Ok, I've done a little reading on this stuff. Maybe not enough. But really at this point I'd just like to poll the audience and see what you guys think.

Here's what I got and what I'm trying to do:

05 RS,
Buschur deluxe fmic & piping
forge bov
hallman mbc
HKS 272 cams
walboro 255 pump
Buschur TBE no cat
Innovate WB & gauge
tune

Previous owner had it on buschurs dyno to the tune of 310awhp.

I just ran a 12.61 @ 110 with it 3 days ago.
Car had more in it, but it grenaded a coupler and I had it patched and it was still leaking a bit. And well the stock clutch didn't like 5k rpm launches without cooling for atleast 30 minutes between runs.

The plan is 3 fold.
clutch
drop in piston/rod combo (arps, hg, valve springs/ret)
3076 at about "3/4" of what it can do. (This might change to EvoG)

I sincerely doubt a problem making 400whp on Mahle pistons & pump gas. So I need a clutch that will hold it now and later. Car IS daily driven. I DO drive it like a normal car as much as I can force myself to do. Its hard. It will see the track a few times a month during the season. And/or some spirited street driving.

The exedy gives the impression of being more street friendly.
But doesn't hold as much power as the tilton. I think I'm stuck with the HD here if I want it to last under bigger turbo power later. Can I get away with an SD here? I don't think I can.

I've seen some reliability issues mentioned with the tilton. As in short but rebuildable life span. I was looking at the Ceramatallic/organic one as the one for me here. (yes/no)

I'd like to keep the clutch in the car as much as possible. Whilst having it hold what I need it to hold. I have no interest in shredding single disc clutches to pieces anymore. I've been there done that with the DSM.

What kind of life are you guys seeing out of them?
Or is there another brand/clutch all together I should be looking at?

A little input from you guys running them would be fabulous.
Truly, I could use a little help getting off the fence on this issue.

 

Nobody? Please?

 

I have the Exedy twin HD. Im still stock turbo now but plan on either a green or a 3065 over this winter. The drivability in not bad once broked in. Its a lil grabby when new. It does rattle but not bad in my opinion. I have between 3-4 k on it and tracked it twice so far never a hiccup. I also had a ACT in this car and killed it in 16k. The stock lasted 14k. I have confidence this one will last awhile, even with more power. I also think if you do get a Tilton get the full cerametalic not hybrid organic. Just my opinion.

 

I know someone local who has a 600+whp Evo RS. He's got a tilton clutch. He drives it dailly and the car is a ****ing beast. (It's buschur built with their 37r in it). He doesn't mind the tilton but its honestly just like an on/off switch. It grabs hard and holds, and you can here the clutch chatter from about 7 miles away.

The Exedy twin plate, i feel, is the better clutch for the DD. not as much chatter, Still holds a lot of power, much more streetable, and at a much cheaper price. If I had the extra money for an Exedy Twin, thats what would be going in my car now, but I dont, so I have to settle for something a little cheaper.

my 2 cents

-Nick

 

i have the exedy twin hd. i like it but the chatter to me is pretty loud. it takes a little getting used to but like the other guy said once its broken in its pretty street friendly.

 

A little chatter is ok. The noise is not an issue with me. It could have a fog horn attatched to it every time I push the clutch. IDC. My MAIN concerns are:

Is it a tranny breaker?:

How long will it last: (cause omfg I don't want to be in there fighting the acd every season... I could do that with a single disc for alot less)

And how streetable is it: ( I live in PA. Lots & lots, & LOTS of hills. Pedal pressure isn't really a big deal, but the ability to ride it a little if need be whilst keeping my teeth IN my skull would be great)


Back onto the Tilton, I heard the cermetallic/cerametallic combo is the worst one to get. As the excessive vibration rattles the disc hubs apart on the input shaft.
The organic/cermetallic combo I thought was the wtg.
?

I'm a DSM'er and I'd like to keep some more manners in the Evo than I did in the DSM... but I understand par for the course with this stuff. I have experience with the PTT sintered iron twin disc. Want to talk about grabby? S*** son... that thing could jerk a planet out of orbit if you come off it wrong.

So something between that, and the stock clutch would be fine.
That will stay in there as long as possible. And hold my measly 310awhp now, and 400 some later.

The Evo is simply my sporty daily grind. I'd like it to maintain as much of its thoughtless pleasure to drive charachteristics as possible.

Exedy HD then? or will the tilton Cer/Org combo do it just as well?
Or is there something else I should be looking at?

 

Have you both had any kind of issues with your clutch, pedal enagement etc? I put about 4k on mine and now it is kind of acting up.... Tough to get in to gears, the car HATES engine braking for some reason, real notchy type of gear changes.... Let me know thanks

 

i just swapped out a tilton twin cerametallic for an exedy twin SD & couldnt be happier.

the tilton is fine on the street if you live in a flat area, but getting started on a hill just plain sucks & was ruining the driving experince for me.

dont get me wrong, the tilton is an awesome clutch for what it is, but it is not a good solution for a daily driver if you live in an area with many hills

also, unless you plan on drag racing the SD will hold a 3076 or green fine

 

have you adjusted the clutch actuator rod? cerametallic discs tend to wear quickly for the first 1-2k miles & typically need the clutch adjusted after break in. this is more apparent on twin discs

 

I plan on slipping it just enough to preload the drain train to avoid shock, and coming off the SB around 6k @ full bore 10 times a month in the summer at the track.

I don't think the SD is going to take that.
lol!

Like don't get me wrong, I appreciate the Evo's handling. I just don't care to turn. I like going straight... as fast as possible.

 

lol! yea id say you'll need a bit more than the SD if drag racing is your thing

 

Don't get me wrong. I try to be as responsible as I can with the car as much as possible. But I want something that will absorb some of the abuse of launching it at the track. Trying to slip the stocker off the line a little to avoid shock is just not possible. It overheats and slips to redline. And any single disc clutch will suffer the same fate eventually serving double duty. They just don't have the surface area to distribute the heat load the twins do.

I just want one that won't eat itself up from street driving too. As I've seen with some of the twins exhibiting accelerated wear when being street driven.

How long do the HD's last on average being street driven under moderate power and weekend warrioring?

From what I read on here about the Tilton's they don't seem to last real long no matter what you do to them. ? But are readily rebuildable.

I know every car is different, and so are driving styles. But there has to be basic info on lifespans.

 

If you plan on running the 3076 I'm sure the Exedy HD will hold you fine, I know plenty of guys that are running 3076 here in CO and have the exedy HD and it's fine for them.

 

Yeah i have adjusted it twice, here check this out I posted it today sorry ahead of time for the length....

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=298715

 

You maybe bug one of those guys to get a read on mileage and just a general overview of how much it gets the sh** kicked out of it?

I'd appreciate it bro!

I'm trying to get a lifespan projection going here.