evo_08

iTrader: (1)

your in ny...go visit sean ivey inc.

03v8slayer

iTrader: (3)

My VIII put down 275 Whp with 272 cams,TBE,intake,walbro 255,MBC at 21 psi before i got it tuned. That was on a dynojet. Nowafter the tune she puts down 316 whp.

incandescent

thank you Warrtalon and others, some post where very beneficial to me and my problem I appreciate your help as always.

Im going to go back to the shop and see what is up with this car. Im all for putting money into it running safely heck im sure I will pick up some power while I'm at it and I'm all for that too!

The thing just has to have cams it idles at 1000rpm and it has a slight lope. My idle vacuum is 12inhg. What is stock idle vacuum?

hokiruu

iTrader: (19)

Please let us know once you are certain about the cams. It is possible to reach those numbers on stock cams, but upgraded cams are not out of the question either. I am in a similar situation as you. I have an '03 the same mods as you, minus the intake and pipes, plus a Walbro, and what *I am pretty sure are stock* cams, and a boost leak that surfaced/became a noticeable issue toward the end of the session once the car became hot, and I made 267hp and 292tq. on the baseline run and 293hp/303tq after a tune on a Dynojet. This is corrected at 5300-5400' elevation and 21 psi on an MBC.

incandescent

^ Are those graphs of after the boost leak was fixed? That torque curve looks way better them mine, very linear and not so steep as mine is. Makes me think that I could benefit from a tune if I can get more linear torque....

I will let you know of my progress I will be going to the shop tomorrow morning.

I hate getting ripped off and I don't know pricing so how much should a boost leak test cost me if Im getting it done at a performance shop?

I am also wondering... since there may be a boost leak less air is getting into the enigne then it thinks, that may be why its going rich?

hokiruu

iTrader: (19)

No, the boost leak first surfaced or became a noticeable issue during the tuning session that those graphs are from. I had done a boost leak test two days prior, but something began leaking on the last 2-3 runs when the car really got hot, throwing off the A/F ratio. Driving away from the facility was when I was finally able to hear the leak. Now it only surfaces when the car is really hot again.

If I were you I'd try to do the leak test yourself. It really helps to have an air compressor. You can buy leak testers, and are worth it if you are leak testing as often as you probably should. I haven't been able to do enough leak tests as often as I should because I don't have a compressor or garage at the moment, so I just rent a little time/space, and air hose from a local shop, and bring my own leak tester with me.
Unless you supply them with a tester, most non-performance-specific shops won't know how to do one.

For me, the hard part of leak testing is that my leak only really seems to happen when my car is hot, and the fact that leak testing for anything past the UICP is tricky. Leaving the UICP connected, the pressure just leaks out the valves and exhaust no matter how much a turn the wheels. I still don't know how anyone who says they get all the valves closed to leak test past the TB does it.

scheides

iTrader: (10)

My 2005 put down 266whp on dyno dynamics with stock fuel pump, mbc, TBE w/ hiflo cat, fmic, and pipes (all buschur parts). It looks like your car has a 10.5 hotside or SS 02 housing, or possibly some mild cams.

With fuel pump and hks 280's, my car put down 295whp on dyno dynamics, still with hiflo cat. I'd wager ~305-310 w/ testpipe, that seems to add a solid 10whp on top of a hiflo cat setup.

incandescent

I called the shop and 30 bucks for the boost leak test does not sound so bad to me. Im going to have that done. Sucks that I don't have $400 for a tune; tho I hope that perhaps the prior tune will pick up where it left off before the boost leak occurred.

I am also getting my AEM Wideband installed today for 50 bucks which i think is cool too. Just gona be annoying to see how nasty pig rich it is all the time now barf my mpg is lame I get like 200 miles per tank, ouch!! It doesn't help that my turbo spools instantly Jeeze if i got a LICP i bet i would knock a couple hundred off my 3200 full spool. 2900 would be auto-x-tacular

I have a turbo timer but I am goign to have them hook up the "shutoff if e-brake is pulled" cable.

I am going to have them take the valve cover off and we will put to rest this cam business. (i hope anyways )

I have been getting a rattle from the engine bay, not all the time buy say 20% of the time I shut the engine off it rattles. It also rattles sometimes threw certain rpms , say 2-3k in 5th gear. and at idle. I am hoping its a heat-shield or the remains of that EBC that was once in there that i need to take out (lol 10mm socket will fix that). But it could very well be an engine mount and in that case I will be forking over several hundreds I suppose... I doubt its internal due to it not occurring constantly. We will be checking that out as well.

Im off to the shop soon so I will update later on the progress and some pics of the interior with all my gauges and electronics installed

hokiruu

iTrader: (19)

Oh yeah, and I forgot to mention, the difference in our torque curves could be attributed to your intake, and the fact that I'm at much higher elevation than you. But you can see how the tune improved both my hp and tq curves. Regarless of how mine looks, and besides the peak increases from a tune, a tune will optimize your powerband for your mods.

incandescent

While i was writing above you posed some info.

The shop i am goign to is an import tuning shop here on long island. They can perfroma boost leak test. I have a compressor but do not feel confident in doing so myself. I also do not have a garadge and its cold/snowing slightly outside. Ive used this shop before and the people are cool, it is where I got the car dyno'd. I don't want them to tune my car tho because i have not heard much of anything about them i think i will go over to connecticut by ferry and have Big Al do that.

Now i do not know if the car has an SS o2 housing but from the looks of it (threw the whole stock heat-shielding setup) i can't see so good but it is rusted so that leads me to believe it is not an after-market o2 housing. I want to know because if it is not then i would love to get one and gains some more whp. The car has a stock 8 16g turbo. I do not think it has a 10.5 hotside due to the fast as hell spool and the lack of top end power. Now the lack of top end could very well be constributed to the boost leak but that I will soon find out.

Mild cams are a definite possibility due to the slight lope (nothing harsh or popcorn machine sounding. just subtle) If you think its worth it and you could tell form hearing it I can post up a sound clip...? But as warrtalon said it could be that the boost leak is the culprit. Today I will find out if there i a boost leak and a great deal of my questions will most likely be answered.

hokiruu

iTrader: (19)

Yeah the slight lope and good baseline numbers are what could indicate the presence of upgraded cams. In addition, it's always a little weird comparing DD to DJ graphs, as the graphs look pretty different. Our tq curves are hard to compare due to this and the elevation + your intake +the possibility of cams. Some cams will move your powerband up or down.
Once you are sure about the cams I'd love to know, plus your results after the O2 if you decide to do it, and your tuned results.

incandescent

Just got back finally, argh took forever. NO leaks where present. I forgot to take off the valve cover again damn it. I'm bummed about that but I forgot because I really jsut wanted to get the heck out of there. I was there for over 3 hours. At least that had modified mag to keep me occupied that and this cool 4 month old female pit-bull, she was fun.

No more waiting around in my car for minutes letting the turbo cool down!! My turbo timer and air/fuel gauge are working well....

some bad news:

My motor mount on the drivers side is the culprit of the "rattle" and I have to replace that darn thing.

I have a pin hole leak in the rear main seal (crank seal?). I know this because I found it last oil change and have driven 1500 miles and not lost any oil ( i dipstick regularly) I do understand that the leak must be there because the block is wet. It sucks but just to be safe I will be forking over the $600 for replacement the seal is i think $20 and the rest is god awful labor. They need to drop the tranny to get to it. I dont have those skills at all. The only other explanation would be that the head gasket is leaking and dripping all the way down but thats really not so likely IMO. Looks like that tune is going to have to wait until February when i get 2007's bonus pay.

incandescent

Another thing that may be of use to some.

When we removed the intake pipe into the turbo cold side There was some oil in it. There was also oil in the crank case breather line. I'm going to get a catch can to stop this oil from building up in my intercooler hardpiping and head(?). I am going to certainly get an oil catch can after seeing this.

hokiruu

iTrader: (19)

Good idea. Check out the one I built, it works very well, is tiny and can be mounted just about anywhere, and best of all, super cheap!

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=255949

incandescent

In reference to above post
hokiruu that last step about the tube from the top to the bottom of the carch can sounds awesome. It will certainly do the trick better that way as it is kinda like a water bong If you know what i mean ;D I am seriously considering this I love working on my car but I am not trained as a mechanic so am very limited in my abilities. This seems like something i can totally do myself and be proud of.