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Machine Work Vs. No Machine Work On 9k Evo 9 Motor...

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Old Apr 14, 2007, 02:38 PM
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Machine Work Vs. No Machine Work On 9k Evo 9 Motor...

So I blew the rods right out of my block 2 weeks ago due to impatience and I had to find a new motor. I did find one and its on the way to me now. It has about 9100 miles on it. I'm contemplating how to build it now and I'm really up in there of how to do it.

On one hand alot of people say that dropping pistons/rods in with a light hone should be no problem on a motor with such low mileage. The motor is already out of the car but this would require no change in bearings, no machine work, etc...

On the other hand some people to say to just bring it to a machine shop and have them go over it with a fine tooth comb, verifying everything is in the spec it should be.

I really cant decide on which way to do it. I have wiseco's, eagles, arp head studs, supertech valves, springs and retainers all on the way.

The motor is already out so thats making me lean more towards bringing it to the machine shop, i'd rather not bore it out though.

let me know what u guys think
Old Apr 14, 2007, 04:47 PM
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if the motors already out of the car you might as well take it to the machine shop...better safe then sorry. You never know how the motor was previously treated...
Old Apr 14, 2007, 05:04 PM
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agreed it's already out...let a machine shop work their magic
Old Apr 14, 2007, 05:13 PM
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I am a machinist (CNC programer and tool and die)and I would take it in and have them check the specs on it maybe even find out about having it bored and polished. If they are high tech they can even check it for cracks and weak spots. Thats just me but if u got the cash it would be a good idea so u dont blow up anothere investment.
Old Apr 14, 2007, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by show time
I am a machinist (CNC programer and tool and die)and I would take it in and have them check the specs on it maybe even find out about having it bored and polished. If they are high tech they can even check it for cracks and weak spots. Thats just me but if u got the cash it would be a good idea so u dont blow up anothere investment.
He is right i have blown a motor doing the same thing you want to do doing a check on the specs they looked alright we droped the same rod and piston combo you want to use. I blew my motor by mistake but after checking aat the block and walls we found the pistons in 3 and 4 when not sitting in right and the ring was shot.


A budy took a look at it he is on his 5th evo motor and he told me no matter how many times you check and do the math and check the specs it will never be at spec if your going to just drop in pistons and rods.


Its best to buy a new oem block or get a used block and just bore it out. So if i where you i would bore it 20 over hope you make the right choice. Dont make the mistake many have done.
Old Apr 14, 2007, 05:35 PM
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whats wrong with just ball honing the cyl if they look ok and drop in some std pistons and rods? This is what I plan on doing and my evo had 26k miles on it bone stock.
Old Apr 14, 2007, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Markourn
whats wrong with just ball honing the cyl if they look ok and drop in some std pistons and rods? This is what I plan on doing and my evo had 26k miles on it bone stock.

I did it my buddy did it and a few others have done it as well 3 out of 4 times the rings give out because the pistons had a very lil gap where the ring would just give up. I dont really dont know how to explan it but i know you should have a idea of what im talking about.


A oem motor from the dealer would only cost $1700 picked up at the dealer they pay for shipping neways
Old Apr 14, 2007, 05:57 PM
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Ideally you should measure the bores and if one is even a little out of spec bore them all to the next size and order the pistons oversized to them.

I would definitely get every thing miked and checked out. Even if it is only for piece of mind.

You could also get everything balanced while you're at it.
Old Apr 14, 2007, 06:04 PM
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well this sucks, ive already ordered my standard size pistons...damn
Old Apr 14, 2007, 06:23 PM
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Well, as long as you don't have to bore the block and it's just a light hone you will probably be all right. Did you mic the bores or where you just guessing everything was fine?

Generally I wouldn't order any internals until you know what you are going to need for machine work.
Old Apr 14, 2007, 07:40 PM
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You can have the bores checked for size when you get the block, and should. They should be checked for size and roundness in a number of locations in each bore. If you want to go .020 oversize, you would order the pistons and then your machine shop will bore each cylinder to the piston that is to be used in that bore. You DO NOT bore the block and then order the pistons

Generally, the machine shop time and cost is a small proportion of the total cost of a new motor. You'd be much better off to have someone who knows that they are doing with 4g63s in particular advise you and build the motor if you are not very familiar with your way around the motor and the various important things that need to be done.
Old Apr 14, 2007, 08:54 PM
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Cool

Originally Posted by Steve@NoLimitmotors
So I blew the rods right out of my block 2 weeks ago due to impatience and I had to find a new motor. I did find one and its on the way to me now. It has about 9100 miles on it. I'm contemplating how to build it now and I'm really up in there of how to do it.

On one hand alot of people say that dropping pistons/rods in with a light hone should be no problem on a motor with such low mileage. The motor is already out of the car but this would require no change in bearings, no machine work, etc...

On the other hand some people to say to just bring it to a machine shop and have them go over it with a fine tooth comb, verifying everything is in the spec it should be.

I really cant decide on which way to do it. I have wiseco's, eagles, arp head studs, supertech valves, springs and retainers all on the way.

The motor is already out so thats making me lean more towards bringing it to the machine shop, i'd rather not bore it out though.

let me know what u guys think
im having a small block chevy stoker engine build right now for a street rod. 600hp /600tq. everything is out at the machine shop and is being checked, cleaned, mic'd, balanced, deburred, etc. it makes everything run evenly across all cylinders.

If you plan on revving that thing to 9k, youd better make sure everything is balanced correctly. harmonics are a biznitchhh...they can wipe your crank, and rod bearings reeealll quick if something is amiss.

since it is already out of the car, you might as well make sure the alignment of the crank is good. you can have them check the crank line and hone it to a tighter tolerance. remove the balance shafts might not be a bad idea either. its already at the shop, have them check EVERYTHING.

since you also purchased high quality pistons, rods, valves, etc. why not take the time to make SURE everything is balanced correctly?? it will not only rev better, but it will also last longer. by having one person take the time to make sure everything is precisely balanced, mic'd, and fitted, you will have a better performing engine than the rest. you also fit the pistons and ring to that one particular cylinder. better ring seal, unlike mitsu that has a certain "tolerance" and lets them go down the line. take the time to make those critical measurements and you have one better than the next competitor.

take the time and have it checked. like one other person said, you dont know how it was treated.

good luck.
Old Apr 14, 2007, 09:47 PM
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I would suggest you consider a Buschur short block - I have had a lot of success with mine and i know John Sherherd went 7's with his

Why re-invent the wheel ?
Old Apr 14, 2007, 09:56 PM
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I agree with pretty much everything, everyone's been saying. Since the motor's already out of the car, just get the machine work done. It's a small, or relatively small, price to pay for the added insurance that it's gonna stay together.
Old Apr 15, 2007, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by CO_VR4
You can have the bores checked for size when you get the block, and should. They should be checked for size and roundness in a number of locations in each bore. If you want to go .020 oversize, you would order the pistons and then your machine shop will bore each cylinder to the piston that is to be used in that bore. You DO NOT bore the block and then order the pistons
That is what I meant. I just didn't get it out right. Damn allergy medicines f*ck me up.

You definitely shouldn't order pistons until you know if you have to go oversized or not. Then give them to the machine shop.

Last edited by hotrod2448; Apr 15, 2007 at 05:56 AM.



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