Raced, in the cold..oil light randomly comming on..car not boosting/running like shi
#16
How do you know that's an oil leak? Just looks like a dirty undercarriage to me. Put some cardboard down and see if it is dripping for sure... And check your oil levels every day to make sure even with the leak that it has a decent amount left.
Lesson learned the hard way though I hope... I have NEVER been in a car that doesn't say to let it warm up, even a TL and a Lexus SUV, they all say to let the car reach normal operating temps before driving hard. I guess everyone needs the old school S2k limiter that wouldn't let you go into Vtec till the car got hot enough, that's how I got used to it.
Lesson learned the hard way though I hope... I have NEVER been in a car that doesn't say to let it warm up, even a TL and a Lexus SUV, they all say to let the car reach normal operating temps before driving hard. I guess everyone needs the old school S2k limiter that wouldn't let you go into Vtec till the car got hot enough, that's how I got used to it.
#17
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 271
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From: Colorado Springs
How do you know that's an oil leak? Just looks like a dirty undercarriage to me. Put some cardboard down and see if it is dripping for sure... And check your oil levels every day to make sure even with the leak that it has a decent amount left.
Lesson learned the hard way though I hope... I have NEVER been in a car that doesn't say to let it warm up, even a TL and a Lexus SUV, they all say to let the car reach normal operating temps before driving hard. I guess everyone needs the old school S2k limiter that wouldn't let you go into Vtec till the car got hot enough, that's how I got used to it.
Lesson learned the hard way though I hope... I have NEVER been in a car that doesn't say to let it warm up, even a TL and a Lexus SUV, they all say to let the car reach normal operating temps before driving hard. I guess everyone needs the old school S2k limiter that wouldn't let you go into Vtec till the car got hot enough, that's how I got used to it.
#19
What does the oil smell like? It looks like motor oil to me.
I highly doubt it's your trans but probably something above it leaking down. Like someone else said take your intake off and check the blades for any damage, oil, coolant, shaft play.
If it's the turbo I would think you would see some smoke coming out of the exhaust.
I highly doubt it's your trans but probably something above it leaking down. Like someone else said take your intake off and check the blades for any damage, oil, coolant, shaft play.
If it's the turbo I would think you would see some smoke coming out of the exhaust.
#20
An oil leak doesnt cause the problems that your describing. Also, that's a pic of your transfer case so forget about that for now. Check your oil level.. do you have oil in the car? Ok good, forget about oil for now. Check all your charge piping to make sure it's still in place and all hoses are on and tight. Now check your vaccum hoses. Is the car smoking? If you think that you blew it up the easiest way to find out is to do a compression test.
what mods are on the car?
what mods are on the car?
#21
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
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Posts: 271
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From: Colorado Springs
here are the mods.
04
Stroked to 2.3L
Wisco pistons
Eagle rods
Walbro 255lb fuel pump
Knife edged crank
Buddy club cams 264/272
Fidanza cam gears
AEM intake
Turbo Smart electronic boost controler
Forge BOV
SS brake lines
SS clutch line
Brass shifter bushing
Short throw shifter
aftermarket clutch (I THINK its ACT)
SAFC II tuned by Mac in Parker CO
380 awhp
what are the characteristics of a blown engine? the car is not smoking. the oil is low. I have no idea what charge piping is (sorry i'm new to evo's) but i check as many hoses and pipes as i could (the car is on ramps right now) and found nothing loose. whats an easy way of doing a compression test. and no codes are being thrown.
04
Stroked to 2.3L
Wisco pistons
Eagle rods
Walbro 255lb fuel pump
Knife edged crank
Buddy club cams 264/272
Fidanza cam gears
AEM intake
Turbo Smart electronic boost controler
Forge BOV
SS brake lines
SS clutch line
Brass shifter bushing
Short throw shifter
aftermarket clutch (I THINK its ACT)
SAFC II tuned by Mac in Parker CO
380 awhp
what are the characteristics of a blown engine? the car is not smoking. the oil is low. I have no idea what charge piping is (sorry i'm new to evo's) but i check as many hoses and pipes as i could (the car is on ramps right now) and found nothing loose. whats an easy way of doing a compression test. and no codes are being thrown.
#22
An oil leak doesnt cause the problems that your describing. Also, that's a pic of your transfer case so forget about that for now. Check your oil level.. do you have oil in the car? Ok good, forget about oil for now. Check all your charge piping to make sure it's still in place and all hoses are on and tight. Now check your vaccum hoses. Is the car smoking? If you think that you blew it up the easiest way to find out is to do a compression test.
what mods are on the car?
what mods are on the car?
Strange to say the least... if the turbo seals busted you should see some smoke. I would still take off the intake pipe and take a peek inside the turbo. If you can take some decent photos of the engine one of us might spot something.
#24
Why would the charge pipe or vacuum hoses cause the oil light to blink on. The only time I've seen mine on was when I left something loose and the pressure was down.
Strange to say the least... if the turbo seals busted you should see some smoke. I would still take off the intake pipe and take a peek inside the turbo. If you can take some decent photos of the engine one of us might spot something.
Strange to say the least... if the turbo seals busted you should see some smoke. I would still take off the intake pipe and take a peek inside the turbo. If you can take some decent photos of the engine one of us might spot something.
Your charge piping is all of the intercooler pipes. . After re-reading your posts it even sounds more like some piping has come loose or you have a big air leak. This just means your car stalled, and the reason it's stalling is because the engine doesnt know what to do with the air and no vacuum. Car wont make boost either if you have a big air leak. Check all your clamps and all your couplers. I guess if you've checked your intercooler pipes and you dont have a blown coupler or something then that is not the cause but when I blew off my UICP it did almost the same thing except it really wasnt driveable but it would start and idle out and then stall like you described
A compression test will only tell if you have a broken piston, ring etc.. it wont tell you the condition of your bearings.
To do a compression test.. you need a compression tester and a friend (evo plugs are deep in the cylinder you'll need one with a 12" or so hose), you might can borrow one from autozone, remove the spark plug cover and the 2 ignition coils. Remove 1 plug and thread in the compression tester. Hold throttle body WOT and turn car over about 5 or 6 times until the gauge peaks. Write down pressure on the gauge, re-install plug and go to next cylinder and check that one the same way. Once you have all 4 done compare numbers. I'm guessing an Evo VIII should be around 180psi on all 4 with no more than about 20psi difference but I dont know the actual specs. You could search for them.
Last edited by Mr. Evo IX; Sep 26, 2007 at 06:15 AM.
#27
#29
When reading his thread it just sounded like the car stalled completely.. which would cause all the lights to come on like he described (he said, oil, brake, and something else.. like when your car stalls). If he was rolling and in gear it could have started back up. Turn your key to the on position but dont start your car. Are those the lights that come on?
Your charge piping is all of the intercooler pipes. . After re-reading your posts it even sounds more like some piping has come loose or you have a big air leak. This just means your car stalled, and the reason it's stalling is because the engine doesnt know what to do with the air and no vacuum. Car wont make boost either if you have a big air leak. Check all your clamps and all your couplers. I guess if you've checked your intercooler pipes and you dont have a blown coupler or something then that is not the cause but when I blew off my UICP it did almost the same thing except it really wasnt driveable but it would start and idle out and then stall like you described
A compression test will only tell if you have a broken piston, ring etc.. it wont tell you the condition of your bearings.
To do a compression test.. you need a compression tester and a friend (evo plugs are deep in the cylinder you'll need one with a 12" or so hose), you might can borrow one from autozone, remove the spark plug cover and the 2 ignition coils. Remove 1 plug and thread in the compression tester. Hold throttle body WOT and turn car over about 5 or 6 times until the gauge peaks. Write down pressure on the gauge, re-install plug and go to next cylinder and check that one the same way. Once you have all 4 done compare numbers. I'm guessing an Evo VIII should be around 180psi on all 4 with no more than about 20psi difference but I dont know the actual specs. You could search for them.
Your charge piping is all of the intercooler pipes. . After re-reading your posts it even sounds more like some piping has come loose or you have a big air leak. This just means your car stalled, and the reason it's stalling is because the engine doesnt know what to do with the air and no vacuum. Car wont make boost either if you have a big air leak. Check all your clamps and all your couplers. I guess if you've checked your intercooler pipes and you dont have a blown coupler or something then that is not the cause but when I blew off my UICP it did almost the same thing except it really wasnt driveable but it would start and idle out and then stall like you described
A compression test will only tell if you have a broken piston, ring etc.. it wont tell you the condition of your bearings.
To do a compression test.. you need a compression tester and a friend (evo plugs are deep in the cylinder you'll need one with a 12" or so hose), you might can borrow one from autozone, remove the spark plug cover and the 2 ignition coils. Remove 1 plug and thread in the compression tester. Hold throttle body WOT and turn car over about 5 or 6 times until the gauge peaks. Write down pressure on the gauge, re-install plug and go to next cylinder and check that one the same way. Once you have all 4 done compare numbers. I'm guessing an Evo VIII should be around 180psi on all 4 with no more than about 20psi difference but I dont know the actual specs. You could search for them.
symtoms do sound like a boost leak leading to a stall. i know how much this freaked me out when it happened to me the first time. check all the intercooler piping and connections for a leak. if you get no joy I would pay for the tow. dont destroy the whole car over $300. Hope it works out for you.
#30