Tre Rear Differential Upgrade Service
Sep 11, 2008, 05:56 PM
#241
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a vid of car with TRE rear diff in it... the advanced observer should be able to see how the car drifts with slight oversteer out of most turns.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFvC6dSf2Fw
you can kinda see the car from this video.. hard to see, but car is neutral sliding alot.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVf2-xkRxYU
ofcourse the badass KW robsipec race shocks helped too
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFvC6dSf2Fw
you can kinda see the car from this video.. hard to see, but car is neutral sliding alot.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVf2-xkRxYU
ofcourse the badass KW robsipec race shocks helped too
You have to love guys who do track days in short sleeves and no roll cage. It takes big stones...
Sep 14, 2008, 02:59 PM
#250
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Thought I might outline the steps to remove the rear diff for those who want to do this on their own. Did this by myself with no assistance. This differs from the shop manual in that you do not have to remove the nuts on the ball joints that connect to the hub assembly. Having done it the way in the shop manual and this way, the following is much easier!
1. Jack up car and place on jack stands. Be safe. I always get the creeps when my face is 4 or so inches from the bottom of the car. Put the car in neutral to allow the spinning of the driveshaft. Better to do this now than having to do it after you have removed two of the drive shaft bolts!
2. Remove rear wheels and drain the gear oil from diff
3. Remove bolt holding shock to arm
4. Remove bolt on arm holding same arm to the hub assembly
5. Remove the front bolt to the trailing arm
6. Gently pry axles from diff while pulling wheel hub out and up
7. If you do not have an assistant, use jacks to hold the rotors up and out of the way for clearance. If you have ideally two assistants, they can pull the rotors up and out of the way when you drop the diff. Better yet get someone else to go under the car while you supervise and pull on the rotor. Free beer helps this negotiation
8. Zip tie the axle ends closest to the diff to the sway bar. Angle the ends toward the rear to allow clearance to drop the diff
9. Remove drive shaft bolts. Put something under the drive shaft to support it.
10. Remove bolts at the back of diff that connect to the mustache bar. Be careful to use closed end wrench to remove. The one on driver's side is tight and at an awkward angle for most wrenches. When I did this the first time I used an open end wrench and rounded the bolt head (sucks). This time I used a swivel head ratcheting wrench to get that one out. Most wrenches have too much angle on the closed end.
11. Put jack under diff and remove the remaining two bolts to the chassis. Be ready for the diff to move around on the jack as it is hard to balance
Good Luck!
1. Jack up car and place on jack stands. Be safe. I always get the creeps when my face is 4 or so inches from the bottom of the car. Put the car in neutral to allow the spinning of the driveshaft. Better to do this now than having to do it after you have removed two of the drive shaft bolts!
2. Remove rear wheels and drain the gear oil from diff
3. Remove bolt holding shock to arm
4. Remove bolt on arm holding same arm to the hub assembly
5. Remove the front bolt to the trailing arm
6. Gently pry axles from diff while pulling wheel hub out and up
7. If you do not have an assistant, use jacks to hold the rotors up and out of the way for clearance. If you have ideally two assistants, they can pull the rotors up and out of the way when you drop the diff. Better yet get someone else to go under the car while you supervise and pull on the rotor. Free beer helps this negotiation
8. Zip tie the axle ends closest to the diff to the sway bar. Angle the ends toward the rear to allow clearance to drop the diff
9. Remove drive shaft bolts. Put something under the drive shaft to support it.
10. Remove bolts at the back of diff that connect to the mustache bar. Be careful to use closed end wrench to remove. The one on driver's side is tight and at an awkward angle for most wrenches. When I did this the first time I used an open end wrench and rounded the bolt head (sucks). This time I used a swivel head ratcheting wrench to get that one out. Most wrenches have too much angle on the closed end.
11. Put jack under diff and remove the remaining two bolts to the chassis. Be ready for the diff to move around on the jack as it is hard to balance
Good Luck!
Last edited by chmodlf; Sep 14, 2008 at 06:26 PM.
Sep 18, 2008, 08:39 AM
#251
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Just got off the phone with Jon. This is a very knowledgeable guy. He is passionate about his business. I highly recommend him to you guys.
I love this diff. You will too.
I love this diff. You will too.
Oct 1, 2008, 09:20 AM
#255
I haven't had any of the differentials that I've set up fail. Marty sent me a TRE modified differential that was in his T2 beast and it was fine. The friction plates were perfect, no signs of galling or excessive wear and I expect it won’t need to have any sort of refresh service for quite sometime.
Now have seen a couple of the factory rear differentials get beat up pretty bad. They galled and seized the spider gears to the cross shaft and actually twist the posts right off the cross shaft. This problem results from the factory limited slip not being capable of keeping up with some of those who have way too much rear sway bar and not enough spring rate to keep the inside rear tire on the ground. The inside rear tire spins wildly and even though the spider gears are in a bath of oil they now can spin fast enough to fling the oil off galling up the spider gear and cross shaft generate lots of heat and melt the cross shaft and gear together and twist the post right off the cross shaft. This is similar to what happens in a FWD that spins the **** out of one tire.
Occasionally the pinion bearings need replacement and I have seen a few come in where the ring & pinion were severely worn. Once because the customer had made the fatal mistake and filled the rear differential with BG Synchroshift.
For the latest oil recommendations please check the FAQ, http://www.teamrip.com/faq.htm
You guys who launch the hell out of the EVO will eventually damage the carrier bearing post, or journal, on the side cover of the differential.
The way the gears get pushed around during those mean clutch dumps will put a tremendous amount of radial load on that bearing and it will actually collapse the bearing post enough that it is no longer an interference fit and the bearing is able to spin on the post. This will wear out the post allowing the preload of the carrier to turn into end play, both radial and axial. This is bad because the only thing that holds a tapered roller bearing concentric to its bore is preload. Without preload on the bearing, the ring gear is now free to move around and alter the contact pattern between the ring & pinion gears. You can see where this is going now right? Altered contact pattern = undesirable loading of the gears which can cause them to make noise, generate heat, wear unevenly and yes put higher bending force on the teeth which will can cause them to yield and crack. If you plan on drag racing the EVO I have stronger side covers.
Other than that the EVO rear differential assembly appears to be pretty stout.
Last edited by GEARS; Oct 17, 2008 at 05:40 PM.