HELP Negative effects of Kevlar timing belt?
Sep 17, 2007, 05:22 PM
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HELP Negative effects of Kevlar timing belt?
I just purchased a kevlar time belt and balance belt. My car is getting a gt35r installed but the shop that is doing it is recommending that i do not replace the timing belt with a kevlar one but with a oem replacement timing belt because supposedly the kevlar timing belt puts unnessasary strain on oil pump belt. Is there any validity to this?
Sep 19, 2007, 02:17 PM
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I only used a kevlar timing belt one time and my oil pump took a dump shortly thereafter
I have had a lot of luck with the stock belt revving to 11,000 rpms many times and making 968 whp
AL
I have had a lot of luck with the stock belt revving to 11,000 rpms many times and making 968 whp
AL
Sep 19, 2007, 02:53 PM
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just put one on mine, can't say for any failures (Short of me getting the lower balance shaft lined up right.. i think. more on this this weekend). My only thoughts on the matter are:
1) The belt doesnt change the tesnsion you're going to be running
2) It did not seem any less flexible than the oem belt that came off
so I'm curious what the basis for this claim is and why other people haven't seen widespread failure if this is true (And if its true then lets get this out in the open).
1) The belt doesnt change the tesnsion you're going to be running
2) It did not seem any less flexible than the oem belt that came off
so I'm curious what the basis for this claim is and why other people haven't seen widespread failure if this is true (And if its true then lets get this out in the open).
Sep 19, 2007, 05:12 PM
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I think people want to get the Kevlar belts to prolong service intervals, but they're forgetting the tensioner, idler, waterpump, and the front main seal.
Yeah, Mitsu says to change some of those every other belt service, but ****, the way some of us drive...
My water pump shaft was already wiggling around and making scratching sounds when I replaced it at 80k. I'd rather just replace it than wait for it to go at the worst possible moment.
Yeah, Mitsu says to change some of those every other belt service, but ****, the way some of us drive...
My water pump shaft was already wiggling around and making scratching sounds when I replaced it at 80k. I'd rather just replace it than wait for it to go at the worst possible moment.
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Sep 24, 2007, 09:57 AM
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I just purchased a kevlar time belt and balance belt. My car is getting a gt35r installed but the shop that is doing it is recommending that i do not replace the timing belt with a kevlar one but with a oem replacement timing belt because supposedly the kevlar timing belt puts unnessasary strain on oil pump belt. Is there any validity to this?
cliff notes:
stay away from kevlar belts, they are way to stiff and cause way too much tension,they will destroy your oil pump!!!
mines did it with less than 700 miles.......
Last edited by nos51; Sep 24, 2007 at 10:21 AM.
Sep 24, 2007, 10:24 AM
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The belt does not put any more strain on anything. The tensioner is what controls belt tension not the belt.
From what I've seen most people who had issues with them also were building their motors and used the wrong stub shaft in their oil pump and that is what caused issues.
I had the Gates one on my car and had no issues at all.
From what I've seen most people who had issues with them also were building their motors and used the wrong stub shaft in their oil pump and that is what caused issues.
I had the Gates one on my car and had no issues at all.
Sep 24, 2007, 10:41 AM
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let me tell you what i just expirienced with my power enterprise kevlar belt.my new motor has aprox. 650 miles,was street tuning the car when i notice smoke coming from under hood.pop to hood and find timing belt SOKED in motor oil,oil is every were.i look under the car to see wtf and see oil dripping like crazy from behind the timing belt cover.well anyways next day take it all apart,find the seal behind the oil pump gear crooked,i am thinking ok cool seal just poped out or something,for some reason i wiggle the shaft for the oil pump gear and it has play like crazy!i look closer and and you can see the shaft has worn the side of the cover from all the strain the belt put on it.i had to replace the entire oil pump assemb.went ahead and threw a stock belt and she is sweet now.btw the belt was properly install it wasnt over tesioned or nothing,it is just to stiff.it feels like a rock compared to the stock belt when you flex it around.
cliff notes:
stay away from kevlar belts, they are way to stiff and cause way too much tension,they will destroy your oil pump!!! mines did it with less than 700 miles.......
cliff notes:
stay away from kevlar belts, they are way to stiff and cause way too much tension,they will destroy your oil pump!!!
mines did it with less than 700 miles.......Ditto - same experience here
Al
Sep 24, 2007, 10:43 AM
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The belt does not put any more strain on anything. The tensioner is what controls belt tension not the belt.
From what I've seen most people who had issues with them also were building their motors and used the wrong stub shaft in their oil pump and that is what caused issues.
I had the Gates one on my car and had no issues at all.
From what I've seen most people who had issues with them also were building their motors and used the wrong stub shaft in their oil pump and that is what caused issues.
I had the Gates one on my car and had no issues at all.
I have never seen a stock on fail so I have no idea why anyone would want to change one
Al
Sep 24, 2007, 02:17 PM
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The belt does not put any more strain on anything. The tensioner is what controls belt tension not the belt.
From what I've seen most people who had issues with them also were building their motors and used the wrong stub shaft in their oil pump and that is what caused issues.
I had the Gates one on my car and had no issues at all.
From what I've seen most people who had issues with them also were building their motors and used the wrong stub shaft in their oil pump and that is what caused issues.
I had the Gates one on my car and had no issues at all.
Sep 24, 2007, 02:45 PM
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I have used kevlar belts on all my DSM's for an eternity.
If you don't preload the tensioner, and then tighten the hell out of it. You won't have the oil pump problem. That is simply what it is. Too much tension.
This same discussion was had a millenia ago with DSM's. Its not the belt, but the guy putting it on that is the problem. If anything the increase in rigidity of the belt helps to alleviate stretch that can throw off your valve timing at high rpm. The kevlar is also oil resistant. So a small oil leak will not balloon your belt teeth and seperate the backing. Using a case hardened B/S elimination stubby is a common sense issue. *any* will not do. Get a good one, or sacrifice your oil pump.
These are not *new* issues gentleman...
Special hardened b/s elimination stubs can be had from overbore.
Same with the lens plugs that are 200x better than the other plugs.
If you don't preload the tensioner, and then tighten the hell out of it. You won't have the oil pump problem. That is simply what it is. Too much tension.
This same discussion was had a millenia ago with DSM's. Its not the belt, but the guy putting it on that is the problem. If anything the increase in rigidity of the belt helps to alleviate stretch that can throw off your valve timing at high rpm. The kevlar is also oil resistant. So a small oil leak will not balloon your belt teeth and seperate the backing. Using a case hardened B/S elimination stubby is a common sense issue. *any* will not do. Get a good one, or sacrifice your oil pump.
These are not *new* issues gentleman...
Special hardened b/s elimination stubs can be had from overbore.
Same with the lens plugs that are 200x better than the other plugs.