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Old Feb 22, 2007, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by ihatepotholes
i found these BR7ES on quite a few different sites, but none of em list mitsu evo. are these plugs universal?
i believe so. because when i buy them i just ask for NGK BR7ES plugs.
Old Feb 22, 2007, 08:44 AM
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yes, just go to a local parts store.. for optimal plug use, either clean them or just buy new ones every 5000 miles..
Old Feb 22, 2007, 08:46 AM
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^^yes^^ this is the plug for the VIII
Old Feb 22, 2007, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by deadbeatrec
i believe so. because when i buy them i just ask for NGK BR7ES plugs.
cool would anything happen if i use these plugs n im not making that much power? right now im still on stock turbo and straight pump gas
Old Feb 22, 2007, 08:53 AM
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Local Advanced/Pepboy/O'Riley's/Autozones sell them for under $2/peice.
You could use BPR7ES or BR7ES for stock power level and BPR8ES or BR8ES if you make 50HP or more.
Old Feb 22, 2007, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Ev0ikon
Local Advanced/Pepboy/O'Riley's/Autozones sell them for under $2/peice.
You could use BPR7ES or BR7ES for stock power level and BPR8ES or BR8ES if you make 50HP or more.
no no no no. go with the BR7ES not the pertruding tip or the 8's. no need. do what i said and u will be happy.
Old Feb 22, 2007, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by deadbeatrec
no no no no. go with the BR7ES not the pertruding tip or the 8's. no need. do what i said and u will be happy.
done
Old Feb 22, 2007, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ihatepotholes
done
remember to gap them because they do no come pregaped.
Old Feb 22, 2007, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by deadbeatrec
no no no no. go with the BR7ES not the pertruding tip or the 8's. no need. do what i said and u will be happy.
Well, I took the measurement of the Stock Iridium plugs and it compared exactly to the length (thus protruding tip length) of the BPR series. Take it for what it's worth.
But the good news is that I don't see/log any difference between the protruding (BPR) and non-protruding (BR) plugs on my car (about maxed on on stock turbo+Methanol).
Gapping seems to be more important on my car.
Then again no car is really exactly alike.
Old Feb 22, 2007, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by deadbeatrec
remember to gap them because they do no come pregaped.
.026-.028? i'll keep that in mind, thanks man
Old Feb 22, 2007, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ihatepotholes
.026-.028? i'll keep that in mind, thanks man
yes this is where people get messed up and start misfireing and try colder plugs and waste there money, aka meeeee. haha.
Old Feb 22, 2007, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by deadbeatrec
yes this is where people get messed up and start misfireing and try colder plugs and waste there money, aka meeeee. haha.
what kinda tools do u use to gap the plugs? and how do u measure em?
Old Feb 22, 2007, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by ihatepotholes
what kinda tools do u use to gap the plugs? and how do u measure em?
feeler gage is the most acurate way to measure and go to pep boys or local aoto parts store and ask them, they will sell u something to gap it with.
Old Feb 22, 2007, 01:10 PM
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i would actually recommend started with a larger gap. try .032 first, then gap down from there if you run into mis-fires.

You want to run the largest gap possible to properly expose the spark to the mixture. If you run too big, the spark with actually be blown out, causing misfires, if you run too small, the firing end temp increases, thus does the cylinder temps/pressures. Rule of thumb is to start larger and work your way down until you no longer have misfires. Trust me on this. All engines are different, the gap requirements will change from engine to engine, setup to setup.

Heat range will effect a lot as well, the colder the heat range, the more fouling becomes a problem, make sure your set-up warrants a colder heat range plug. Look at my original post on page one for refference.

CJ


CJ
Old Feb 22, 2007, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by iTune
i would actually recommend started with a larger gap. try .032 first, then gap down from there if you run into mis-fires.

You want to run the largest gap possible to properly expose the spark to the mixture. If you run too big, the spark with actually be blown out, causing misfires, if you run too small, the firing end temp increases, thus does the cylinder temps/pressures. Rule of thumb is to start larger and work your way down until you no longer have misfires. Trust me on this. All engines are different, the gap requirements will change from engine to engine, setup to setup.

Heat range will effect a lot as well, the colder the heat range, the more fouling becomes a problem, make sure your set-up warrants a colder heat range plug. Look at my original post on page one for refference.

CJ


CJ
wow... thats some deep stuff there... thanks a lot. how about i'll just get a HKS DLI II and use the stock plugs. will that work?


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