umiami80

iTrader: (1)

Again I wish that these Reflashes offered more then just a new fuel map and 20PSI to the top. If this is all then I will go with a SAFCII as I can run bigger injectors down the line and fine tune my car and the timing will follow.

These reflashes should include a launching rev limiter, so you can floor it at the line and the revs will go to say 5500RPMS and stick there, then you just dump the clutch and away you go, no drama and much easier launches.


ALSO every reflash should include a power shifting option so if you are running through the gears, you NEVER have to lift off the throttle to ****, so the turbo is CONSTANTLY SPOOLED (why automatic supras are faster then the 6-speed, look up grand national) and you will pick up about a half second in the 1/4 mile. It works as you run 1st gear to redline, keep you foot on the gas, hit the clutch, the RPMS autmatically drop to whatever 2nd gear hits at 40MPH at WOT, which is probably 4500-5000 RPMS, let go of the clutch, done, rinse, wash, repeat and you have a way faster car is the turbo is allways spooled, and you spend less timing shifting.

Raise the rev limiter to 8000, 8500 with cams.

There are many more mods you can program, but these three I feel are manditory if you are going to do an ECU swap.

shiv@vishnu

iTrader: (20)

Has anyone documented any changes in boost pressures/patterns when running a remapped ECU?

shiv

cary

what would you need that for? you're supposed to keep your foot floored the whole time anyway.

Zeus

iTrader: (66)

Thought we already discussed in several other threads that this isn't the world of Hondata? Works is not a drag race team the last time I checked... So I doubt they are even interested in testing such things... Then again, who knows?

evo1

Well hopefully you opt to be a bit more competitive "price-wise." Granted, your products are some of the best in regard to overall qaulity & performance but prices are also probably some of the highest I have seen the industry. I will not doubt shiv, that your turbo back is one of the finest avail., but at $1500 I find it difficult to believe that it will outperform other fine systems that are under a grand. Sorry ...

Zeus

iTrader: (66)

Not directed at Shiv, but I won't pay more than about $850 for a full turbo back (read Ultimate)... and that is really jacking with my morals... as that's way too got damn expensive as it is. The whole import comunity has been ***-raping the consumer since the early 90's.

the money might be better spent on a used TIG welder, lessons, supplies, materials, and a little effort of my own... Then do my own intercooler hard pipe kit as well.

shiv@vishnu

iTrader: (20)

The ECU remap will cost $400-500 depending on the presence of a few features. Our signature exhaust series have always been on the expensive side due to manufacturing and material costs. There is no cost cutting involved in its design. And it's designed to outlast the car. Our non-signature exhausts series, as in the case with our Subaru offerings, will be more price competitive with other offerings while still retaining quality and longevity.

Cheers,
shiv

PS. If price is the only considering, one can have a full exhaust put together at a muffler shop for $400.

umiami80

iTrader: (1)

[quote]what would you need that for? you're supposed to keep your foot floored the whole time anyway. [quote]

Yeah and then you bounce off teh rev limiter and the gears are not matched causing to much clutch drama and un needed drive train beatings, matched revs are much better.

We have never discussed this, and certainly not several times. Honda data? You can program this in the ecu, any credible tuner shop should be able too do so. Even put in an option so that at WOT the A/C cuts out. I don't see any reason to change my ECU unless these are offered as options. It can be done on any ecu, it has been done on DSM's for years and their fuel and map systems are almost identical. This should not be a problem and should be offered.

Shawn Glass

iTrader: (8)

Man, where do I start??

First off let me say I like a lot of the parts RMR has produced thus far for the EVO. Their downpipe, lower tie bar, gauge pod, etc. are well made products imo. However their installation and customer service quality is EXTREMELY lacking. I spoke with Eric there quite a number of times before throwing caution to the wind and going with RMR to fully mod my EVO 8. We decided on what mods would be istalled, etc. Here is a list of what they did.

HKS GT2835 turbo kit
HKS 272/272 cams
Clutchnet clutch disc
RMR IC piping
RMR Induction Pipe
RMR Turbo back exhaust (test pipe)
Pruven FMIC kit
ECU Reflash
GReddy EGT
Power Boost gauge/controller
PWR Radiator
Tein Flex coilovers w/EDFC
Cusco rear sway bar
Cusco rear strut tower bar

Eric also wanted to use my car as a guinea pig for their reflash programming. I agreed, since I was told the guy doing the programming was top notch, etc.

Here are the issues I've encountered:

ECU - They put my car on a dyno and reflashed the ecu, supposedly tuning the car for the mods I have, etc. Found out the other day when I took the car to Shiv's that it had detonation at idle and 50 degrees of timing advance at 1700 rpms!!! WTF? I had Shiv speak directly to Blair while I was there. RMR's solution? Ship them the ecu overnight and they will reflash it back to stock Shiv couldn't do any tuning on my car at all in the state the ecu was in. I get the ecu back today and put it in my car, it wont idle at all now with my foot off the gas. It dies if I keep my foot on the gas at 1500 rpms, wtf? Their response, well Tadashi (or whatever his name is) builds race cars for big motorsports companies. If that's the case why the f*ck cant he get some code right in my ECU?? Oh yeah, it cost me $200 for shiv to diagnose the problem with the ecu and $30 to overnight it down to RMR, when asked if I would be reimbursed for it, "uh, no, you didn't pay for the mod so we aren't going to reimburse you". Which is fine if the F'IN mod worked!

Clutch - I went with their recommendation regarding the upgraded clutch. They offer a 6 puck sprung hub clutch disc. I was told it would engage like stock. When I picked up the car the clutch felt "weird" in the way it engaged, but I figured it was something I needed to adjust to. Well I drove the car back from LA to Sacramento, and when I got into town, I could barely get the car to engage from a stop. The car would buck/shake violently no matter how I feathered the clutch, gave it rpms., etc. It got to the point I couldn't drive the car w/o fear of breaking a motor or tranny mount. I had to take the car to a clutch shop where I had them drive the car to make sure it wasn't just me, they agreed, the car was not driveable in that condition. Called RMR, their response, "well it drove fine when we had it here". I had to speak with Rhys himself to get a friggin refund on the labor and had to source out a new clutch on my own. Went with the Exedy twin plate, issue solved, shifts great with just a bit if chatter in first. Thanks to Buschur for overnighting me one when there wasn't any left in the states.

Cams - Once again per their recommendation I went with the HKS 272's, since they idled like stock. They idle like *** to be exact. Their response? "We dont attribute the rough idle to the cams but rather to the lack of back pressure, not that we know that's the prob for sure, but that's what we think". "Since we had a deadline to meet with your car, we did the best we could to fix the idle, but we ran out of time, sorry, have a nice day."

EGT - I would of never really known I had an issue here unless I had to pull the ECU. First off it was wired like crap, everything was just shoved behind the dash, nothing wire tied, etc. My biggest gripe here is the probe location, it's mounted AFTER the turbo. Now before I go off here, tell me if I'm wrong please? The general consensus I have always heard is it's mounted in the manifold somewhere before the turbo, right? Preferrably in the runner from the cylinder that has the potential to run leanest. I asked them why it was mounted after the turbo and they said it's the proper location and that's where they put the probe on all their race cars. Once again wtf? Anyone?

The most frustrating thing about the work done on my car is that they think everything that was done is fine. That their work is ok, that I'm just being picky. I dont complain unless there is an issue, and there is. I spent 15k, yes 15k there and I feel like I'm treated like a second class customer. I guess what I'm getting at is they don't care. They don't care my new EVO sits in the driveway broken down. Now I have to wait for their ecu programmer guy to get back to me with an ECU reset procedure, since supposedly that's the problem. Can you say lip service? I am so mad now I can barely see straight. Needles to say, I already have a call into my attorney re: the situation. I can tell this is going to get ugly.

I guess this is what I get for believing in a company and their claims, and wanting to be the "fast kid" on the block. All of this might not be so bad if it hadn't cost me 15k and my car was still running, which is isn't.

As far as RMR goes, I think they make great products, but I would not take my car there again if someone paid me. They knew this was my daily driver, and that the work done to it, had to keep the car dependable, which it is the furthest thing from. I'm sure some of you have had good luck with RMR, congrats to you, I haven't and I thought I owe it to all of you to share this. When it comes down to it, they are a company, a business, they exist to make money, which trust me, they did.

weightless

iTrader: (6)

Wow sorry to hear about your whole ordeal w/ RMR. I was a bit upset that our deal didn't work out but that's nothing compared to this mess that you went through. Good luck w/ your car man...

markluuv

iTrader: (1)

Well, that does it for me. that makes two bad ECU reflashes that I have read about from RMR. I thought it would be a hard decision, but now it is easy...... Works here I come!!!!


On second thought, this whole Shiv ECU remap has got my curiosity going. I could use it as a excuse to hold off buying anything for another month

broeli

iTrader: (19)

From the sounds of all the reflash results the Works ecu seems to be the better of the two.

evo1

Sounds nice Shiv .... any approx. idea as to when it will be in its final production stages?

Not to drag this out or sound like an ***, but I'm still missing the logic as to why your sig exhaust will outperform EVERY OTHER evo/wrx system on market ... SINCE it definitely SHOULD considering the price. Your evo exhaust consists of a Magnaflow muffler correct? If this is the case, then it appears that you do not have to construct & manufacture your own muffler design. This small fact should keep some of the costs down. The system is 304 stainless, correct? As we know, so is every other high qaulity exhaust system on the market. Are all of your flanges stainless? That would be a cost addition. Please elaborate in regard to why your system material and manuf costs are so much higher than most of the competiton. Are you sure that your "profit margins" aren't higher too? I can name at least 3-4 "other" systems that are ALSO designed to outlast the car .... yet they are less than 3/4 of your Sig exhaust price. This is not intended as bashing or flaming Shiv, as I highly respect Vishnu for its competitve offerings. However, I'm inquiring about the logic behind its pricing structure -- basically other manuf./tuner's exhaust products vs. Vishnu. I would be grateful if you could provide a more detailed explanation as to why Vishnu feels its turbo back is priced higher than most others, other than a vague explanation in reference to higher material/manuf. costs.

C'mon now SHIV ... your comment BASICALLY speaks for itself -- that you feel some of us are overly concerned with price, and fail to see that we get what we pay for. Actually Shiv, you couldn't be more wrong! I will pay top dollar for quality all day long. I am a TOTAL perfectionist which is most likely the reasoning behind my needing a price explanation here. Visit Meineke? No sir ... I'd keep my stock exhaust set-up before taking the car to midus for a complete 3" non-stainless turbo back that is not mandral bent and falls apart after 2 years due to rust (a little exaggeration but I'll stick w/ the best thank u). Sure an exhaust is mostly hidden under the car, but it is one of the most important mods one can have imo ... and a true enthusiast has to know his/her exhaust is not the weak link. Having junk pipes that fart down the road would make me ill actually! Then again, paying $1500 for your "sig" set-up, while my buddy achieves the same -- if not better performance with an HKS turbo back that retails for under a grand ... and please do NOT compare the WRX HKS dowpipe to the evo HKS downpipe -- the HKS evo downpipe is a true 2.5" downpipe, and it is EXCELLENT quality. No bends ... all stainless including flanges, HKS logo, and the donut is retained for flex. Oh and it's half the price ... granted I believe you sell yours with the high flow cat if I'm not mistaken, which would be nice if this holds true.

Shiv, have you tested the validity of running a 3" downpipe on an evo WITH the stock turbo and less than 350 wheel hp??? Many tests show that a 3" downpipe actually makes less power on an almost stock or lightly modded evo due to a substantial decrease in backpressure -- please DON'T say this is a common misconception because I had to crank my boost up 1-2 psi over stock with my HKS EVC after installing a 3" downpipe, and it made me wonder WTF was up! However, after I swapped it out with the 2.5" HKS downpipe, my car felt slightly more torqey and I didn't have to crank boost as high to get the same effect. Isn't the stock 16G turbine outlet only 2"??? If so, what's the point of going with a 3' downpipe? Unless of course one plans to have the exhaust ready to handles an extreme amount of power if he/she decides to run a larger turbo ... or 350 + at wheels down the road Please don't say that with turbo cars ... the bigger downpipe the better. If a bigger downpipe is ALWAYS BETTER than why aren't we running a 4" downpipe Nah it seems more accurate to say that the larger the turbo, the more the set-up will call for a bigger downpipe??? Shiv these are things that I'd rather hear you expert tuners address & discuss .... instead of about how your 304 stainless is supposedly better than the next guys since it was more expensive in regard to materials, tooling, manuf. Please educate me if I'm wrong ... but wouldn't it be logical to offer 2.5 and 3" downpipes for the evo My personal tests say so ... then again, WTF do I know

Revolutionary

nice post evo1; ill be subscribing to this thread to see what shiv has to say...

shiv@vishnu

iTrader: (20)

Ah, the joys of the internet. I'm in no position to compare our exhaust to other offerings. However, I do encourage others to compare them themselves. Arguing about prices without actually seeing the product in front of you is futile.

When seen, if one does not see where the extra $$ goes, one shouldn't buy it

Regarding exhaust pipe diameter. As far as performance is concered, Neither I nor any turbo engineering I know, see the validity in a running a 2.5" downpipe over a 3.0" downpipe. If you feel that a 2.5" downpipe offered torque advantages over a 3.0" downpipe in an EVO application, there's nothing I can say or anyone I can quote to dissuade you. So let's just leave it at that.

As for ECU remapping, we'll be offering our own remaps in the near future. Just as we have been doing for WRXs for quite some time. We have the in-house load bearing dyno as well as a good deal of mapping experience. Enough experience to know that the currently available ECU remaps (which use the Techtom reflashing system) do not control boost or offer injector scaling. Why? No one seems to know as it works on EVO 7 applications. Our reflashed ECUs will not be available until we can find and unlock these (and a few other) parameters in the factory code. This takes time and, as you can imagine, a whole lot of trial and error testing.

Best Regards,
Shiv