AMS 2.3RR + Full Race 3076 TS Kit = faster than stock spool?
#18
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TedB, thanks for the input. Do you think that there would be a significant amount of power available at the higher RPM reaches of the AMS 2.3RR to justify spending the money vs. a regular 2.3 built block. I know that it is all relative and depends on how much one is willing to spend to gain a few HP. When thinking about this setup I was thinking 20-30whp difference on the top end would be worth it to me. 5-10whp gain, probably not. And does anyone know if the 2.3RR has any other advantage over a regular 2.3 other than the ability to run at higher RPMs? Is it a stronger all around block? Does it have any characteristics to allow for additional gains at lower RPMs?
Thanks
Thanks
#19
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I feel the answer to that question depends on how serious one is with the expected application. Personally speaking, I'm not a big fan of the short rod ratio long stroke 2.3. The AMS 2.3RR relieves some of the shortcomings of the regular 2.3, and should be more durable. The proof of the design's race worthiness lies with the various racing teams that use the same design specs (e.g. JUN).
The 2.3RR should be more efficient on the top side of the rev range, as well as more durable. As to how this translates into real world results is dependent upon several variables.
The 2.3RR should be more efficient on the top side of the rev range, as well as more durable. As to how this translates into real world results is dependent upon several variables.
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I know one major point that your getting at: largest variable being the driver. Driver mods are very important. I've just had alot of time to read and think about what I will eventually do to my car. Thankfully, EvoDan2004 gave us some data on the 30R TS. Unfortunately it was not with a 2.3 and we will have no results on 100+ octane before he goes bigger. Oh well, still more time to think about it and see more data roll in.
Would somebody buy my dang Supra already
Would somebody buy my dang Supra already
#21
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I know one major point that your getting at: largest variable being the driver. Driver mods are very important. I've just had alot of time to read and think about what I will eventually do to my car. Thankfully, EvoDan2004 gave us some data on the 30R TS. Unfortunately it was not with a 2.3 and we will have no results on 100+ octane before he goes bigger. Oh well, still more time to think about it and see more data roll in.
Would somebody buy my dang Supra already
Would somebody buy my dang Supra already
#22
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Evodan2004 got us some good data on pump gas but I was really wanting to see some numbers on 100+ octane before he switched over to the 35R TS. I would really like to see dyno plots and boost vs. RPM for both pump and race gas. And if there will be data for meth/h2o, that would be great also.
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My data will be on 101 octane, stock motor. Got the clutch sorted however it appears that my front o2 sensor is going bad. I am replacing that tonight and I should be done breaking in the clutch before I go off for vacation - I'm back and tuning on the 29th. Should have my 101 map tuned then sort the 110 leaded and 91 map and spend some time on the dyno. That should be early January though.
#24
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The thing that scares me about the stroker kits are the insane piston speeds they have to be hitting. Anything in the design that can relieve some of the stresses on the piston will add reliability, which is what the RR kits does I'm assuming.
For a road course, you need a FAT powerband. 3k-8k with 400whp peak is a lot more useful than 6k-8k with 600whp (well, unless you have a 7-8 speed tranny and shift like crazy).
A 2.3 with a twin scroll 3076 would be insane on a road course and should be very easy to drive. Driving a big laggy turbo on a road course is just a mixture for disaster. For example, all you have to do is look at all the big horsepower Supras that have been in SCC's Ultimate Street Car Challenge. The cars are unuseable on a road course because they're slow as hell until the boost kicks, but then it hits too hard and you can't control it.
For a road course, you need a FAT powerband. 3k-8k with 400whp peak is a lot more useful than 6k-8k with 600whp (well, unless you have a 7-8 speed tranny and shift like crazy).
A 2.3 with a twin scroll 3076 would be insane on a road course and should be very easy to drive. Driving a big laggy turbo on a road course is just a mixture for disaster. For example, all you have to do is look at all the big horsepower Supras that have been in SCC's Ultimate Street Car Challenge. The cars are unuseable on a road course because they're slow as hell until the boost kicks, but then it hits too hard and you can't control it.
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The other thing I like about the possibilites with this setup is that the things that would make it great on a track are the same things that would make it a great daily driver. Imagine huge power available to pass without downshifting (not that there's anything wrong with downshifting).
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