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iTrader: (38)

Took a trip to DSG this morning to see how well my on-road tune performed.

This is 93 octane (I only fill up at Shell stations) with no additives, running 4deg at peak torque and 12 at redline. The AFR in this chart is about 0.5 leaner than my LC-1 reads. Mods in my sig.

I'm pretty happy with the results, this being a Dyno Dynamics:

crcain

I've noticed my Innovate read rich by a few tenths as well when compared to an Autronic exhaust gas analyzer with a good sensor. For that reason if I am ever tuning with LC-1 I will target a half point richer than I want to be just in case.

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iTrader: (38)

Well I think the dyno wideband, which goes in the catback, is likely to be reading leaner than actual AFR... especially if there are any minor exhaust leaks allowing air in after the downpipe

Rich EVO MR SE

Good #'s, that's pretty much what I put down on their Dyno.

crcain

If this was common... I don't think it would be common for many of the most precise exhaust gas analyzers (like autronic) to be setup for clamping to the muffler.

Why spend over a thousand dollars on a precise analyzer... if it is common that placement in the muffler is inaccurate?

dUb KllR

is it a mustang dyno?

NoTec

iTrader: (4)

Dyno Dynamics dyno. It says it right on the dyno sheet.

Glad to see your numbers are on target now Chris. Still looks like the curve could be smoothed a little. But it is still lightyears ahead of your last tune. Good job bro.

SickSilverNLow

iTrader: (5)

nice numbers man....good job .

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iTrader: (38)

All I'm saying is, I trust my LC-1. it's placed closer to the stream in the beginning of the cat-back (I'm catless), and the ONLY thing that would make a wideband read too rich is if it was too close to the manifold and getting hammered with gasses.

It is always always always more likely for a wideband to start reading too lean... as is the case if it is really far back in the exhaust, if any leaks exists (even tiny ones), or if the sensor is becoming damaged due to race gas exposure or just long age

crcain

How again does outside air leak INTO an exhaust pipe? If anything it is leaving the exhaust pipe.

I don't have blind faith in the LC-1 because the fact is a) there are sensors alone that cost upwards of $400 usd. b) there are analyzers that cost in excess of $2000 usd.

For those reasons I have to suspect there can be some variation in accuracy when you think that the LC-1 costs about 200 bucks.

Tarmacisback69

iTrader: (4)

i dyno'd 302 awhp yesterday with exhaust manifold, o2 housing, tbe, mbc set at 20 psi, fmic , licp , no tune, it was a dyno day for 3 pulls= 32 dollars

NoTec

iTrader: (4)

Was this on a Dyno Dynamics dyno. If not, it holds no weight here.

SWOLN

iTrader: (6)

What temp was it at the time of your dyno? Humidity ?

Only reason I ask is, I made 325hp and 310 tq at 23 psi, on a mustang dyno. Temp was 90 degrees and 60% humidity. My mods are similar to yours.

nj1266

iTrader: (6)

So what did the tuner say after your amateur tune put down more power than his professional tune? What was the look on his face?

Did he refund you the money? Did he let you dyno for free?

I am not interested in the numbers. I predicted that your tune will be better than his tune in the thread you posted in ECUflash.

I am interested in his reaction. Spill the beans, please.

dan l

iTrader: (3)

I'm probably going to come off like a dick, but honestly I'm not trying to be.

You have more in it. I also have an IX and only have a 3" catback, Joe P MBC at 20psi, and LC1. I'm on stock timing maps because I'm too lazy to touch them, just leaned out the fuel a little and made 315 to the wheels on a dynojet. You *should* be able to run at or near 6 degrees of timing at ~3100 rpm's (your peak torque) and be at 15 degrees at 7000rpm's at 24psi boost. Also you have some good boost at 2800rpm's but your a little lean at that point. Try to get it down to 12:0 AFR when above 12psi boost and below 12.5 or 12.7 AFR when between 5-12psi boost. Then your going rich up top so try to keep it at 12:1 AFR at that point. You start dropping below 12's at about 5500rpm's. The leaness at peak torque will cause knock if you try to run 5-6 degrees of timing at that point so set up your fuel curve first then adjust the timing while keeping an eye on the knock sensor.