MR Transmission Problems HELP!!
Sep 30, 2007, 12:45 PM
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MR Transmission Problems HELP!!
Ok, I have spent the past couple of weeks and more recently the past 3 days (Up till 3am last night) looking for information to help me out, I seem to be finding mixed information (Good and bad) and some threads with kind of similar but not 100% identical problems. So since I can't find anyting just like my situation hopefully I can post it and gain some more insight as to what is going on with my car.... Any help is greatly appreciated!
I used to be a tech for Acura and Honda so being boosted and Mitsubishi is totally different to me but I do know a decent amount about cars but the EVIL MR has proved to be a totally different ANIMAL!!!!
I bought my 06 MR from a kid he didnt know how to drive the car (stick that is) from the day he bought it. Inevitably he toasted the clutch within 3k miles. Clutch got replaced but he beat the living hell out of the car. Lauches, sprints from light to light (Which makes absolutely no sense in Boca Raton, FL,.... brakes were done in 8k miles!! and Advans were toast as well). I personally have riden with him a number of times before I bought the car and never heard him grind gears but he may have before I owned the car... Either way I know he drove it rougher than i do by FAR!
Anyways I took it over, I bought the car with about 8k on the Odom. He had a substantial amount of work done to it but never got it tuned, so I eventually got it tuned from TTP etc (see list of parts). Eventually I had to get a new clutch due to slipage within about 10-11k because of new found power. I decided on the Exedy Twin HD set up and got it put in about 4k miles ago and once I had it in it was perfect.
(WPB Mitsubishi put it in for me, the guy who finances my car owned the stealership before it got sold to Schumacher Mitsubishi so I got a good deal on the install. I may be able to go back to him for any problems seeing as how he has the note on my car (leverage) and did the install and they are now a performance shop. This might be my only saving grace)
About a week or two after I noticed that once the car was up to operating temp it wouldn't fully disengage from the gears until the rpms wound down . So after some research (New to the Evo and forum) I found out that I needed to adjust the clutch pedal height up.
So I take it to the stealership (Light House Point, FL) and they do it for me (free, nice to know people there as well.) This seemed to fix it again but only for a few weeks. Then the same problem all over again. So I have been busy starting a new Co etc...and waited a little and babied my car until I was able to get it back to the dealer and got the clutch pedal raised again (Yesterday 9/30/07).
Now, from the first time I got the car the trans felt kind of notchy when you shift from gear to gear, (almost like a clicking noise like in the Fast and Furious movie when shifting from gear to gear but not as pronounced, no grinding)...
Is this normal for the Evo?
When I am sitting still and push the clutch in and move throught the gears the car is reluctant to want to shift really smooth. I have not had the chance to drive any other Evos so I dont know the feel for them when they have not been abused.
Going from 4th to 5th is and has always felt like a real effort and almost feels like it wants to grind itself to death as well or even pop out of gear. Same as 5th to 6th altough it has never ground since I take great care to avoid it. (Which means that I wait for the rpms to come down before pushing it into gear.)
When the car is cold it doesnt even want to get into first or reverse without giving the car a little rev (I guess speed up the syncro), I really try not to drive the car cold but sometimes I run late and really need to split.
Sometimes the car wants to lock me out when down shifting and or engine braking. The only way I can do a quick down shift is to rev match when down shifting so that it doesnt feel like it will grind
The trans feels like it is going out the door, however I have never ground a gear (since I have owned it) and have been really aggrivated with this whole situation.
I dont know what to do from here... I have asked someone who is a reliable source and they sai they and their buddy had the same problem occur at about 4k and that the exedy's get funny around then and just need some rought driving to straighten them out. This just kinda seems a little bit ludicrious to do to a car that I have spent a TON of money on already, and I dont exaclty need to be dropping another $3k from someones ridiculous idea to get things to work properly.
Sorry this is so long but I wanted everyone that reads it to get a good idea of the life of the car and where I am at today (STRESSIN THE @#$% OUT!). Thanks for anything helpful ahead of time!
I used to be a tech for Acura and Honda so being boosted and Mitsubishi is totally different to me but I do know a decent amount about cars but the EVIL MR has proved to be a totally different ANIMAL!!!!
I bought my 06 MR from a kid he didnt know how to drive the car (stick that is) from the day he bought it. Inevitably he toasted the clutch within 3k miles. Clutch got replaced but he beat the living hell out of the car. Lauches, sprints from light to light (Which makes absolutely no sense in Boca Raton, FL,.... brakes were done in 8k miles!! and Advans were toast as well). I personally have riden with him a number of times before I bought the car and never heard him grind gears but he may have before I owned the car... Either way I know he drove it rougher than i do by FAR!
Anyways I took it over, I bought the car with about 8k on the Odom. He had a substantial amount of work done to it but never got it tuned, so I eventually got it tuned from TTP etc (see list of parts). Eventually I had to get a new clutch due to slipage within about 10-11k because of new found power. I decided on the Exedy Twin HD set up and got it put in about 4k miles ago and once I had it in it was perfect.
(WPB Mitsubishi put it in for me, the guy who finances my car owned the stealership before it got sold to Schumacher Mitsubishi so I got a good deal on the install. I may be able to go back to him for any problems seeing as how he has the note on my car (leverage) and did the install and they are now a performance shop. This might be my only saving grace)
About a week or two after I noticed that once the car was up to operating temp it wouldn't fully disengage from the gears until the rpms wound down . So after some research (New to the Evo and forum) I found out that I needed to adjust the clutch pedal height up.
So I take it to the stealership (Light House Point, FL) and they do it for me (free, nice to know people there as well.) This seemed to fix it again but only for a few weeks. Then the same problem all over again. So I have been busy starting a new Co etc...and waited a little and babied my car until I was able to get it back to the dealer and got the clutch pedal raised again (Yesterday 9/30/07).
Now, from the first time I got the car the trans felt kind of notchy when you shift from gear to gear, (almost like a clicking noise like in the Fast and Furious movie when shifting from gear to gear but not as pronounced, no grinding)...
Is this normal for the Evo?
When I am sitting still and push the clutch in and move throught the gears the car is reluctant to want to shift really smooth. I have not had the chance to drive any other Evos so I dont know the feel for them when they have not been abused.
Going from 4th to 5th is and has always felt like a real effort and almost feels like it wants to grind itself to death as well or even pop out of gear. Same as 5th to 6th altough it has never ground since I take great care to avoid it. (Which means that I wait for the rpms to come down before pushing it into gear.)
When the car is cold it doesnt even want to get into first or reverse without giving the car a little rev (I guess speed up the syncro), I really try not to drive the car cold but sometimes I run late and really need to split.
Sometimes the car wants to lock me out when down shifting and or engine braking. The only way I can do a quick down shift is to rev match when down shifting so that it doesnt feel like it will grind
The trans feels like it is going out the door, however I have never ground a gear (since I have owned it) and have been really aggrivated with this whole situation.
I dont know what to do from here... I have asked someone who is a reliable source and they sai they and their buddy had the same problem occur at about 4k and that the exedy's get funny around then and just need some rought driving to straighten them out. This just kinda seems a little bit ludicrious to do to a car that I have spent a TON of money on already, and I dont exaclty need to be dropping another $3k from someones ridiculous idea to get things to work properly.
Sorry this is so long but I wanted everyone that reads it to get a good idea of the life of the car and where I am at today (STRESSIN THE @#$% OUT!). Thanks for anything helpful ahead of time!
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Sep 30, 2007, 02:10 PM
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Quick fix.
Chances are, if the kid was shifting fast, he was slamming the gears around pretty hard. The rubber shifter bushings can deteriorate pretty quickly, causing the shifting to be very stick and notchy.
Aluminum shifter bushings will make the movement of the gates much more precise, but if the synchros are worn, it won't make it easier to get it into and out of gear.
For 27 bucks, its a cheap way to solve a part of the issue.
Chances are, if the kid was shifting fast, he was slamming the gears around pretty hard. The rubber shifter bushings can deteriorate pretty quickly, causing the shifting to be very stick and notchy.
Aluminum shifter bushings will make the movement of the gates much more precise, but if the synchros are worn, it won't make it easier to get it into and out of gear.
For 27 bucks, its a cheap way to solve a part of the issue.
Sep 30, 2007, 02:29 PM
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Let me know what happens I hope that this helps you and then helps me!
Sep 30, 2007, 02:31 PM
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Quick fix.
Chances are, if the kid was shifting fast, he was slamming the gears around pretty hard. The rubber shifter bushings can deteriorate pretty quickly, causing the shifting to be very stick and notchy.
Aluminum shifter bushings will make the movement of the gates much more precise, but if the synchros are worn, it won't make it easier to get it into and out of gear.
For 27 bucks, its a cheap way to solve a part of the issue.
Chances are, if the kid was shifting fast, he was slamming the gears around pretty hard. The rubber shifter bushings can deteriorate pretty quickly, causing the shifting to be very stick and notchy.
Aluminum shifter bushings will make the movement of the gates much more precise, but if the synchros are worn, it won't make it easier to get it into and out of gear.
For 27 bucks, its a cheap way to solve a part of the issue.
Sep 30, 2007, 02:58 PM
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Do not use syncromesh on a mr 6 speed transmission:
Use oem fluids only. You will damage the trans more> When was the fluid last changed? from what i read it sounds like there is defintely some damage there.
You could send it out to schepard and have them look it over and possibly rebuild or may be look into 5 speeds.
Use oem fluids only. You will damage the trans more> When was the fluid last changed? from what i read it sounds like there is defintely some damage there.
You could send it out to schepard and have them look it over and possibly rebuild or may be look into 5 speeds.
Sep 30, 2007, 02:59 PM
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May be you should consider slapping a stock clutch on and see if the problem goes away/ I have a stock clutch and flywheel with 10,000.00 on it i would let go for a couple hundred bucks.
Sep 30, 2007, 03:27 PM
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fluid was changed with the new clutch install about 4k ago, gonna do some work to it this week and see what happens. I dont know really how much damage there could be if it doesnt grind and whine like all the other threads i have read, thats why i put this thread up....
Stocker is something to consider though.... I will let you know if i go that route.
Stocker is something to consider though.... I will let you know if i go that route.
