10.27 -10.0 .92
4297 20 12.06 0.0 .92
4676 12 18.2 0.0 .94
5234 8 33.57 0.0 .96
6188 11 45.73 0.0 .94
7027 38 2.39 0.0 .84
5496 8 31.23 0.0 .98
5590 9 39.03 0.0 .96
6121 11 44.21 0.0 .96
6633 10 45.43 0.0 .96
6113 33 20.89 0.0 .84
5051 7 36.49 0.0 .98
5301 8 35.18 0.0 .96
5559 8 37.34 0.0 .96
5813 9 40.37 0.0 .96
6082 11 42.55 0.0 .96
6336 10 7.39 0.0 .86
5441 31 5.25 0.0 .9

 

ok, well the car still hesitates in 5th and somewhat in 4th, so I have an appointment with AMStuning to get the car diagnosed......I cant stay up until 2 in the morning after working 10 hours and still have time to do school work....

I will report back with the info..

Hopefully this thread will help someone that has this problem, whatever it is, in the future since nobody on here has had this happened yet...