HELP Negative effects of Kevlar timing belt?
Sep 24, 2007, 03:26 PM
#16
my experience with aftermarket belts vs. oem belts when used on 24 hour endurance engines, harder / tougher timing belts accelerated the wear on ALL of our gears: cam, oil pump, crank, etc.
the tougher belts would wear through the hard anodizing.
the oem belts last & are readily avalable. for reliability & ease on components, get the oem.
if your looking to get 1 for the bling factor, then get what makes you happier.
FYI, the tensioner is designed around a particular frequency that the oem belts produce, the aftermarket belts mess with this......
ther eis plenty of belt wrap around the 4g63 layout, so i dont think you'll jump a tooth anywhere, but i have seen some extremely crazy stuff with belts while lookingg @ them with a high speed camera & a strobe light @ various engine speeds.
the tougher belts would wear through the hard anodizing.
the oem belts last & are readily avalable. for reliability & ease on components, get the oem.
if your looking to get 1 for the bling factor, then get what makes you happier.
FYI, the tensioner is designed around a particular frequency that the oem belts produce, the aftermarket belts mess with this......
ther eis plenty of belt wrap around the 4g63 layout, so i dont think you'll jump a tooth anywhere, but i have seen some extremely crazy stuff with belts while lookingg @ them with a high speed camera & a strobe light @ various engine speeds.
Sep 25, 2007, 09:36 AM
#17
Dynoflash's oil pump failed by using the wrong viscosity and weight oil. Other cases the main tensioner is way overtightened and autotensioner fully compressed. This is one sure fire way for your oil pump gear to experience excessive strain. I even had a customer install a belt so tight it sounded like a supercharger.
Install parts correctly within spec and use the proper weight oil and you should be trouble free.
Install parts correctly within spec and use the proper weight oil and you should be trouble free.
Sep 25, 2007, 11:53 AM
#18
You would think the OEM autotensioner was engineered to adjust respectively with the OEM belt's characteristics (surface materal, stiffness, thickness), which itself is rather a touchy procedure to adjust properly in the first place. Stock replacement for me - after 50K miles the OEM was still good.
I just changed mine and it took me about a dozen trials before the tensioner was lined up after everything was set. It was about 1 mm off and I said hell with it.
I can't imagine how difficult it would be to line everything up with a belt that is less forgiving and worse, thicker.
I just changed mine and it took me about a dozen trials before the tensioner was lined up after everything was set. It was about 1 mm off and I said hell with it.
I can't imagine how difficult it would be to line everything up with a belt that is less forgiving and worse, thicker.
Sep 25, 2007, 12:24 PM
#19
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Dynoflash's oil pump failed by using the wrong viscosity and weight oil. Other cases the main tensioner is way overtightened and autotensioner fully compressed. This is one sure fire way for your oil pump gear to experience excessive strain. I even had a customer install a belt so tight it sounded like a supercharger.
Install parts correctly within spec and use the proper weight oil and you should be trouble free.
Install parts correctly within spec and use the proper weight oil and you should be trouble free.
Sep 25, 2007, 05:51 PM
#24
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Dynoflash's oil pump failed by using the wrong viscosity and weight oil. Other cases the main tensioner is way overtightened and autotensioner fully compressed. This is one sure fire way for your oil pump gear to experience excessive strain. I even had a customer install a belt so tight it sounded like a supercharger.
Install parts correctly within spec and use the proper weight oil and you should be trouble free.
Install parts correctly within spec and use the proper weight oil and you should be trouble free.
I install the belts all the time. If the proper tension is set then you will not have an issue. After you set tension make sure your pin goes in and out of the tensioner freely. After you do your rotations and let the belt sit for 15 minutes the pin should still go in freely. You can adjust the tension using the special tool on the tensioner pully and as you set it you will be able to hold onto the pin in the tensioner you can feel where the tension is at. When you have found the right tension tighten the pully bolt to about 33 ft lbs if I recall correctly. Yes you can put a torque wrench on the bolt it will require two people to get this all complete.
Sep 25, 2007, 11:33 PM
#29
my experience with aftermarket belts vs. oem belts when used on 24 hour endurance engines, harder / tougher timing belts accelerated the wear on ALL of our gears: cam, oil pump, crank, etc.
the tougher belts would wear through the hard anodizing.
the oem belts last & are readily avalable. for reliability & ease on components, get the oem.
if your looking to get 1 for the bling factor, then get what makes you happier.
FYI, the tensioner is designed around a particular frequency that the oem belts produce, the aftermarket belts mess with this......
ther eis plenty of belt wrap around the 4g63 layout, so i dont think you'll jump a tooth anywhere, but i have seen some extremely crazy stuff with belts while lookingg @ them with a high speed camera & a strobe light @ various engine speeds.
the tougher belts would wear through the hard anodizing.
the oem belts last & are readily avalable. for reliability & ease on components, get the oem.
if your looking to get 1 for the bling factor, then get what makes you happier.
FYI, the tensioner is designed around a particular frequency that the oem belts produce, the aftermarket belts mess with this......
ther eis plenty of belt wrap around the 4g63 layout, so i dont think you'll jump a tooth anywhere, but i have seen some extremely crazy stuff with belts while lookingg @ them with a high speed camera & a strobe light @ various engine speeds.
Sep 26, 2007, 04:23 AM
#30
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RussellM
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