Anybody do ARP rod bolt "Upgrade" stage 5 Buschur
Oct 29, 2007, 03:10 PM
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Anybody do ARP rod bolt "Upgrade" stage 5 Buschur
Just got off the phone with the nice and knowledgeable lady at Jackson Auto Machine. I ordered a set of JAM no-tick lifters since the P.O.'s mechanic didn't blead the stock lifters when the HKS cams went in, I think?
Anyway, she said HELL NO ! Do Not change out the stock rod bolts one at a time with ARP bolts, she just talked to someone that did and they spun a rod bearing.
She said every time you take a rod bolt out you change the rod a little and the rod needs to be checked and possibly re-sized.
Amazing, I hear nothing but good on here of how JAM engineered a lifter that the factory boys didn't do so hot on, but this is also the 1st negative I have ever heard of with Buschur, we all know the records they hold.
So, anybody had good or bad luck switching out the rod bolts one at a time without pulling the block?
Anyway, she said HELL NO ! Do Not change out the stock rod bolts one at a time with ARP bolts, she just talked to someone that did and they spun a rod bearing.
She said every time you take a rod bolt out you change the rod a little and the rod needs to be checked and possibly re-sized.
Amazing, I hear nothing but good on here of how JAM engineered a lifter that the factory boys didn't do so hot on, but this is also the 1st negative I have ever heard of with Buschur, we all know the records they hold.
So, anybody had good or bad luck switching out the rod bolts one at a time without pulling the block?
Oct 29, 2007, 03:25 PM
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The P.O. had the head studs upgraded allready, I will go back and read the stage 5 rec. for the EvoVIII but I swear on the Buschur web site they recomend dropping the pan and changing the rod bolts one at a time for stage 5, I will look again but I am damn sure that is what they said.
I have done all the first 0-4 stage upgrades so I need to decide wether or not to do this before the 20G-LT, or 35R
I have done all the first 0-4 stage upgrades so I need to decide wether or not to do this before the 20G-LT, or 35R
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Nov 2, 2007, 07:43 PM
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I didnt do them with my 5 or 6. Didnt do springs either with my cosworth cams, I have seen 8300rpm MANY times
Wouldnt recommend it though.
If you are scard of doing it, just take it to Dan Buschur.... I know he will do it, and right
I just havent done it myself.... I am just going with there block this winter.
Wouldnt recommend it though.
If you are scard of doing it, just take it to Dan Buschur.... I know he will do it, and right
I just havent done it myself.... I am just going with there block this winter.
Nov 15, 2007, 02:26 PM
#13
I have done this and seen this on hondas numerous times,when doing an LSVTEC with the stock rods and never heard of or seen a problem. The LS Block on a bseries honda has a redline of 7000 rpm, but when you put a vtec head on it you want to take it to 8000 rpm. Although the stock valvetrain on the vtec head can handle it, the ls block cant because the stock rod bolts on ls rods are thinner than those on b16 and b18c rods and when you hit 8000 rpm on the stock ls rod bolts they will stretch and of course the engine will start to knock. I have never had an issue I have done it on my own motor and seen various other stock bottom end lsvtecs upgrade the rod bolts on stock rods by dropping the oil pan and nothing has ever happen. I am not sure you can reach the rod bolts correctly on a 4g63 though.
Nov 16, 2007, 11:17 AM
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Bump, anybody else, I am about to call and ask the Bucshar boys myself,
they are great guys, I just would like to talk to a few guys that have already done this with sucess before I tried it!
they are great guys, I just would like to talk to a few guys that have already done this with sucess before I tried it!
Nov 16, 2007, 02:34 PM
#15
No need to call and ask, it's on our website isn't it? Do you really think we'd recommend it if it wasn't a good idea. I could really care less what the people JAM have said, recommend or want to talk you into our out of. Seems I am hearing more and more "mouth" coming from them then I ever have in the past.
We've changed rod bolts only in probably a half dozen EVO's, no problems. We've changed head studs in probably 100+ DSM's and EVO's one at a time and never had a problem.
If you'd like to have the head taken off, fresh gasket and new head studs we'd gladly do that instead, labor is $750. We can swap the head studs when we do the cams for $75. Now seriously, which do you think most shops are going to recommend? A $75 job that works or a $750 dollar job? The $75 job works perfectly so WE recommend doing it that way, if you want a giant sausage shoved up your back side do it the other way.
Personally, when it comes to the shortblock and rod bolts, I'd say do drop in forged pistons and rods and since the head has to be off when you do that put the head studs in at the same time. That labor bill runs around $900.
If your budget doesn't allow for it and you want a great measure of safety then just replacing the rod bolts is the best thing to do. The weakest part of the shortblock is the rod bolts, then the rod beam itself.
We've changed rod bolts only in probably a half dozen EVO's, no problems. We've changed head studs in probably 100+ DSM's and EVO's one at a time and never had a problem.
If you'd like to have the head taken off, fresh gasket and new head studs we'd gladly do that instead, labor is $750. We can swap the head studs when we do the cams for $75. Now seriously, which do you think most shops are going to recommend? A $75 job that works or a $750 dollar job? The $75 job works perfectly so WE recommend doing it that way, if you want a giant sausage shoved up your back side do it the other way.
Personally, when it comes to the shortblock and rod bolts, I'd say do drop in forged pistons and rods and since the head has to be off when you do that put the head studs in at the same time. That labor bill runs around $900.
If your budget doesn't allow for it and you want a great measure of safety then just replacing the rod bolts is the best thing to do. The weakest part of the shortblock is the rod bolts, then the rod beam itself.