DB gauge Innovate not accurate????
#1
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DB gauge Innovate not accurate????
It started yesterday when I first started my car I noticed that my AFR is 17.8 the whole time even when I tried to drove it aroung the neighborhood. I just turned my engine off took out the keys and started again after 1 minute. Last night same thing happened when I went to the mall. I started the and the AFR is aroung 17's again and it wasn't moving. This morning I recalibrate it before I start it....went to church after couple hours...its the same thing happen so restart it again.
I had it for almost 5 months. Got it brand new from a vendor here.
What should I do now?
I had it for almost 5 months. Got it brand new from a vendor here.
What should I do now?
Last edited by evovin; Nov 26, 2007 at 05:24 AM.
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I did some logs just to make sure im not getting any knocks and it is zero knocks!
help here im not 100% sure now if its my wideband or if my tune is getting leaner? Is it posible? what could cause to be leaner?
help here im not 100% sure now if its my wideband or if my tune is getting leaner? Is it posible? what could cause to be leaner?
Last edited by evovin; Nov 25, 2007 at 06:17 PM.
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Check your grounds... Theyre very specific about not putting grounds together as it kills the sensor quicker... also if your w/b isn't always on while the motor is running that kills it quicker...
My o2 just went bad after about a year... 18-20k When mine took a dump my readings were just very inconsistent all at once, wasnt an over time thing..
Good luck
My o2 just went bad after about a year... 18-20k When mine took a dump my readings were just very inconsistent all at once, wasnt an over time thing..
Good luck
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any boost leaks will cause the wideband to read lean at idle, and what the sensor is reading will be correct. i would look for other causes then just the sensor (or tune, as at idle your in closed loop and you can't tune closed loop targets as far as i know)
if your reading 17afr cruising down the highway then i would suspect the sensor, but check for boost leaks first.
if your reading 17afr cruising down the highway then i would suspect the sensor, but check for boost leaks first.
Last edited by KevinD; Nov 25, 2007 at 07:53 PM.
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does it idle higher when you turn it on again? generally the boost leaks causing lean conditions are more pronounced the lower the idle is. so at higher idle speeds (i.e. when you just turn it on), the boost leak doesn't effect it as much.
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actualy i noticed when i approach a light from any gears to neutral as soon as i hit to fully stop my idle stays above 2k rpm(for about 3 sec then goes back t normal) even i already let off the throttle for like 3 sec.
Last edited by evovin; Nov 25, 2007 at 10:14 PM.
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subscribed, im having the SAME problem...when i first turn my car on, it idles LEAN AS HELL! Im using an AEM wideband, and i just put a new o2 sensor in it this weekend. If i tap the gas when its reading lean as hell, it corrects itself and reads back in the 14.7 - 15.0 range
Im thinking I might have a leaky (stock ix) bov? Because when I hit the gas at idle and raise the rpms to about 3500 or so and let go, the idle falls to 500, and the car feels like its going to stall, then corrects itself again after a few seconds
Strange thing is, though, like you im able to hit 23psi, so im not sure if there is a leak or not?
Im thinking I might have a leaky (stock ix) bov? Because when I hit the gas at idle and raise the rpms to about 3500 or so and let go, the idle falls to 500, and the car feels like its going to stall, then corrects itself again after a few seconds
Strange thing is, though, like you im able to hit 23psi, so im not sure if there is a leak or not?
Last edited by saiyanzzrage; Nov 26, 2007 at 06:34 AM.
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boost leaks don't limit the amount of boost you run. most boost leaks are small, for instance a bad weld on a intercooler pipe bung, a vacuum line disconnected,
or a clamp not quite tight enough. these small leaks allow the engine to suck air through them at idle speeds, and sense at idle speeds very little air is needed to keep the engine running, the leak makes a significant effect on the AFR. the leaks lets air get in the intake without being measured by the MAF, thus no fuel is added to compensate. the more air that is getting sucked into the engine (i.e. higher RPM , or more load like cruising on the highway), the less of an effect the boost leak will have on the AFR. thus you will see your AFR get closer to 14.7:1 when cruising around. once you go into boost, the positive pressure in the intake track actually pushes the air out of the leaks, thus your engine will run slightly rich as air is measured by the MAF, but does not reach it into the engine.
sense most leaks are small they aren't going to make any difference at all at how much boost you are running.
the BOV if it is leaking, provided it is not a VTA, will not cause the car to run lean at idle. because when it opens or leaks, the air is recirculated back into the intake track after the MAF pipe, the air is there and hasn't gone anywhere thus the proper fuel is still delivered. a leaky BOV will however reduce the amount of boost you can run because the BOV is a large valve that simply vents off pressure thus reducing boost.
or a clamp not quite tight enough. these small leaks allow the engine to suck air through them at idle speeds, and sense at idle speeds very little air is needed to keep the engine running, the leak makes a significant effect on the AFR. the leaks lets air get in the intake without being measured by the MAF, thus no fuel is added to compensate. the more air that is getting sucked into the engine (i.e. higher RPM , or more load like cruising on the highway), the less of an effect the boost leak will have on the AFR. thus you will see your AFR get closer to 14.7:1 when cruising around. once you go into boost, the positive pressure in the intake track actually pushes the air out of the leaks, thus your engine will run slightly rich as air is measured by the MAF, but does not reach it into the engine.
sense most leaks are small they aren't going to make any difference at all at how much boost you are running.
the BOV if it is leaking, provided it is not a VTA, will not cause the car to run lean at idle. because when it opens or leaks, the air is recirculated back into the intake track after the MAF pipe, the air is there and hasn't gone anywhere thus the proper fuel is still delivered. a leaky BOV will however reduce the amount of boost you can run because the BOV is a large valve that simply vents off pressure thus reducing boost.
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boost leaks don't limit the amount of boost you run. most boost leaks are small, for instance a bad weld on a intercooler pipe bung, a vacuum line disconnected,
or a clamp not quite tight enough. these small leaks allow the engine to suck air through them at idle speeds, and sense at idle speeds very little air is needed to keep the engine running, the leak makes a significant effect on the AFR. the leaks lets air get in the intake without being measured by the MAF, thus no fuel is added to compensate. the more air that is getting sucked into the engine (i.e. higher RPM , or more load like cruising on the highway), the less of an effect the boost leak will have on the AFR. thus you will see your AFR get closer to 14.7:1 when cruising around. once you go into boost, the positive pressure in the intake track actually pushes the air out of the leaks, thus your engine will run slightly rich as air is measured by the MAF, but does not reach it into the engine.
sense most leaks are small they aren't going to make any difference at all at how much boost you are running.
the BOV if it is leaking, provided it is not a VTA, will not cause the car to run lean at idle. because when it opens or leaks, the air is recirculated back into the intake track after the MAF pipe, the air is there and hasn't gone anywhere thus the proper fuel is still delivered. a leaky BOV will however reduce the amount of boost you can run because the BOV is a large valve that simply vents off pressure thus reducing boost.
or a clamp not quite tight enough. these small leaks allow the engine to suck air through them at idle speeds, and sense at idle speeds very little air is needed to keep the engine running, the leak makes a significant effect on the AFR. the leaks lets air get in the intake without being measured by the MAF, thus no fuel is added to compensate. the more air that is getting sucked into the engine (i.e. higher RPM , or more load like cruising on the highway), the less of an effect the boost leak will have on the AFR. thus you will see your AFR get closer to 14.7:1 when cruising around. once you go into boost, the positive pressure in the intake track actually pushes the air out of the leaks, thus your engine will run slightly rich as air is measured by the MAF, but does not reach it into the engine.
sense most leaks are small they aren't going to make any difference at all at how much boost you are running.
the BOV if it is leaking, provided it is not a VTA, will not cause the car to run lean at idle. because when it opens or leaks, the air is recirculated back into the intake track after the MAF pipe, the air is there and hasn't gone anywhere thus the proper fuel is still delivered. a leaky BOV will however reduce the amount of boost you can run because the BOV is a large valve that simply vents off pressure thus reducing boost.
I guess my next step is to checl for a boost leak
to the original poster, sorry for jacking the thread
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yep, time to do a boost leak test so you can rule that out. Also check for exhaust leaks, they can wreak havoc on a wb02 as oxygen from outside the exhaust system contaminate the reading. Also check your NB02 while it's showing 17.0:1 on the WB02 if the NB02 isn't cycling up and down steadily that suggests the WB02 reading is accurate.