zx6r

Checked the oil 2 nights ago and it was at about 3/4 between the min and max mark. Mileage at that time about 3000 miles. Just been on a ***** to the wall run down to palomar and now it's at 1/4 between the min and max marks ! Mileage now about 3400.

I remember checking at the 600 and 1000 mile mark, and it was on the full mark both times. Didn't check since then until 2 nights ago when I read this thread.

It seems my Evo has started drinking the oil, but I am inclined to believe it's the hard driving I've done today. Will keep an eye on things from now on, and I'm hoping it will calm down when my driving calms down.

jfh

iTrader: (38)

Some recommendations from the link listed below:

Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems.

The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best.

AMSOIL can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40 with no viscosity index improvers...Mobil 1 uses no viscosity improvers in their 5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30. Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are appropriate for your vehicle.

The absence of viscosity index improvers (polymers) is probably the main reason dealers are encouraged to recommend Mobile 1 5W-30 and 10W-30 products. AMSOIL 15W-40 is probably better suited to the temperatuire ranges we normally see.

More than you ever wanted to know about oil

leonard_shelby

iTrader: (1)

My EVO was about 1/2 a qt over full when new, in the first 3K it used that 1/2 qt and has not used a drop since

boostedwrx

iTrader: (27)

Cladius:

After reading all of your posts now about the RS 10w60 I think I'll switch over to that. Its the only oil certified for the E46 M3 or whatever I was reading... I'll go visit the Beemer dealership on Monday!

So far after my recent oil change (Amsoil 10w30) I've gone about 100 miles and now noticeable oil has been consumed.

Cladius, also, will the 10w60 be ok for the winter? I assume with the "10" rating it should be, it just take longer for me to warm my car up..?

boostedwrx

iTrader: (27)

I'm in Seattle and in the winter the temps usually get close to 30 degrees F.

boostedwrx

iTrader: (27)

Update:

After 300 very hard miles since last oil change my EVO has not ate a drop. I'll keep a close eye on it and see when and if it eats some oil.

I still plan to buy some RS 10w60 from the BWM stealerships for $11.xx a Liter! Just dont know if I should put it in before or after my dyno session...

zx6r

I always check it in the same place - that is my garage, which is a level surface. Time I check varies, I know the best time is first thing in the morning when it's cold. But I never have time then, so it's usually an hour or more since I have driven it. I don't think the temperature of the oil is making the difference in levels I am seeing. The engine is not leaking either as there is no oil on my garage floor.

boostedwrx

iTrader: (27)

My oil checkage summary has always been very accurate for me. It goes like this:

Mob into town to get some 94 (I feel bad for you Californians hehe), while gas is pumping I pop the hood, let tank fill up then...

-Check the oil for the first time. The oil level on ONE side of the dipstick is usually almost all the way to the top of the full mark while the OTHER side of the dipstick is slightly lower than the other side of the dipstick which was still a tad lower than the full mark.

-I'll wait another minute and then check it again. By this time the oil one one side of the dipstick is just a c*nt hair above the full mark while the other side is exactly on the full mark or just a c*nt hair below it. If this is the case I know I have my oil level perfect.

-And just because Im real **** and I want to make sure I dont have too much oil in, I'll check it when its cold in the morning. I usually always get the same result as when I wait another minute and check it again at the pumps the night before!

brads

Man if you're using that much oil, it's probably the turbo!.. high boost causes oil to squeeze through the turboshaft seals and burn up in the exhaust side and motor/compressor side!.... The turbo rides on a cushion of oil and when I was pushing it hard on my mazda it used to push oil past those seals and burn up!

boostedwrx

iTrader: (27)

Hmm after 400 miles now it used just a drop...

Im hoping once I pass the 3000 miles threshold it wont burn a drop of oil...

I still havent switched to 10w60.

Can changing your oil too frequently have any negative effects besides your pocket book? Ive prolly changed my oil 4 times in 2400 miles hehe...

donutmonkey

Seems I burned up about a half quart in the first 1200 miles. Changed the oil, filter, and crush washer at 1200 and it has burned less than another half at about 2500 miles but here is the weird thing.

Has anyone experienced different readings when you flip the dipstick 180 degrees? Try it. Put it so the "engine" label reads rightside up, and then again when it reads upside down. You see the same reading? I don't. Rightside reading I see slightly below the upper line, upside I see right on the upper line. Stone cold in-the-driveway reading.

I broke in the car with normal and varied rpm driving under 5000 rpm for the first 600 miles and then drove the car as it should be driven from there. Only Mobil1 used.

Thoe99

iTrader: (25)

Why not 10w30? What grade would you recommend then?