Different Styles of Lower Intercooler Pipe, which is best?
Nov 28, 2007, 03:58 PM
#31
Tom
Nov 29, 2007, 01:19 PM
#33
the licp lives by the dp, which generates heat. this heat warms up the licp. yeah, when your mowing through the gears, the air out of the turbo is will get hotter, but any means of having air go through cooler tubing is better the same air going through a hotter pipe......a fmic can only do so much, why not give your air temps the best chance they can to cool down. if its not that big of a deal, then why does your car run much stronger in the cooler days than hotter ones....every bit helps.
Nov 29, 2007, 01:23 PM
#34
I had the AMS LICP originally. It was the one without the bracket. The thing I didn't like about it was I bent one of the inlets by over tightening the t-bolt. I could tell a noticeable difference with the AMS pipe, but I kept blowing it off then bent it trying to cure that problem.
I now run a Nisei LICP and haven't had that problem. Plus I like the design and the bracket made into it. Haven't blown the Nisei pipe off yet.
I now run a Nisei LICP and haven't had that problem. Plus I like the design and the bracket made into it. Haven't blown the Nisei pipe off yet.
Nov 29, 2007, 02:17 PM
#35
the licp lives by the dp, which generates heat. this heat warms up the licp. yeah, when your mowing through the gears, the air out of the turbo is will get hotter, but any means of having air go through cooler tubing is better the same air going through a hotter pipe......a fmic can only do so much, why not give your air temps the best chance they can to cool down. if its not that big of a deal, then why does your car run much stronger in the cooler days than hotter ones....every bit helps.
if your arguing that the DP is heating the LICP then the steel (which has a lower heat transfer coefficient) would be better because it would be harder for heat to flow in than if it was Al.
the point is that the Licp (at least the part you replace) is over 7 inches from the DP, air is an excellent insulator so heating of the LICP is not an issue. (you can test this by seeing how close you can hold your hand next to a fire, its deff closer than 7 inches and the heat your hand can take is much less than the temperature that the compressor outlet is producing)
If your setup cant handle a steel LICP because it is heating up you have much bigger problems
Jun 15, 2008, 07:57 AM
#37
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most aftermarket and reputable brands are all more than good its all on personal preference in the end...even though some will complain that at the end of so so a pipe is reduced and restricted and so so b is not ...that is crap because have u seen the outlet of the turbo ...so that little piece of reduction is not going to affect anything!
Jun 17, 2008, 02:13 PM
#39
I installed the steel Nisei licp and realized ~10whp gain. I posted that and got tons of flack from all the people that own other brands telling me that *any* gains from a LICP were unlikely. My testing was not conclusive enough for me to argue the point but I believe the gains were real.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ght=Nisei+LICP
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ght=Nisei+LICP
Last edited by Mr. Evo IX; Jun 17, 2008 at 02:42 PM.
Jun 17, 2008, 02:31 PM
#40
I have been researching what LCIP I want to purchase and I am have found two distinct styles of pipe used. One version expands the diameter of the pipe imediatly (Buschur, HPF, Nisei), and others use a section of smaller pipe then smoothly expand to a larger diameter (AMS, OEM).
Version 1 (Buschur)
Version 2 (AMS)
Im assuming both Buschur and AMS (for example) tested both styles of LCIP and decided on which one they thought was best.
It seems to me that version 1 should flow better and make more power, but possibly have worse spool than version 2 because of the increased internal volume of the pipe and corresponding decrease in airflow velocity.
I would be interested in hearing any first hand experience.
Version 1 (Buschur)
Version 2 (AMS)
Im assuming both Buschur and AMS (for example) tested both styles of LCIP and decided on which one they thought was best.
It seems to me that version 1 should flow better and make more power, but possibly have worse spool than version 2 because of the increased internal volume of the pipe and corresponding decrease in airflow velocity.
I would be interested in hearing any first hand experience.
Jun 17, 2008, 03:37 PM
#42
Our lower pipe transitions to keep velocity up.
Also our pipe now has a smooth transition, we only have one weld connecting the two pieces together so you get the taper and the velocity as the factory intended and smooth pipe to boot.
not to mention our is aluminum (dissipates heat better) and come with a support brace/ bracket making it extremely difficult to ever loose a very hard to get at lower IC pipe. Without this brace I don't care what material the pipe is or what clamps there are.... it can find a way to work its way off. We know this because we had problems in the past with our pipe and many others... so we redesigned it and made it better
Eric
Also our pipe now has a smooth transition, we only have one weld connecting the two pieces together so you get the taper and the velocity as the factory intended and smooth pipe to boot.
not to mention our is aluminum (dissipates heat better) and come with a support brace/ bracket making it extremely difficult to ever loose a very hard to get at lower IC pipe. Without this brace I don't care what material the pipe is or what clamps there are.... it can find a way to work its way off. We know this because we had problems in the past with our pipe and many others... so we redesigned it and made it better
Eric
Sep 10, 2008, 09:32 AM
#45
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I have a AMS LICP and I was told by my tuner I would have made more power with a ETS or Buscher style pipe but my tq numbers would have been lower on on race gase. Now I'm planning on upgrading to a FP red so I wonder if a ETS style lower pipe would yeild more power vs. AMS