Clutch Replacement
Apr 17, 2011, 04:52 PM
#18
The only thing I have to say is after about 10,000 miles it's started to judder at bit on engagement if you don't rev it enough. It only has issues from a stop and it might have something to do with the light flywheel. I'm hoping it doesn't get any worse. I can control it now with a little extra revs and a nice quick engagement.
After doing the light flywheel and doing more research after I would recommend the stock flywheel. Sure the light flywheel revs really quick and reduces overall inertia in the engine/clutch assembly. The drawbacks aren't worth it though.
Launching from 1st is harder with a light flywheel. The engine loses rpms easier on clutch engagement and requires more careful modulation of the throttle to get a good launch. It's harder to drive in slow traffic, parking lots, ect because starting from a stop is just more difficult especially on an aftermarket clutch. Most of the light flywheels are made of chrome moly steel. It's just not the best alloy for a friction surface hence why brakes are not made of it.
The stock flywheel is cheaper, grabbier, more reliable, and easier to drive.
Apr 17, 2011, 05:09 PM
#19
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Yea I had to relearn on how to drive on competition stage 3 and I do rev a little before I start to disengage the clutch. Yea I would say the flywheel has a big.thing to do with it. Even though the streetlite flywheel is as heavy as the stock flywheel most of the weight is in the center of the flywheel and it feels so much more free revving. I can't imagine how it is with a prolite which is a ton lighter than a streetlite
Apr 18, 2011, 08:24 PM
#22
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