bnice01

iTrader: (4)

Just want to share a good experience but after messing around (i have tried ALOT of idle adjustmust via ecuflash idle still the same), researching, I think I found a quick fix for:

-p0507
-idle surge
-bouncing idle
-melted IAC (running meth injection)
-sticking idle

I have had all of these problems due to a malfuntion IAC (or idle stepper motor) from running meth, cuz I am a big meth head LOL. Just looking @ these problems you already I have an idea what the problem is. Here is what I did:

-Tighten the idle screw all the way down
-unplugged the IAC connector

Thats it I have none of the problems above expect for the melted IAC nor do I have any SES or CEL's . I elected to find a way to to fix this since I am on my second IAC. They are not cheap either ($340), and it was replace 2 months after running meth on the evo. I love meth too much to take it off, just for an idle sensor. I hope this fixes any one elses problem.

bnice01

iTrader: (4)

bump it came back , still on the hunt for a fix

chaz517

LOLOLOLOL sorry that was funny cuz u seemed so excited about it and then 12 hours later pppppppppppp. good luck though

bnice01

iTrader: (4)

hell yeah I was, it worked for like 3 days ahhh but thanks man

kaonashi

iTrader: (34)

which part did you unplug got a pic of what you did?

Robdevo

iTrader: (14)

The old age trick for DSM's is to use a different throttle body. A 4.6l throttle body off of a Ford Mustang seems to work good as you won't have all of those air passages that are used for the sensor to read (hence why the unplug trick >almost< worked).

You will have to redrille the holes to make it fit the manifold, and you will have to tap a hole for the throttle cable. Other then that, you put it on, and adjust the idle with the screw and call it a day.

bnice01

iTrader: (4)

yep that's what I was trying to do

But thanks for the tip, trust I will give it a try


FYI the sensor I unplugged was the IAC (idle air controller) located right below the TB.

bnice01

iTrader: (4)

I think I got it this time.

-Go to your local auto parts store and pick up some "quicksteel" putty

-Remove your throttle body

-As you can see in the picture below why the meth fries these sensors. It has nowhere to go but down. Once you get a little backfire in your intake manifold, there is the flame for the meth that has been sitting on the sensor. Now you can see why it looks burnt. See I never understood why this didnt happen on my srt-4. Well the neon's IACV sits in the upper left as well as the ports are on the roof of the TB. So its out of arms way to a degree


-Now the stepper motor adjusts the idle with this little hole I am pointing @ as well as the two ports in front of the TB.


-Take out your quicksteel (make sure you follow the instructions so it cures correctly. Dont want it in your manifold with not paying attention to detail.) place it over the hole. See how I filled in the whole wedge not just the hole


-Make sure its flush against the wall so it does not get in the way of the gasket. Let it cure for @ least 2hrs.


-Put your IACV back so boost doest leak out. Its up to you if you want to plug it up. I left it unplugged, its broke remember


-Bolt everything back up and adjust your idle with the throttle cable backet. Dont be alarm if you start your car without making the cable adjustment, you have remove the IACV out of the picture so you are adjusting the idle now. FYI I have my BISS all the way closed, so it may or may not work better for you. This mod is a day old but I feel it will work. I will post a progress report right after turkey day.

-Two things that will help with adjusting your idle:
a. Loosen the 10mm bolts, pull the bracket all the way towards the passenger side, and then tight them
b. Let the car warm up to operating temp
Then start to slowly move the throttle cable bracket towards the driver side until you are happy with your idle. Might want to grab a buddy to look @ the tach for you while you adjust.

Cold start will be a little rough but there is always trade-offs with modding

iturregui

iTrader: (7)

Nice writeup. Thanks for sharing. Sometimes I get P0505 and I still don't know why is that. The idle is fine though, just a little high (1 KRPM)

C6C6CH3vo

iTrader: (9)

This has got to be the largest band aid fix I have ever noticed.

Let me know if your idle remains good, I might try it - lol

bnice01

iTrader: (4)

way to quote all those pix LOL j/k but yeah it is a big band aid. It was my last attempt before either doing direct port with the stock tb w/ a new IACV or getting a bigger tb with the stepper mounted higher. I literally woke up out of bed and said " I GOT IT" notice in some of my pix you see light blue pants well those are my PJ's I was sleeping in. My wife thought I was nuts.

Its still working good, but cold start is a bit rough. I rather have that then sit @ a light with the whole idle hunt going LOL.

C6C6CH3vo

iTrader: (9)

Thank God my work computer doesn't allow me to view images of other's in pajamas.

Two years ago I melted my stepper while tuning my methanol system (had it triggered on at vacuum - lol), I called the local mitsu parts dude - the guy that sells me 2 for 1 oil filters every month - and he said $375 for the stepper . So I drove down the street to GSC and Greg sold me a complete barely used plenum with TB, stepper, solenoids, lines, EGR and spiders for a steal, like $200. I cannibalized the stepper, kept the TB, and EGR, then traded the plenum to tklemann for poly mounts. I think I made a profit by having my stepper melt - lol.

Fast forward to now, I get a strange idle problem that resembles the symptoms of when my stepper melted 2 years ago but stepper is fine. Even checked all four coils on it and completely cleaned and lubed the TB assy. The problem is very random, idle may be fine one day but bad the next, boost can trigger it. Every pnuematic system has been inspected, serviced, or checked, flash settings reviewed. About all it can be now is an ecu malfunction or wiring.

I am going to try your mod to see if that fixes it which will signify the ECU or wiring is bad

Check the FS and put an add for a WTB stock TB. Hell, you might find a complete IX TB FS for about $100. Don't waste your money at OEM, at least try ebay.

But yeah, sitting at a light with the rpm hopping from 1500 to 2500 rpm can be very, well... makes me want to break something

bnice01

iTrader: (4)

before you do this mod try this:

-go to your idle stepper table
-adjust your rpm by every 100 (the max it should read now is around 2500ish) still keep 0 as 0 the next block 100, then 200 etc
-then adjust the idle steps

see if bringing your steps down will close the IACV a little more.

I tried this to give the IACV a better range of curing higher rpm "hunt"

I had my steps down to 1 in every cell, thats when I knew she was done and stuck fully open.

I wished i lived near GSC

Robdevo

iTrader: (14)

One other fix if you want to keep your cold starts which worked for me. Go to a junk yard (you might have to call around) and see if you can find one that will just sell you the Idle control motor.

Here are the list of cars that it will work off of. They all have a 2.4L SOHC

2000-2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse (this is what I used and it worked fine)
2001-2004 Chrysler Sebring
2001-2004 Dodge Stratus
1999-2003 Mitsubishi Galant

Now one thing, I do use AEM standalone, so I am not sure how the stock computer will handle this. It should work fine, but I payed $35.00, and it worked for me so I figured it was worth the try.

The idle motor does look SLIGHTLY different, but from what I can tell, it seems like it is better construction.

bnice01

iTrader: (4)

LOL those cars are still too new for the junk yards around here, man wish I lived in a bigger city def would do that.