MR Transmission Problems HELP!!
Sep 30, 2007, 03:54 PM
#16
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If your first clutch pedal adjustment worked and it shifted well for a few weeks, that would point to your syncros probably being ok, unless you ground them during those few weeks.
Also if you syncros were bad, pulling out of gear would not be an issue, only going into gear. Hard pulling out is usually clutch not disengaging
You might need a good bleed of the clutch with some fresh fluid (shares the fluid with the brake reservoir)
Twin disc has been known to have some disengagement issues, some have had success buying an clutch pedal extension rod see thread below. Good luck
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...+extension+rod
Also if you syncros were bad, pulling out of gear would not be an issue, only going into gear. Hard pulling out is usually clutch not disengaging
You might need a good bleed of the clutch with some fresh fluid (shares the fluid with the brake reservoir)
Twin disc has been known to have some disengagement issues, some have had success buying an clutch pedal extension rod see thread below. Good luck
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...+extension+rod
Sep 30, 2007, 04:08 PM
#17
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If your first clutch pedal adjustment worked and it shifted well for a few weeks, that would point to your syncros probably being ok, unless you ground them during those few weeks.
Also if you syncros were bad, pulling out of gear would not be an issue, only going into gear. Hard pulling out is usually clutch not disengaging
You might need a good bleed of the clutch with some fresh fluid (shares the fluid with the brake reservoir)
Twin disc has been known to have some disengagement issues, some have had success buying an clutch pedal extension rod see thread below. Good luck
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...+extension+rod
Also if you syncros were bad, pulling out of gear would not be an issue, only going into gear. Hard pulling out is usually clutch not disengaging
You might need a good bleed of the clutch with some fresh fluid (shares the fluid with the brake reservoir)
Twin disc has been known to have some disengagement issues, some have had success buying an clutch pedal extension rod see thread below. Good luck
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...+extension+rod
Sep 30, 2007, 04:26 PM
#18
I'm looking for help and not criticism, I have been searching high and low for help, if you dont have any positive input then dont make a note at all. "Cliff's notes" won't get the whole situation across. Unlike other threads where people ask a million questions because people a vauge on the initial thread I like to be thorough as to not waste anyone's time. I wasn't aware that reading was difficult. That's why if you did read the whole thing I make it a point to apologize at the end for the length.
I will not bother you further.
Sep 30, 2007, 05:42 PM
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If your first clutch pedal adjustment worked and it shifted well for a few weeks, that would point to your syncros probably being ok, unless you ground them during those few weeks.
Also if you syncros were bad, pulling out of gear would not be an issue, only going into gear. Hard pulling out is usually clutch not disengaging
You might need a good bleed of the clutch with some fresh fluid (shares the fluid with the brake reservoir)
Twin disc has been known to have some disengagement issues, some have had success buying an clutch pedal extension rod see thread below. Good luck
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...+extension+rod
Also if you syncros were bad, pulling out of gear would not be an issue, only going into gear. Hard pulling out is usually clutch not disengaging
You might need a good bleed of the clutch with some fresh fluid (shares the fluid with the brake reservoir)
Twin disc has been known to have some disengagement issues, some have had success buying an clutch pedal extension rod see thread below. Good luck
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...+extension+rod
Wow 18 posts and this is the only helpful one! I can't believe some of the posts I've read here about your topic
. Hope you solve this one man. Bleeding it seems like the most logical answer right now being that its one of the easier things you could try before tearing out the trans again. GL.
Sep 30, 2007, 06:24 PM
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Wow 18 posts and this is the only helpful one! I can't believe some of the posts I've read here about your topic . Hope you solve this one man. Bleeding it seems like the most logical answer right now being that its one of the easier things you could try before tearing out the trans again. GL.
. Hope you solve this one man. Bleeding it seems like the most logical answer right now being that its one of the easier things you could try before tearing out the trans again. GL.
Sep 30, 2007, 06:27 PM
#21
Carlos, synchromesh in a 6sp is a no-no. Near instantaneous failure afterwards.
Super multi gear oil diaqueen only...
It may well be that the trans is on its way out. Broddey in this very thread just had the 6 to 5sp conversion completed by TTP.
I have switched to 5sp.
Warrtalon has switched to 5sp.
Its only a matter of time. The trans is only rated to 260ish torque per TRE and nearing 400tq you are on borrowed time.
Super multi gear oil diaqueen only...
It may well be that the trans is on its way out. Broddey in this very thread just had the 6 to 5sp conversion completed by TTP.
I have switched to 5sp.
Warrtalon has switched to 5sp.
Its only a matter of time. The trans is only rated to 260ish torque per TRE and nearing 400tq you are on borrowed time.
Sep 30, 2007, 06:40 PM
#22
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Carlos, synchromesh in a 6sp is a no-no. Near instantaneous failure afterwards.
Super multi gear oil diaqueen only...
It may well be that the trans is on its way out. Broddey in this very thread just had the 6 to 5sp conversion completed by TTP.
I have switched to 5sp.
Warrtalon has switched to 5sp.
Its only a matter of time. The trans is only rated to 260ish torque per TRE and nearing 400tq you are on borrowed time.
Super multi gear oil diaqueen only...
It may well be that the trans is on its way out. Broddey in this very thread just had the 6 to 5sp conversion completed by TTP.
I have switched to 5sp.
Warrtalon has switched to 5sp.
Its only a matter of time. The trans is only rated to 260ish torque per TRE and nearing 400tq you are on borrowed time.
Sep 30, 2007, 06:42 PM
#23
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Carlos, synchromesh in a 6sp is a no-no. Near instantaneous failure afterwards.
Super multi gear oil diaqueen only...
It may well be that the trans is on its way out. Broddey in this very thread just had the 6 to 5sp conversion completed by TTP.
I have switched to 5sp.
Warrtalon has switched to 5sp.
Its only a matter of time. The trans is only rated to 260ish torque per TRE and nearing 400tq you are on borrowed time.
Super multi gear oil diaqueen only...
It may well be that the trans is on its way out. Broddey in this very thread just had the 6 to 5sp conversion completed by TTP.
I have switched to 5sp.
Warrtalon has switched to 5sp.
Its only a matter of time. The trans is only rated to 260ish torque per TRE and nearing 400tq you are on borrowed time.
Sep 30, 2007, 08:31 PM
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I did not criticize. I said i was trying to help but that it was too long. The only criticism is coming from you when insulting me with the "reading" comment. I have much experience with the 6spd, as I bought and still own one of the first MRs on the US shores. I raced it for 2 years before destroying it and then moved on to a 5psd. I have experience to share, but it wasn't worth my time to read such a ridiculously long post.
I will not bother you further.
I will not bother you further.
Sep 30, 2007, 08:50 PM
#27
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First of all, I'd suggest that this post be framed and put on the wall as a testimonial to how good the Evo really is. This car got a thrashing to wear out parts that fast!
You wrote that the dealership changed tranny fluid at clutch time. What did they put in? If they say they put in the correct fluid do they even know what the correct fluid is? I've been to a couple of Mitsu dealerships trying to buy OEM fluids and they tried to sell me everything but.
Have another person work the clutch while you are under and watch how much the piston in the slave cylinder moves. Compare this to another Evo. You may have something wrong with the master or slave cylinders. BTW, I once suggested this to an internet DSM owner and he wrote back asking if the entire transmission was supposed to move when the clutch was depressed.
Buddy, you need some bolts. Weird things happen to clutches - like pieces of the facing coming off and jamming between the plates. Well, you probably know that.
Finally, Mitsu transmissions have never been know for smooth operation like you would expect from any Honda. A little bit of a snip going into gear or having to work the clutch to shift into reverse is normal.
You wrote that the dealership changed tranny fluid at clutch time. What did they put in? If they say they put in the correct fluid do they even know what the correct fluid is? I've been to a couple of Mitsu dealerships trying to buy OEM fluids and they tried to sell me everything but.
Have another person work the clutch while you are under and watch how much the piston in the slave cylinder moves. Compare this to another Evo. You may have something wrong with the master or slave cylinders. BTW, I once suggested this to an internet DSM owner and he wrote back asking if the entire transmission was supposed to move when the clutch was depressed.
Buddy, you need some bolts. Weird things happen to clutches - like pieces of the facing coming off and jamming between the plates. Well, you probably know that. Finally, Mitsu transmissions have never been know for smooth operation like you would expect from any Honda. A little bit of a snip going into gear or having to work the clutch to shift into reverse is normal.
Sep 30, 2007, 09:00 PM
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First of all, I'd suggest that this post be framed and put on the wall as a testimonial to how good the Evo really is. This car got a thrashing to wear out parts that fast!
You wrote that the dealership changed tranny fluid at clutch time. What did they put in? If they say they put in the correct fluid do they even know what the correct fluid is? I've been to a couple of Mitsu dealerships trying to buy OEM fluids and they tried to sell me everything but.
Have another person work the clutch while you are under and watch how much the piston in the slave cylinder moves. Compare this to another Evo. You may have something wrong with the master or slave cylinders. BTW, I once suggested this to an internet DSM owner and he wrote back asking if the entire transmission was supposed to move when the clutch was depressed. Buddy, you need some bolts. Weird things happen to clutches - like pieces of the facing coming off and jamming between the plates. Well, you probably know that.
Finally, Mitsu transmissions have never been know for smooth operation like you would expect from any Honda. A little bit of a snip going into gear or having to work the clutch to shift into reverse is normal.
You wrote that the dealership changed tranny fluid at clutch time. What did they put in? If they say they put in the correct fluid do they even know what the correct fluid is? I've been to a couple of Mitsu dealerships trying to buy OEM fluids and they tried to sell me everything but.
Have another person work the clutch while you are under and watch how much the piston in the slave cylinder moves. Compare this to another Evo. You may have something wrong with the master or slave cylinders. BTW, I once suggested this to an internet DSM owner and he wrote back asking if the entire transmission was supposed to move when the clutch was depressed.
Buddy, you need some bolts. Weird things happen to clutches - like pieces of the facing coming off and jamming between the plates. Well, you probably know that. Finally, Mitsu transmissions have never been know for smooth operation like you would expect from any Honda. A little bit of a snip going into gear or having to work the clutch to shift into reverse is normal.
Oct 1, 2007, 12:29 PM
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One thing I also wanted to mention.
Around my way a dealership will not even consider installing an after market clutch for me. May be the clutch job was botched half the guys dont know what there doing. If you want a stock clutch and flywheel i would let it go for 200 might be worth to have as a backup
Around my way a dealership will not even consider installing an after market clutch for me. May be the clutch job was botched half the guys dont know what there doing. If you want a stock clutch and flywheel i would let it go for 200 might be worth to have as a backup