I know this has been discussed but I"M FED UP W/ MY ACT CLUTCH!
Nov 20, 2007, 06:49 PM
#16
Former Sponsor
it sounds like a disengagement problem which may or may not be the actual clutches fault. If the flywheel was resurfaced when that ACT was installed (which it should have been) there is always the chance someone didnt properly machine each 'step' of the flywheel accordingly. This can cause all kinds of disengagement headaches and poor shifting. Especially at higher rpm. I have seen it several times in the past.
Problem is the only real way to figure out whats going on is to pull the trans and clutch and inspect everything. Im sure you could get a disk thickness spec from ACT and have a competent machinist measure the step on your flywheel and see if its within spec.
HTH
-bill
Problem is the only real way to figure out whats going on is to pull the trans and clutch and inspect everything. Im sure you could get a disk thickness spec from ACT and have a competent machinist measure the step on your flywheel and see if its within spec.
HTH
-bill
, but for what it's worth the Evo flywheel is flat and has no step. Machining a stock or aftermarket chromemoly unit like ours is less critical on the Evo compared to the DSM flywheels which require the correct step to operate properly.To the OP if you've tried adjusting it to no avail, feel that the parts are at fault and/or would like to have us take a look at the parts please feel free to shoot me a PM.
Nov 20, 2007, 06:53 PM
#17
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Well after a few attempts at the track over the past month and a half and not being able to make any full boost "clean" passes i've come to the conclusion that my ACT clutch set-up is holding me back 
Basically mods down below on an ACT HD w/ the street disc that was in the car when i bought it and only had 500 miles on it if that so i thought i'd keep it in there until it started slipping.
Well it seems to hold the HP but will not for the life of me allow me to shift quickly above 7500 rpm
Made 4 passes and each one would hardly let me get into gear unless i completely let off the gas>>>>clutch in>>>>shift>>>>clutch out>>>>and back on the gas obviously not helping my ET.
I had thought that it was just my driving technique as i still don't have a lot of seat time in the car but i don't think it's me anymore.
Sorry for the slight rant but i had high hopes after getting some new wheels and Nitto DR's which did help me get at 1.67 60 ft but damn that 1-2 shift ARGGGGHHH!
I think it's time for a twin disc set-up.......what do you think?
Basically mods down below on an ACT HD w/ the street disc that was in the car when i bought it and only had 500 miles on it if that so i thought i'd keep it in there until it started slipping.
Well it seems to hold the HP but will not for the life of me allow me to shift quickly above 7500 rpm
Made 4 passes and each one would hardly let me get into gear unless i completely let off the gas>>>>clutch in>>>>shift>>>>clutch out>>>>and back on the gas obviously not helping my ET.
I had thought that it was just my driving technique as i still don't have a lot of seat time in the car but i don't think it's me anymore.
Sorry for the slight rant but i had high hopes after getting some new wheels and Nitto DR's which did help me get at 1.67 60 ft but damn that 1-2 shift ARGGGGHHH!
I think it's time for a twin disc set-up.......what do you think?
Nov 20, 2007, 07:43 PM
#18
With the Weight and size of a sprung single disc they don't like to power shift well past 7k. I did a HD with a unsprung 6 puck and I could power shift it awesome off my 8200rpm rev limiter, but I ended up popping the TB. At that time I did not know what I did and wanted to race Friday and broke it Thursday taking the guys to lunch. So I just bought a HD twin from another local shop that had it in stock. When I pulled the trans I had a hard debate with my self knowing I would just add more wave springs and build a stop and put my single back in, but I just went for the twin. I put 5 wave springs and did a stop to help against popping the TB on the twin. I know next time when we pull it we will have to just pull the PP bolts.
I know the HD twin drives nice but really is only good for 500whp if you drag alot. According to a good friend (Jake M ) he says the QM drive great but I have yet to drive a car with one. I know one mans idea of great is alot different than another's. I had a QM in my 1G and thought it drove like carp.
The QM is nice sine it gives the push style TB so you don't have to worry about popping the TB clips and makes pulling the trans in the future much easer.
I know the HD twin drives nice but really is only good for 500whp if you drag alot. According to a good friend (Jake M ) he says the QM drive great but I have yet to drive a car with one. I know one mans idea of great is alot different than another's. I had a QM in my 1G and thought it drove like carp.
The QM is nice sine it gives the push style TB so you don't have to worry about popping the TB clips and makes pulling the trans in the future much easer.
Nov 26, 2007, 06:30 PM
#19
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With the Weight and size of a sprung single disc they don't like to power shift well past 7k. I did a HD with a unsprung 6 puck and I could power shift it awesome off my 8200rpm rev limiter, but I ended up popping the TB. At that time I did not know what I did and wanted to race Friday and broke it Thursday taking the guys to lunch. So I just bought a HD twin from another local shop that had it in stock. When I pulled the trans I had a hard debate with my self knowing I would just add more wave springs and build a stop and put my single back in, but I just went for the twin. I put 5 wave springs and did a stop to help against popping the TB on the twin. I know next time when we pull it we will have to just pull the PP bolts.
I know the HD twin drives nice but really is only good for 500whp if you drag alot. According to a good friend (Jake M ) he says the QM drive great but I have yet to drive a car with one. I know one mans idea of great is alot different than another's. I had a QM in my 1G and thought it drove like carp.
The QM is nice sine it gives the push style TB so you don't have to worry about popping the TB clips and makes pulling the trans in the future much easer.
I know the HD twin drives nice but really is only good for 500whp if you drag alot. According to a good friend (Jake M ) he says the QM drive great but I have yet to drive a car with one. I know one mans idea of great is alot different than another's. I had a QM in my 1G and thought it drove like carp.
The QM is nice sine it gives the push style TB so you don't have to worry about popping the TB clips and makes pulling the trans in the future much easer.
I don't want to sound like a COMPLETE idiot, but is the Quarter Master set-up similar to the Tilton kit with the conversion from pull to push? I have also heard that it becomes a pain in the A$$ to remove the trans this way. I know that the RPS carbon kits take forever to remove since you have to undo each bolt while the trans in still on the car through the peep hole.
Jerry
Nov 27, 2007, 04:31 AM
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I adjusted the clutch numerous times and it didn't work..
in the end I changed my ACT clutch and the lockout problem was solved.
Take it from me..
I searched these forums back to back and saw numerous ways "suggesting" how it could be fixed.
I gave each a chance...and they failed.
Get another clutch and I guarantee the problem is done with
in the end I changed my ACT clutch and the lockout problem was solved.
Take it from me..
I searched these forums back to back and saw numerous ways "suggesting" how it could be fixed.
I gave each a chance...and they failed.
Get another clutch and I guarantee the problem is done with
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