4WS Tuning

iTrader: (73)

we bypassed the Dli, we swapped coils with another evo that runs well... checked all fuses and grounds..

the motor is turning, and the starter is working strong... its getting fuel...

its somethign electric deep in the system somewhere...


As of this morning i dropped off the car at USP Motorsports a vender on the forum here who are very good with the mechanics of evos and have built race cars in the past so im sure theyll do great at fixing my heap so i can rock on!

VenomEVO8

iTrader: (21)

Good luck with that...

VTEC Killer

iTrader: (4)

Did you think about the ignition failure sensor? It sort of looks like the factory map sensor and it gets bolted on the top of the intake manifold. Mine would go bad when engine bay temps got hot and the car would die. I got rid of mine and just used a jumper wire to bypass it completely.

I have a diagram of it for the 4 cyl 2001 eclipse, but its the same connector.

http://www.aggravatedinsanity.com/Be...FS_Removal.JPG

Im not certain if the US spec EVO's have this but I would imagine they do. Mine harness is from a JDM EVO VII

EvoTech

iTrader: (25)

Even though it did not throw a code, did you put a scanner on it anyway? For some reason a bad crank position senor onlt throws a soft code and does not trigger the check engine light. A scan however would pick up the code. You may have had it indexed wrong and it hit the plate. That is my best guess. I know from expereince.

VenomEVO8

iTrader: (21)

Any update on your problem???

slow_evo

iTrader: (2)

I just fixed a evo 9 with the same exact problem as yours! If you still need help let me know, if it's already at the shop then never mind. They probably already got it figured out.

mhgsx

iTrader: (6)

If you went to through the trouble of posting, why not actually share the info with the rest of the community?? I'm sure someone is gonna come across this problem and would probably appreciate an answer by reading the thread vs. pm'ing you for an answer.

slow_evo

iTrader: (2)

Fair enough...

Check continuity from the middle wire at the coil connectors at the harness side with the the matching ecu harness wire.

If you have continuity check voltage at the coil harness side (same wire, middle one) while key ON and it should be somewhere near 5v dc.

Verify continuity with ground on the same connector (can't remember if it was #1 or 3 wire).

And on the last wire should be bat voltage with key on.

Check crank and cam pos sensors too just to be safe, basically same fashion as coil.

If you have all of this and it still does not work, ecu is toast. That's what it was in my case.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.

VenomEVO8

iTrader: (21)

Well he found the cam sensor was in wrong that was his problem!! Go tamer haah jk

Spoolin.

iTrader: (3)

hahaha Venom I believe his problem was MUCH worse than a cam sensor improperly installed. The car would be running by now...

nos51

iTrader: (30)

i just had to swap my crank sensor out,it was rubbing on the plate slighty and it finally died on me......i went about 1200 miles like this until gave up.sounds like a problem he might have

Spoolin.

iTrader: (3)

I think he killed a couple crank sensors actually...

VenomEVO8

iTrader: (21)

oh just went by what he he posted in the SFL