Breaking in an engine.....
Dec 31, 2007, 07:38 AM
#31
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Hey dave,
Great write up!
If I wanted to get my 6bolt built, and already have parts for it, Can I still send it to you to get the work done? And how much would it cost???
Thanks,
Dan
Great write up!
If I wanted to get my 6bolt built, and already have parts for it, Can I still send it to you to get the work done? And how much would it cost???
Thanks,
Dan
Jan 1, 2008, 07:35 AM
#33
I'm no professional but we normally stick non synthetic for the first 1k miles and then switch back to the synthetic but never get on it hard with the non syn. in the engine. Im sure it wouldnt hurt it, but making sure everything seats correctly is the only reason I would assume someone wouldnt want to nail it after just droping a built motor in.
Jan 1, 2008, 08:13 AM
#34
doesnt breaking in ur engine make for it to last longer. i was always told ur car will run a lot stronger if u drive it hard from the beggining. just curiouse cuz i always drive my cars hard from when i first get it. iv havent had one problem with either of my cars. i dont about the breaking in making ur engine last longer cuz i cant keep a car for more then 50k miles on it lol.
Jan 1, 2008, 10:43 AM
#36
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David, I got your motor coming on the way and I was thinking of using non-synthetic oil when I got it. I was going to road tune it at 20-26 PSI to configure the low boost with JestR. Once we got back to our side of town I was going to turn the Meth on and high boost and run the **** out of it. after that was done I was going to change the oil and leave it non-synthetic for another 500 miles After that I was going to go back on synthetic Mobil one. Is that something you recommend?
Jan 1, 2008, 12:33 PM
#37
Here is some information I want to get out there.
The 4g63 is not a small block Chevy. You do NOT crank it with the fuel disconnected or the ignition unplugged to prime the oiling system. If you truly wanted to try and prime the oiling system before starting a new engine you would need to leave the timing belt off and crank the oil pump seperately. Same thing if you DID have a small block Chevy, you'd spin the oil pump through the distributor hole.
This next stuff applies to OUR ENGINES. I don't care about some other shop or some other machine shop that did YOUR work. Don't ask as I could care less.
For our engines. IF you put your head on, timed it etc. and installed the engine in your car AND you have everything exactly right, the engine should start and run almost immediately after trying to start it. When it does hold the engine at around 1500-2000 rpm and let it stay there. Check it for leaks while it is doing this, check it for anything out of the ordinary. If you are using a standalone check the AFR's, look at the knock count etc. Dial in your AFR's a little so it is where it needs to be to run at this RPM. Hopefully you have a map that is right in the first place and you can just let it run. While the car is warming up the lifters will quiet down as the oil pressure builds and the air gets out of the lifters. Check the coolant, watch the coolant temps.
DO NOT just crank the engine to attempt to build oil pressure, it WILL BUILD INSTANTLY IF THE CAR STARTS.
ALL of our engines are built/assembled with a special lube. It is very sticky. I basically fill the crank shaft with it, so there is quite a bit of lube there and everything is very well coated. The engine could probably actually run with NO oil in it for a few minutes with no damage, we don't want that obviously.
Point is to TRIPLE check every single thing on the car first and then it should start instantly and run.
Once you are sure there are no leaks of any type and everything is tight and triple checked again you can either start some low throttle tuning or go for a drive.
As long as everything is 100% I could care less about a break in. Engines built here/assembled here and installed here are broken in on the dyno about 90% of the time. I have maps perfected for any combination we have. So the car is checked, loaded on the dyno. The idle, part throttle tuning is gone over and a few miles are put on the car at light loads to make sure it runs great and the AFR's are good. I do all the fuel mileage calibrations right on the dyno too. When this is done, the car is looked over again and then the tuning at low boost levels (20 psi or whatever) is done. I generally do the pump gas tunes first so the boost levels are lowest. As soon as they are done then the car is turned up and tuned on race gas if that is part of the build.
It is nothing to have a car with less than 10 miles on it at 40 psi of boost and 10,000 rpm. If it is going to fail then it is going to fail at that point and running it for 2,000 miles (whatever) easy is not going to change that. Running an engine for 2,000 miles to break it in is complete BS. It's most companies ways of getting you to take 6 months to be ready to run the car hard and by then they hope the warranty is over.
The 4g63 is not a small block Chevy. You do NOT crank it with the fuel disconnected or the ignition unplugged to prime the oiling system. If you truly wanted to try and prime the oiling system before starting a new engine you would need to leave the timing belt off and crank the oil pump seperately. Same thing if you DID have a small block Chevy, you'd spin the oil pump through the distributor hole.
This next stuff applies to OUR ENGINES. I don't care about some other shop or some other machine shop that did YOUR work. Don't ask as I could care less.
For our engines. IF you put your head on, timed it etc. and installed the engine in your car AND you have everything exactly right, the engine should start and run almost immediately after trying to start it. When it does hold the engine at around 1500-2000 rpm and let it stay there. Check it for leaks while it is doing this, check it for anything out of the ordinary. If you are using a standalone check the AFR's, look at the knock count etc. Dial in your AFR's a little so it is where it needs to be to run at this RPM. Hopefully you have a map that is right in the first place and you can just let it run. While the car is warming up the lifters will quiet down as the oil pressure builds and the air gets out of the lifters. Check the coolant, watch the coolant temps.
DO NOT just crank the engine to attempt to build oil pressure, it WILL BUILD INSTANTLY IF THE CAR STARTS.
ALL of our engines are built/assembled with a special lube. It is very sticky. I basically fill the crank shaft with it, so there is quite a bit of lube there and everything is very well coated. The engine could probably actually run with NO oil in it for a few minutes with no damage, we don't want that obviously.
Point is to TRIPLE check every single thing on the car first and then it should start instantly and run.
Once you are sure there are no leaks of any type and everything is tight and triple checked again you can either start some low throttle tuning or go for a drive.
As long as everything is 100% I could care less about a break in. Engines built here/assembled here and installed here are broken in on the dyno about 90% of the time. I have maps perfected for any combination we have. So the car is checked, loaded on the dyno. The idle, part throttle tuning is gone over and a few miles are put on the car at light loads to make sure it runs great and the AFR's are good. I do all the fuel mileage calibrations right on the dyno too. When this is done, the car is looked over again and then the tuning at low boost levels (20 psi or whatever) is done. I generally do the pump gas tunes first so the boost levels are lowest. As soon as they are done then the car is turned up and tuned on race gas if that is part of the build.
It is nothing to have a car with less than 10 miles on it at 40 psi of boost and 10,000 rpm. If it is going to fail then it is going to fail at that point and running it for 2,000 miles (whatever) easy is not going to change that. Running an engine for 2,000 miles to break it in is complete BS. It's most companies ways of getting you to take 6 months to be ready to run the car hard and by then they hope the warranty is over.
Way to tell it like it is Mr. B. Can't wait to get some work done by you.
Jan 1, 2008, 04:35 PM
#38
lilrico, next time you talk to the guys at the shop just order a case of oil from us and a few oil filters.
Yes, you can run the engine on lower boost and tune it on pump first and then at around 500 miles do an oil change, sounds like a fine plan.
Yes, you can run the engine on lower boost and tune it on pump first and then at around 500 miles do an oil change, sounds like a fine plan.
Jan 1, 2008, 10:41 PM
#42
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2WZ9lrfDqQ
.
Jan 1, 2008, 10:46 PM
#44
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o yea, exotic. Your right I mean for an exotic, yea the 997 holds it down, it will beat the lamborginis, prob all ferraris short of an enzo, etc...
But best bang for buck performance wise, I think are the:
Z06-1
Evo 9-2
SRT4-3
I think those 3 cars are the best deals you can get for the money and for only a little bit more money (relatively to price of the car) you can get SOOO much out of them
But best bang for buck performance wise, I think are the:
Z06-1
Evo 9-2
SRT4-3
I think those 3 cars are the best deals you can get for the money and for only a little bit more money (relatively to price of the car) you can get SOOO much out of them
