Evo Green Dyno Sheet on 05 Evo with minimal mods
Jun 8, 2007, 08:52 AM
#31
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This is a great example of what to expect without the Buschur stages 1-4.
Someone above said it's all about airflow. Exactly! Let it flow more air with a filter test pipe etc....and we all know that a byproduct of compression is heat, so get a quality FMIC on it and then toss in some C16 for good measure and you'll see the EvoGreen numbers we've all come to expect.
IMO, great example for those that want to hustle up and just buy the turbo thinking that IT is the main power adder. It all works together to move more air.
Jun 8, 2007, 08:55 AM
#32
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Why would you buy a Green turbo and run stock FMIC, piping, no meth, no 02, no manifold. What an idiot. These numbers are not suprising. Could have made those numbers WITHOUT the green for a lot less money.
Jun 8, 2007, 09:53 AM
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Al, you really must review your posts and stop and think before you hit the enter key man.
Jrod, David, and many of us have posted reviews on the Evo Green and all of us agree the turbo is a nice improvement over the stock 16G turbo, VIII or IX.
You "concur" with Jim Patterson statement is a contradiction to JRod, David, Curt, FP, and all of us who know better.
You are here talking about a car with stock air box, pipes, intercooler, a cat, etc.
Come on, be real. You tune them sure, but with this limitations, you are not going to go any where fast.
22 psi and limited mods on a Green is silly.
Mr. Buschur himself says not to even bolt it on until stage 4 and above.
Why even make this post.
Think.
Jrod, David, and many of us have posted reviews on the Evo Green and all of us agree the turbo is a nice improvement over the stock 16G turbo, VIII or IX.
You "concur" with Jim Patterson statement is a contradiction to JRod, David, Curt, FP, and all of us who know better.
You are here talking about a car with stock air box, pipes, intercooler, a cat, etc.
Come on, be real. You tune them sure, but with this limitations, you are not going to go any where fast.
22 psi and limited mods on a Green is silly.
Mr. Buschur himself says not to even bolt it on until stage 4 and above.
Why even make this post.
Think.
Let me qualify and expand on my original comment with more detail
With customers with only a few basic upgrades and a reflash - swapping to a green will result in disappointing dollar to whp realiziation - this is particularly true for pump gas tuned cars
As you start to maximize the stock turbo set up with all the Stage IV upgrades - and a stand alone ecu then you will see a decent gain on the green in the range of 20 - 30 who max increase when running race gas
My point is that going with a larger turbo like a 50 trim may make more sense and yield more whp per dollar than say a green
I have spoken with David Buschur about this many times and he has agreed with me that on cans with mild upgrades - say a Stage I - III - a customer will see better results with other parts BEFORE installing a Green turbo upgrade.
Which I think the green is a great turbo for those on race gas who want maximum power with a stock location turbo, I do feel that there are better options in a bolt on turbo kit from Buschur that make more sense and which will get you a lot more whp for your dollar.
Al
Jun 8, 2007, 09:55 AM
#34
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Al, thanks for the post! Even though there are haters here (wtf guys, relax!) it's still interesting to see someone with this combo of parts hit the rollers! This truly answers the question that so many people ask 'what if I *just* do this and this and not this...i.e. skip a few steps along the modding path that most of us follow...the results are clearly drawn out here: there's more power to be made with more mods! Even an open intake and deleted cat would make quite a difference here I think! Throw in a SS o2 housing and this thing would be making another 30+whp!
Just for reference, I have an 05 Evo w/ all buschur parts: TBE w/ cat, deluxe FMIC kit & all piping, intake pipe, open element filter, walbro pump, and hks 280's. My car made ~295whp on a Dyno dynamics dyno (with 1.0 correction factor).
Just goes to show that if you take shortcuts you'll be shooting yourself in the foot for power. Al, again thanks for the post, good info.
Just for reference, I have an 05 Evo w/ all buschur parts: TBE w/ cat, deluxe FMIC kit & all piping, intake pipe, open element filter, walbro pump, and hks 280's. My car made ~295whp on a Dyno dynamics dyno (with 1.0 correction factor).
Just goes to show that if you take shortcuts you'll be shooting yourself in the foot for power. Al, again thanks for the post, good info.
A turbo charged car is a air pump system, all parts of the chain must be equal or the system will not function efficiently.
The green is a finicky turbo and really starts to out power the stock turbo on cars with a full Stage IV and above and particularly those at race gas boost levels and with a stand alone ecu.
Jun 8, 2007, 09:59 AM
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I cannot get over the fact on how bad the torque dies when u run race gas. As soon as it reaches peak torque at an early rpm which is awesome, it begins to fall on its face. Even with 272 cams it doesnt hold. Hp starts to struggle too, just not as bad. seems like pump and less boost is more efficient.
I realize this car was on minimal mods, but I have seen the same thing happen on full bolt cars.
I have come to realize that you sacrifice top end on a green for a low end accel monster vs laggier mid/top end producing turbos like the gt30 etc.
I realize this car was on minimal mods, but I have seen the same thing happen on full bolt cars.
I have come to realize that you sacrifice top end on a green for a low end accel monster vs laggier mid/top end producing turbos like the gt30 etc.
The turbo is a good one for someone who is road racing or auto cross who wants to mainatin a near stock spool up range and get the most power available - even it it comes at a price premium.
End users must accept that they will not realize these kind of high power numbers UNLESS they have the rest of the supporting mods
It is NOT like a GT35 for example which will hit 500 who with stock fmic and fmic pipes on one dyno pull - a totally different animal
Jun 8, 2007, 10:49 AM
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this is my car that al posted. i wanted to get the green turbo in the car as from what i was reading the back order was becoming longer and longer. the other parts to make it shine will be on their way, inkake, fmic etc... the car runs great and i am enjoying it. thanks al for the tune.
Jun 8, 2007, 11:00 AM
#39
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I personally would suggest a alcohol injection set up to get this car into the higher boost levels wheer this turbo starts to produce
That and a fmic and pipes should make a significant improvement
That and a fmic and pipes should make a significant improvement
Jun 8, 2007, 11:02 AM
#40
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You are 
.
But that is ok. Everyone has an opinion.
My stock turbo made 362/382tq and 11.8@116 . About as good as the best of those you speak off.
My Green makes 442/429tq. Take it from me that been there and done that, the Green is a nice improvement over stock.
. But that is ok. Everyone has an opinion.
My stock turbo made 362/382tq and 11.8@116 . About as good as the best of those you speak off.
My Green makes 442/429tq. Take it from me that been there and done that, the Green is a nice improvement over stock.
Jun 8, 2007, 12:39 PM
#42
Sorry to Hi-jack but...
Other than the 18lbs actuator, what else can i do to combat the taper/lack of power being mentioned by some???
Here are my mods for both pulls:
-K&N Drop-in Air Filter
-Dejon Powerhouse metal intake pipe (Stock airbox)
-Forced Performance EVO Green Turbo (20g-5-IX)
-Dejon Powerhouse Manual Boost Controller
-APS Dual Vent Blow off valve
-Vishnu Cam Gears (-4i/-1e)
-HKS 272i/272e Camshafts
-ARP Headstuds
-FIC 850cc Fuel Injectors dialed in at 713cc
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump
-NGK Iridium -Step colder- Spark Plugs (BPR7EIX) (Gapped at .021)
-Forced Performance Turbo Outlet Pipe
-Greddy V-Spec Intercooler
-Greedy Lower Intercooler Pipe
-AMS 3" Turbo Back Exhaust w/Testpipe
Other than the 18lbs actuator, what else can i do to combat the taper/lack of power being mentioned by some???
Here are my mods for both pulls:
-K&N Drop-in Air Filter
-Dejon Powerhouse metal intake pipe (Stock airbox)
-Forced Performance EVO Green Turbo (20g-5-IX)
-Dejon Powerhouse Manual Boost Controller
-APS Dual Vent Blow off valve
-Vishnu Cam Gears (-4i/-1e)
-HKS 272i/272e Camshafts
-ARP Headstuds
-FIC 850cc Fuel Injectors dialed in at 713cc
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump
-NGK Iridium -Step colder- Spark Plugs (BPR7EIX) (Gapped at .021)
-Forced Performance Turbo Outlet Pipe
-Greddy V-Spec Intercooler
-Greedy Lower Intercooler Pipe
-AMS 3" Turbo Back Exhaust w/Testpipe
Last edited by alan678; Jun 8, 2007 at 12:44 PM.
Jun 8, 2007, 02:32 PM
#44
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Sorry to Hi-jack but...
Other than the 18lbs actuator, what else can i do to combat the taper/lack of power being mentioned by some???
Here are my mods for both pulls:
-K&N Drop-in Air Filter
-Dejon Powerhouse metal intake pipe (Stock airbox)
-Forced Performance EVO Green Turbo (20g-5-IX)
-Dejon Powerhouse Manual Boost Controller
-APS Dual Vent Blow off valve
-Vishnu Cam Gears (-4i/-1e)
-HKS 272i/272e Camshafts
-ARP Headstuds
-FIC 850cc Fuel Injectors dialed in at 713cc
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump
-NGK Iridium -Step colder- Spark Plugs (BPR7EIX) (Gapped at .021)
-Forced Performance Turbo Outlet Pipe
-Greddy V-Spec Intercooler
-Greedy Lower Intercooler Pipe
-AMS 3" Turbo Back Exhaust w/Testpipe
Other than the 18lbs actuator, what else can i do to combat the taper/lack of power being mentioned by some???
Here are my mods for both pulls:
-K&N Drop-in Air Filter
-Dejon Powerhouse metal intake pipe (Stock airbox)
-Forced Performance EVO Green Turbo (20g-5-IX)
-Dejon Powerhouse Manual Boost Controller
-APS Dual Vent Blow off valve
-Vishnu Cam Gears (-4i/-1e)
-HKS 272i/272e Camshafts
-ARP Headstuds
-FIC 850cc Fuel Injectors dialed in at 713cc
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump
-NGK Iridium -Step colder- Spark Plugs (BPR7EIX) (Gapped at .021)
-Forced Performance Turbo Outlet Pipe
-Greddy V-Spec Intercooler
-Greedy Lower Intercooler Pipe
-AMS 3" Turbo Back Exhaust w/Testpipe
The most important thing you can do to aide the small snail in its ability to hold boost is to carefully boost leak test it and make the system as air tight as possible
Most cars I run across have boost leaks which range in severity - a pressurized boost leak test is always a must