Knew it. Good luck.

 

Yup I think EVOTech was probably right on this one, hopefully you will be running as soon as you inspect this and get it lined out.

 

by any chance does anybody have a pic of what its supposed to look like. a few of you said that you have put it on backwards and you couldn't tell. I want to make sure I put it on the right way.

 

Below is a pic, Once you flip it over you will realize that it fits and looks better. Black wire up and Blue wire down.

 

thanks for the pic

 

ok car starts now, but it only runs for about a second and then shuts off

 

Put the code reader on it again. The sensor may have come in contact with the plate and damaged it.

 

car starts and runs now if i give it a little gas but sometimes it dies and sometimes it runs for a little. I'll try and get my friends scanner again

 

Check for vaccum leaks and all that good stuff now man. If it was one of those sensors mentioned before she wouldnt be running.

 

I was checking for a vacuum leak and it sounds like thats what it would be, but i haven't found anything yet

 

Just an update, I had 2 vaccum leaks. One was coming from an injector and one was in the lower intercooler pipe. I think the main reason to why it was not staying on was I forgot to set my throttle cable and It was getting any air. I still have to due some fine tuning but at least I can drive it. Only other issue now is that my speedo isn't working so I'll have to check my vss later. Thanks guys

 

You don't set a throttle cable on an evo. The throttle should be 100% shut at idle always.

 

hmmm well I need to figure out how to keep it running. Thats what I did on my DSM when I didnt want to stay running

 

What other mods did you do when you put the new motor in. Did you change the intake?

 

My friend is having a similar problem now. The car would start and idle but when it got moving above 3000rpm, it would die off. The shop who built the engine for him then discovered that the blade is hitting the crank angle sensor. The crank angle sensor was torqued down correctly and wasn't loose. I think the blade could only be installed one way so it couldn't have been wrongly installed. Could it be crank walk? I asked them about the crankshaft endplay and they said they measured 0.05mm with a magnetic dial indicator. All main and thrust bearings used were matched and bought from Mitsu.

I'm wondering if its just a case of CAS installation prob, warped blade or really crank walk.