Can a stock evo 9 turbo REALLY handle 30psi?
Jul 27, 2007, 07:04 AM
#17
BOV not venting properly.
compressor surge
high egt, overheated thrust. turbine wheel will be grey color.
oil contamination. detonation induced, small particles from rod bearings dont pass through turbo.
Last edited by 94AWDcoupe; Jul 27, 2007 at 07:07 AM.
Jul 27, 2007, 07:08 AM
#18
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It is quite clear the thrust failed first. When a turbine wheel or compressor wheel hits the housing at 100,000 rpm there is a tremendous shaft twisting force. Enough to shear the turbine wheel right off. There are many things that can cause thrust failure.
BOV not venting properly.
compressor surge
high egt, overheated thrust
oil contamination. detonation induced, small particles from rod bearings dont pass through turbo.
BOV not venting properly.
compressor surge
high egt, overheated thrust
oil contamination. detonation induced, small particles from rod bearings dont pass through turbo.
Jul 27, 2007, 09:02 AM
#19
compressor map
Here is your compressor map:
Running 30+ psi on the stock turbo is just inefficient, at best. If you plot the points on the map, you're only going to be able to hold 30 psi til roughly 5000 RPM anyway, before it starts to fall off quickly to low 20's at redline, depending on mods.
Eric
Running 30+ psi on the stock turbo is just inefficient, at best. If you plot the points on the map, you're only going to be able to hold 30 psi til roughly 5000 RPM anyway, before it starts to fall off quickly to low 20's at redline, depending on mods.
Eric
Last edited by l2r99gst; Jul 27, 2007 at 09:06 AM.
Jul 29, 2007, 06:02 PM
#21
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Why would you think 30-31 psi was a good idea? I am trying to see what your thought process is.....The thought of running that much boost is a bad idea....which you have proved a couple of times.
Jul 29, 2007, 06:55 PM
#22
Did you have the turbo rebalanced with the new wheel or did you just assemble it yourself. If you did not have it balanced I would not expect it to last long even at stock boost levels. At 30+psi the wheels could have been spinning at 100,000+ RPM. At those speeds even a small amount of imbalance would produce significant loads and would destroy the turbo in short time.
-Paul
-Paul
Aug 5, 2007, 04:12 AM
#25
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I have yet to take apart the turbo to find out what happened. the rebuild kit is taking for ever to get to me 
but for the mean time, i have removed the waste gate actuator to prevent the turbo from spooling. its been really interesting driving without boost for the last 2 weeks. the great thing is that i have been getting awesome gas mileage!!!
but for the mean time, i have removed the waste gate actuator to prevent the turbo from spooling. its been really interesting driving without boost for the last 2 weeks. the great thing is that i have been getting awesome gas mileage!!!
Nov 14, 2007, 03:28 PM
#26
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I know I am digging up and old thread here, but elhalisf - for the two weeks that you had the TME shaft and turbine wheel, how was it? Was spool drastically improved?
Nov 14, 2007, 04:55 PM
#27
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slower spool actually.
but i did have a minor exhaust leak between the manifold and hotside, and i obviously did something wrong in the rebuild that might have increased friction in the assembly.
But you can DEFINATLEY feel a difference in weight between the two shafts. it was like woah!
but i did have a minor exhaust leak between the manifold and hotside, and i obviously did something wrong in the rebuild that might have increased friction in the assembly.
But you can DEFINATLEY feel a difference in weight between the two shafts. it was like woah!
Nov 14, 2007, 05:21 PM
#29
Faisal,
Congrats on your 11.9 pass in Phoenix, that is moving...
Without further explanation I would directly recommend you to have your turbo balanced.
With turbos running above 180000rpms your naked eye is simply not enough to Ok the install. I sold my Stealth R/T TT to a friend who did the same thing, purchased the rebuilt kit but only lasted a few days.
I know you from being a very very mechanically inclined guy, I give you all the credit in the world because I know you are the type of guy like me but when it comes to turbo stuff I definately will leave it to the professionals that used professional benches to balance the turbo and calibrate them.
As far as runing them to 31psi, I peaked 30-31psi in a few ocasions on my Evo 9 on race gas but the real test was done on the dynos. There isn't much power left above 28psi to be worth the extra heat and stress.
Take care and by the way, How is that catback that I sold you treating you?
Carlos
Congrats on your 11.9 pass in Phoenix, that is moving...
Without further explanation I would directly recommend you to have your turbo balanced. With turbos running above 180000rpms your naked eye is simply not enough to Ok the install. I sold my Stealth R/T TT to a friend who did the same thing, purchased the rebuilt kit but only lasted a few days.
I know you from being a very very mechanically inclined guy, I give you all the credit in the world because I know you are the type of guy like me but when it comes to turbo stuff I definately will leave it to the professionals that used professional benches to balance the turbo and calibrate them.
As far as runing them to 31psi, I peaked 30-31psi in a few ocasions on my Evo 9 on race gas but the real test was done on the dynos. There isn't much power left above 28psi to be worth the extra heat and stress.
Take care and by the way, How is that catback that I sold you treating you?
Carlos
Last edited by fromWRXtoEVO; Nov 14, 2007 at 05:27 PM.
Nov 14, 2007, 05:43 PM
#30
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What i learned is that swaping out the compressor/exhaust blades can be done without balancing, but they MUST come from the same turbo assembly. and when they are installed, they must be lined up the same way. This is what i think was the fault with the TME install. i had only installed the exhaust shaft since my compressor blade was in better shape than the one that came with the TME.
And i think the hks bov might have been part of the issue. there was soooo much flutter and surging during spool up.