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My First Tune @ DSG

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Old May 20, 2007 | 05:07 PM
  #31  
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Boost leak test tomorrow hopefully... I tightened down all my IC clamps today and no difference.

For refernce, EvoScan is now showing 290whp... which is probably in line with 262whp on the DD. I just need to get back to EvoScan showing 330whp!!!
Old May 20, 2007 | 08:43 PM
  #32  
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Just a few random thoughts. 125 is low, but since all cylinders are the same, the gauge or the test is suspect IMO. The oil in the cylinder trick won't do much unless you make a specific effort to get it on the cylinder walls (dished pistons just hold all the oil).

It's also not uncommon to have a good tune knock somewhat on a full drag pull, especially in the higher gears where you've built up some heat. I have always been able to run a more aggressive tune on a third gear pull than a full drag run.
Old May 21, 2007 | 05:25 AM
  #33  
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I've been racking my brain over what the problem could be... I want to know...

Is there any way in the world that perhaps when I put on my new rims/tires, the added weight is reducing WHP ???

I mean, my 17x9 A-Tech Finalspeed w/ RT-615s are HEAVY... 43+lbs heavy. Compared to my stock Enkei's with Hankook Icebears, I would estimate they are 10-15lbs heavier per wheel.

Could that account for 40whp loss ?

Last edited by recompile; May 21, 2007 at 05:39 AM.
Old May 21, 2007 | 05:51 AM
  #34  
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Maybe another case of phantom knock. Have any mechanical components been installed in the engine bay that may have become loose and now rattling at all? Are you using quality gas? I use Shell or Mobile exclusively now because everthing else around here is too inconsistent. Its probably something simple. How does the car run under normal conditions like regular driving and cruising?
Old May 21, 2007 | 05:51 AM
  #35  
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Instead of racking your brain, do some diagnostic checks. Boost leak test, compression test with a different gauge, leakdown test, check your plugs.
Old May 21, 2007 | 06:40 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Dennis F
Instead of racking your brain, do some diagnostic checks. Boost leak test, compression test with a different gauge, leakdown test, check your plugs.
Compression test - Passed
Plugs - Replaced & look good
Boost leak test - Coming this afternoon
Old May 21, 2007 | 06:41 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by NoTec
Maybe another case of phantom knock. Have any mechanical components been installed in the engine bay that may have become loose and now rattling at all? Are you using quality gas? I use Shell or Mobile exclusively now because everthing else around here is too inconsistent. Its probably something simple. How does the car run under normal conditions like regular driving and cruising?
Gas is good... I've tried 93 from different stations, I prefer Shell. I also run Torco accelerator, so I'm running 23psi with 0 knock.

The car runs fine... sounds fine... it's smooth... but power won't ramp up. I'll put my stock wheels on today and see what happens
Old May 21, 2007 | 07:09 AM
  #38  
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im also curious to see how your boost leak test comes out. maybe isnt holding? torque clamp all around maybe in order too.
Old May 21, 2007 | 04:39 PM
  #39  
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Well I was completely wrong about the wheels/tires... my current setup is actually 1lb lighter than my stock Enkeis with the snows on them...

Boost leak test time
Old May 21, 2007 | 04:52 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by ShamelessCookie
Compression test - Passed
Plugs - Replaced & look good
Boost leak test - Coming this afternoon

125 is not a pass. Read the FSM and see what it should be. I am willing to bet your compression is fine and your gauge is bad however.
Old May 21, 2007 | 05:14 PM
  #41  
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Well my leak tester sucks and it was leaking itself, so the test can't be done....

But I did get 20 pounds into the system and didn't hear anything (other than the cap I made)
Old May 21, 2007 | 06:59 PM
  #42  
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a better way to find leaks.....

Sometimes you cant hear the leaks. What i do is make up a dishsoap /water solution amd spray all the joints , hoses, and pipes with it. Anything that leaks will make bubbles nicely.

This is also great for finding those small boost leaks causing taper.

Milburn
Old May 21, 2007 | 06:59 PM
  #43  
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a better way to find leaks.....

Sometimes you cant hear the leaks. What i do is make up a dishsoap /water solution amd spray all the joints , hoses, and pipes with it. Anything that leaks will make bubbles nicely.

This is also great for finding those small boost leaks causing taper.

Milburn
Old May 21, 2007 | 07:05 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by ShamelessCookie
Well my leak tester sucks and it was leaking itself, so the test can't be done....

But I did get 20 pounds into the system and didn't hear anything (other than the cap I made)
I wish that there was something easy I could point out to you...Unfortunately, if that boost leak test doesn't prove something to be leaking, I'm lost for ideas...Good luck to you, fluctuating power like that seems odd...If not a leak, perhaps transmission-related issues...I'm shot for ideas, if you can't figure it out put the stock parts on and go in for maintenance...
-Austin
Old May 22, 2007 | 12:34 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by xX v0oDo0 Xx
I wish that there was something easy I could point out to you...Unfortunately, if that boost leak test doesn't prove something to be leaking, I'm lost for ideas...Good luck to you, fluctuating power like that seems odd...If not a leak, perhaps transmission-related issues...I'm shot for ideas, if you can't figure it out put the stock parts on and go in for maintenance...
-Austin
Hey, Austin, you don't have to sign your name on every post. If you really want everyone to know your name is Austin, then put it in your sig so it doesn't always get included in quotes.

Cookie, get the boost leak test done and use soapy water.


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