Simple answer? Oil Loss 1 qt/ 500 miles. BAD BLOWBY?
Oct 31, 2007, 03:55 PM
#16
A compression test might not reveal all. You need to do a leak down test too. You could have a scored cylinder wall from say a wrist pin clip that came loose and the rings are still building compression because the scoring doesnt cover the whole cylinder. You can have good compression, but still have problems. The leakdown test will let you figure out if the rings are leaking by, intake valve leak by, exhaust valve leaking by, or blown head gasket. Head gasket could be blown between cylinders or to a water passage.
My engine has a lot of air coming out of the oil fill too. I checked my PCV and it is good. I looked over everything on the car couldnt find anything wrong. Did a compression check 1800 +/- 2 psi on all 4 cylinders. Did a leak down test on all four cylinders. The leakdown test should be conducted at TDC because that is where the cylinder sees the most abuse. I had 2% leakdown on all 4 cylinders. No problems with my engine. I asked on of the tuners here in SoCal and he said the air coming out of the oil fill is normal.
My engine has a lot of air coming out of the oil fill too. I checked my PCV and it is good. I looked over everything on the car couldnt find anything wrong. Did a compression check 1800 +/- 2 psi on all 4 cylinders. Did a leak down test on all four cylinders. The leakdown test should be conducted at TDC because that is where the cylinder sees the most abuse. I had 2% leakdown on all 4 cylinders. No problems with my engine. I asked on of the tuners here in SoCal and he said the air coming out of the oil fill is normal.
Oct 31, 2007, 03:57 PM
#17
i seen 2 cars with similar problems recently.
1 was rings didnt seal, causin oil consumption, but
2 (sounds like your problem) was fe(ked up rings
2 was also my car, though haven't stripped anythin yet, have had this same problem on an old car, though not rulin out piston damage, so im goin forged anyway.
1 was rings didnt seal, causin oil consumption, but
2 (sounds like your problem) was fe(ked up rings
2 was also my car, though haven't stripped anythin yet, have had this same problem on an old car, though not rulin out piston damage, so im goin forged anyway.
jk, hope I am not doing more dammage driving it.
Oct 31, 2007, 05:10 PM
#21
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smoked, didnt even realize it was you. Realistically, if you are pulling the whole motor apart, it might be in your best interests to just go ahead and yank all the piston/rod combos and check for damage across the board.
The probability that there is something wrong inside that motor is high, and to be on the safe side (preventing another problem like this) you may want to have a new set of pistons and rings installed.
As much as everyone says oil consumption is a problem due to where the ring lands on the piston, I dont believe it should be THAT bad.
The probability that there is something wrong inside that motor is high, and to be on the safe side (preventing another problem like this) you may want to have a new set of pistons and rings installed.
As much as everyone says oil consumption is a problem due to where the ring lands on the piston, I dont believe it should be THAT bad.
Nov 1, 2007, 10:47 AM
#23
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Funk, I find that most of the companies used...JE by Buschur
Ross by AMS, and so on and so on, offer the rings with their pistons.
Thats why I recomended a new set of pistons, just for the sake of safety.
You also have Arias which are great, some people dont like Crower products but I do
Realistically, if you've got stock pistons and you want to rebuild a motor thats blown (not recomended, usually a .020-.030 overbore AND new pistons with their rings are necessary, not always) You should use stock rings
If you are just doing drop in units on a fresh or decently fresh stock block, anything made for this purpose in current rotation will do just fine.
Ross by AMS, and so on and so on, offer the rings with their pistons.
Thats why I recomended a new set of pistons, just for the sake of safety.
You also have Arias which are great, some people dont like Crower products but I do
Realistically, if you've got stock pistons and you want to rebuild a motor thats blown (not recomended, usually a .020-.030 overbore AND new pistons with their rings are necessary, not always) You should use stock rings
If you are just doing drop in units on a fresh or decently fresh stock block, anything made for this purpose in current rotation will do just fine.
Nov 1, 2007, 12:53 PM
#24
you need to do a leak-down check in order to understand whats up with your motor.
you can get by with a comp check. then put like 1 squirt of oil in each cylinder & re-do your comp check. what ever cylinders have higher comp #'s is telling you that those rings are not sealing by themselves & need oil to seal them.
if you were running rich, all along with a new motor, then what happened is your rings never sealed due to running rich.
let us know what your leak-down #'s reveal.
most rings now-awdays are pretty good. it depends on the hone & how the engine is broken in, with an eye on afr during break-in. if it was rich, you just washed the oil off the walls.
i always like to break engines in on valvoline blue. this is a non-detergeant oil....yeah, its a step-back to the 50's-70's, but i never had a ring sealing issue EVER! moly, chrome-moly, l[plasma coated, titanium-nitrated rings whatever. the **** works.
you can get by with a comp check. then put like 1 squirt of oil in each cylinder & re-do your comp check. what ever cylinders have higher comp #'s is telling you that those rings are not sealing by themselves & need oil to seal them.
if you were running rich, all along with a new motor, then what happened is your rings never sealed due to running rich.
let us know what your leak-down #'s reveal.
most rings now-awdays are pretty good. it depends on the hone & how the engine is broken in, with an eye on afr during break-in. if it was rich, you just washed the oil off the walls.
i always like to break engines in on valvoline blue. this is a non-detergeant oil....yeah, its a step-back to the 50's-70's, but i never had a ring sealing issue EVER! moly, chrome-moly, l[plasma coated, titanium-nitrated rings whatever. the **** works.
Nov 1, 2007, 02:25 PM
#25
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Also, I may add, that the reason rings don't seat in properly are this ideas about babying a motor.
The whole idea behind break in, is when the parts are new to have them expand and contract properly. Allow the new engine to heat up, then, let 'er rip!
Dave Buschur has commented on this several times and its even in his forum on Buschur Racings site.
I used to race motorcycles and its just the way it works. By revving it freely, and allowing it to cool down completely, you both seat the rings AND being to temper the metals in the new parts.
Do this a few times, change the oil and you're done.
Ive had jackas#'s come up to me at the track insisting that I was doing wrong for the car at 650 miles on the clock.
Funny....my car had 70 or 80k (cant remember) on it when I sold it, and compression tested like NEW.
The whole idea behind being cautious about breaking in an engine is related to the possibility of faulty parts and assembly process', which if revved freely will usually take out enough other parts with it..
Warm it up, drive it like you stole it!
The whole idea behind break in, is when the parts are new to have them expand and contract properly. Allow the new engine to heat up, then, let 'er rip!
Dave Buschur has commented on this several times and its even in his forum on Buschur Racings site.
I used to race motorcycles and its just the way it works. By revving it freely, and allowing it to cool down completely, you both seat the rings AND being to temper the metals in the new parts.
Do this a few times, change the oil and you're done.
Ive had jackas#'s come up to me at the track insisting that I was doing wrong for the car at 650 miles on the clock.
Funny....my car had 70 or 80k (cant remember) on it when I sold it, and compression tested like NEW.
The whole idea behind being cautious about breaking in an engine is related to the possibility of faulty parts and assembly process', which if revved freely will usually take out enough other parts with it..
Warm it up, drive it like you stole it!
Nov 2, 2007, 06:50 PM
#28
Jury is still out... I am doing a compression check tomorrow, and hooking up with my "mechanic" this weekend to do the leak down test. Thanks for checking, I will be back with some numbers tomorrow.
(At least on the compression check).
I am doing a compression check tomorrow, and hooking up with my "mechanic" this weekend to do the leak down test. Thanks for checking, I will be back with some numbers tomorrow. (At least on the compression check).
Nov 2, 2007, 08:05 PM
#30
My last car was a G35 coupe. After 20k miles, it started consuming about a quart of oil every 500-700 miles. When i would get on it, i could see dark smoke out the exhaust. (was running test pipes).
Infiniti performed a compression test, which it passed. They then did a leak down and it failed. It ended up being that the piston rings on one of the cylinders were fried. But i got a new long block for free.
Just throwing that out there..Good luck, hope its nothing major.
Infiniti performed a compression test, which it passed. They then did a leak down and it failed. It ended up being that the piston rings on one of the cylinders were fried. But i got a new long block for free.
Just throwing that out there..Good luck, hope its nothing major.