Another new PUMP gas record, thanks Driven Innovations
#331
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i think this has been asked without response. what are the reductions in weight per door? is that where the majority of weight loss is happening?
I am at 3050 lbs with CF trunk (no wing), no crash beams, trunk stripped, and i can't understand where/how he is losing another 450 lbs. i can't imagine each CF taking off anythign more than 20lbs each
I am at 3050 lbs with CF trunk (no wing), no crash beams, trunk stripped, and i can't understand where/how he is losing another 450 lbs. i can't imagine each CF taking off anythign more than 20lbs each
Last edited by joel(PA); Feb 25, 2008 at 08:34 AM.
#332
Well said SloRice... and I also enjoyed reading Malibu's stories of his experiences of stumbling on knock free high boost on pump And also enjoyed reading Ted's post about cylinder pressures and piston speeds / position.
#333
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I never called anyone out, all my posts have been questions, not attacks. I admitted (and apolagized) for my harsh remarks in the beginning.
After doing some research and speaking with other people, reading on here, etc heres what i came up with.
1) Seems most EVO guys (compared to other engines i am familiar with) run considerably less compression on their built engines. Most guys are running pretty aggressive cams. What does this mean? Static compression is lower, and dynamic compression is even lower than that.
2) Tony1 (fastest integra in the country , 9.2 1/4 mile) made a good point:
So i believe the low IATs.
3)
I also agree with that statement. Its prob true that with lowe enough static and dynamic compression, that higher boost (that what i am used to seeing ) is possible on limited octane fuel.
Assuming all this is true (abnormally low compression , cool outside weather, etc)
Let me give you some insight into my thinking though. 6-7 years ago, Honda was the same way. Everyone was buying 8:1 pistons for their turbo applications. People were running 20-25psi to make 400whp on their t3/t4 turbos.
Now, fast forward a few years later, personally i reccomend 9.5:1 on stock sleeves and 10:1 on a sleeved motor. Ive had cars make 500whp @20psi on PUMP gas with a 10:1 compression engine(that still run 20k miles later).
In my personal opinion, the higher compression (within reason) the more efficient, crisp, responsive then motor and car is. The turbo will spool faster, you will get better gas mileage around town, etc.
I perhaps overlooked a few things in the DSM community way of thinking.
This leads me to my second question.
Why run the risk on pump gas at that kind of boost level rather than run methanol or race gas and a higher compression engine? What EGTs are you seeing? Has anyone run a 9.5 or 10:1 motor with THIS 35R for comparisons sake?I think we can all agree that 30psi on 93 petrol , if you get a bad tank of gas (which is totally possible in the summertime) you could potentially have serious issues.
I think we can all agree that a boost spike on a cold wintry night on pump gas at that boost level COULD spell disaster as well.
If you have race gas or meth, the chances for disaster are quite less.
Can this 600+ 93 octane car sustain a 20-30min session on a road course? or is it purely designed for short street/track racing pulls of 11 sec or less? I would be very weary of a car with this power on a road course on reg octane.
I think we can all agree that if this car makes 600+ on pump tan on race gas it will make even more (assuming the turbo is not maxed out). If we are in the quest for power, then why not push it further with higher octane that is readily available?
Im sure it prob because most people have TRUE street cars and want to go to the pump, fill up, and go race. No one wants to deal with meth pumps failing, stopping to put c16 in if you are at least a half tank, etc.
I appreciate the time put forward by Mr. Bushur out of his busy schedule to address my questions and everyone else that has participated and had a constructive word to say. I look forward to more discussion
-MIKE
After doing some research and speaking with other people, reading on here, etc heres what i came up with.
1) Seems most EVO guys (compared to other engines i am familiar with) run considerably less compression on their built engines. Most guys are running pretty aggressive cams. What does this mean? Static compression is lower, and dynamic compression is even lower than that.
2) Tony1 (fastest integra in the country , 9.2 1/4 mile) made a good point:
It is the middle of Feb. and Buschur is in Ohio, right? I'd be willing to be ambient temps were pretty chilly. I have a very similar sized intercooler on my car and i'm able to maintain within 30 deg F of ambient temps at the throttle body during a full 1/4 mile run at almost 50psi. 68 deg air temps on a short dyno pull with cold ambient temps is very believable.
3)
The thing is, most people don't build a setup designed to do that on pump. If there was only 93 octane available, you'd see everything as sub 8:1 compression and more numbers like this. As it stands, we don't have to flirt with disaster for no reason, we do have higher octane fuel available, and for that reason we can take advantage of making an engine more efficient at the expense of giving up some power potential on pump gas.
Assuming all this is true (abnormally low compression , cool outside weather, etc)
Let me give you some insight into my thinking though. 6-7 years ago, Honda was the same way. Everyone was buying 8:1 pistons for their turbo applications. People were running 20-25psi to make 400whp on their t3/t4 turbos.
Now, fast forward a few years later, personally i reccomend 9.5:1 on stock sleeves and 10:1 on a sleeved motor. Ive had cars make 500whp @20psi on PUMP gas with a 10:1 compression engine(that still run 20k miles later).
In my personal opinion, the higher compression (within reason) the more efficient, crisp, responsive then motor and car is. The turbo will spool faster, you will get better gas mileage around town, etc.
I perhaps overlooked a few things in the DSM community way of thinking.
This leads me to my second question.
Why run the risk on pump gas at that kind of boost level rather than run methanol or race gas and a higher compression engine? What EGTs are you seeing? Has anyone run a 9.5 or 10:1 motor with THIS 35R for comparisons sake?I think we can all agree that 30psi on 93 petrol , if you get a bad tank of gas (which is totally possible in the summertime) you could potentially have serious issues.
I think we can all agree that a boost spike on a cold wintry night on pump gas at that boost level COULD spell disaster as well.
If you have race gas or meth, the chances for disaster are quite less.
Can this 600+ 93 octane car sustain a 20-30min session on a road course? or is it purely designed for short street/track racing pulls of 11 sec or less? I would be very weary of a car with this power on a road course on reg octane.
I think we can all agree that if this car makes 600+ on pump tan on race gas it will make even more (assuming the turbo is not maxed out). If we are in the quest for power, then why not push it further with higher octane that is readily available?
Im sure it prob because most people have TRUE street cars and want to go to the pump, fill up, and go race. No one wants to deal with meth pumps failing, stopping to put c16 in if you are at least a half tank, etc.
I appreciate the time put forward by Mr. Bushur out of his busy schedule to address my questions and everyone else that has participated and had a constructive word to say. I look forward to more discussion
-MIKE
#334
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i think this has been asked without response. what are the reductions in weight per door? is that where the majority of weight loss is happening?
I am at 3050 lbs with CF trunk (no wing), no crash beams, trunk stripped, and i can't understand where/how he is losing another 450 lbs. i can't imagine each CF taking off anythign more than 20lbs each
I am at 3050 lbs with CF trunk (no wing), no crash beams, trunk stripped, and i can't understand where/how he is losing another 450 lbs. i can't imagine each CF taking off anythign more than 20lbs each
Greddy Ti exhaust
Tilton clutch super light and flywheel
Ti strut bar
Buschur mustache bar
Buschur front support bar
lightweight brake rotors
lightweight volk RE-30 wheels 17'
Carbon fiber Driveshaft
Mini battery
Carbon Fiber doors F/R
Carbon fiber trunk
NRG lightweight seats
removed complete A/C system
Removed complete carpet
removed rear seat
removed evap system
removed front and rear crash beams
removed rear seatbelts
removed misc brackets under dash
removed misc brackets in engine bay
removed complete ACD system pump/lines/computer transfercase replaced with shepard racing transfercase.
replaced all bushings to poly F/R
apexi coilover suspension
replaced brake hoses and pads
Buschur race block/=no balance shafts inside
replaced hood with carbonfiber one is 1.4 pounds heaver than stock.
That's all I can think of for weight savings right now
Car is 2620 lbs right now.
Probably the lightest street driven evo period.
AMS mini Radiator
mini carbon Ralli mirrors on doors
David Buschur saw the scale recipt period.
#335
Mike... it sounds like you might have tuned a few turbo cars... I'm not sure.
If you have, let me ask you, what was the reason you chose a target boost level for 93 octane fuel on those cars you have tuned?
If you have, let me ask you, what was the reason you chose a target boost level for 93 octane fuel on those cars you have tuned?
#336
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Mike, I'm going to be doing to road races soon and the plan was to use the Greddy remote hi/low boost switch. Low boost through the twisties ~ 400awhp and high boost for the straights ~ 500awhp on 93 octane. I'll be logging/monitoring the car closely to see how it behaves and will share the data when it becomes available.
#337
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i think this has been asked without response. what are the reductions in weight per door? is that where the majority of weight loss is happening?
I am at 3050 lbs with CF trunk (no wing), no crash beams, trunk stripped, and i can't understand where/how he is losing another 450 lbs. i can't imagine each CF taking off anythign more than 20lbs each
I am at 3050 lbs with CF trunk (no wing), no crash beams, trunk stripped, and i can't understand where/how he is losing another 450 lbs. i can't imagine each CF taking off anythign more than 20lbs each
The list was a little more extensive as I can see now.
Last edited by bolio; Feb 25, 2008 at 09:22 AM.
#339
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Mike, I'm going to be doing to road races soon and the plan was to use the Greddy remote hi/low boost switch. Low boost through the twisties ~ 400awhp and high boost for the straights ~ 500awhp on 93 octane. I'll be logging/monitoring the car closely to see how it behaves and will share the data when it becomes available.
#340
Evolving Member
iTrader: (62)
Started with an RS ,05.
Greddy Ti exhaust
Tilton clutch super light and flywheel
Ti strut bar
Buschur mustache bar
Buschur front support bar
lightweight brake rotors
lightweight volk RE-30 wheels 17'
Carbon fiber Driveshaft
Mini battery
Carbon Fiber doors F/R
Carbon fiber trunk
NRG lightweight seats
removed complete A/C system
Removed complete carpet
removed rear seat
removed evap system
removed front and rear crash beams
removed rear seatbelts
removed misc brackets under dash
removed misc brackets in engine bay
removed complete ACD system pump/lines/computer transfercase replaced with shepard racing transfercase.
replaced all bushings to poly F/R
apexi coilover suspension
replaced brake hoses and pads
Buschur race block/=no balance shafts inside
replaced hood with carbonfiber one is 1.4 pounds heaver than stock.
That's all I can think of for weight savings right now
Car is 2620 lbs right now.
Probably the lightest street driven evo period.
AMS mini Radiator
mini carbon Ralli mirrors on doors
David Buschur saw the scale recipt period.
Greddy Ti exhaust
Tilton clutch super light and flywheel
Ti strut bar
Buschur mustache bar
Buschur front support bar
lightweight brake rotors
lightweight volk RE-30 wheels 17'
Carbon fiber Driveshaft
Mini battery
Carbon Fiber doors F/R
Carbon fiber trunk
NRG lightweight seats
removed complete A/C system
Removed complete carpet
removed rear seat
removed evap system
removed front and rear crash beams
removed rear seatbelts
removed misc brackets under dash
removed misc brackets in engine bay
removed complete ACD system pump/lines/computer transfercase replaced with shepard racing transfercase.
replaced all bushings to poly F/R
apexi coilover suspension
replaced brake hoses and pads
Buschur race block/=no balance shafts inside
replaced hood with carbonfiber one is 1.4 pounds heaver than stock.
That's all I can think of for weight savings right now
Car is 2620 lbs right now.
Probably the lightest street driven evo period.
AMS mini Radiator
mini carbon Ralli mirrors on doors
David Buschur saw the scale recipt period.
bad *** car! do you know how much the doors saved? how was fitment?
#341
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This is in response to Mike's (Tracy) post...post # 333
1. Buschur's motors are stock compression...so 8.8:1 I believe
2. Correct, it is cold up here. But a 20*F rise above ambient temperature is still VERY good.
3. You're doing the same thing by cranking the boost up to 30psi and running 8.8:1 compression or cranking the compression up to 10:1 and running 20psi.....its the same thing. The dynamic compression of the entire system is the same. How do you make pressure inside the combustion cylinder....3 ways....compression ratio, boost pressure and timing advance. Its just a fine balance between those 3 things.
Most people don't want to run meth or race gas. I'm am personally not a fan of meth injections systems. I've seen way to many fail to be comfortable running one. I also don't want to personally run race gas all the time. It's expensive ($15 per gallon) and creates a lot of unwanted attention due to the smell.
You will make more power with boost on a 35R than you will from timing advance or higher static compression ratio any day of the week. So turn those two things down and crank up the boost. Its a fine balance. On my STI with a 35R, 8.2:1 compression, about 5 degrees less timing than at 20psi, I was running 26psi of boost on pump gas. We could have went further, but the motor was already hurt from a boost spike on the dyno a couple months prior and I was tired of messing with it.
EGT's.......SERIOUSLY WHO CARES!!!
As for this engine surviving during a road race......simple answer, NO. You tune a car completely different for drag racing/highway pulls than you do for road racing. AFR's are usually a half a point to a full point richer with a road race tune and timing is usually 4-5 degrees more retarded from what I've seen.
1. Buschur's motors are stock compression...so 8.8:1 I believe
2. Correct, it is cold up here. But a 20*F rise above ambient temperature is still VERY good.
3. You're doing the same thing by cranking the boost up to 30psi and running 8.8:1 compression or cranking the compression up to 10:1 and running 20psi.....its the same thing. The dynamic compression of the entire system is the same. How do you make pressure inside the combustion cylinder....3 ways....compression ratio, boost pressure and timing advance. Its just a fine balance between those 3 things.
Originally Posted by Tracy
Why run the risk on pump gas at that kind of boost level rather than run methanol or race gas and a higher compression engine? What EGTs are you seeing?
You will make more power with boost on a 35R than you will from timing advance or higher static compression ratio any day of the week. So turn those two things down and crank up the boost. Its a fine balance. On my STI with a 35R, 8.2:1 compression, about 5 degrees less timing than at 20psi, I was running 26psi of boost on pump gas. We could have went further, but the motor was already hurt from a boost spike on the dyno a couple months prior and I was tired of messing with it.
EGT's.......SERIOUSLY WHO CARES!!!
As for this engine surviving during a road race......simple answer, NO. You tune a car completely different for drag racing/highway pulls than you do for road racing. AFR's are usually a half a point to a full point richer with a road race tune and timing is usually 4-5 degrees more retarded from what I've seen.
Last edited by SloRice; Feb 25, 2008 at 09:26 AM.
#343
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Doors fitment was ok,nothing like the factory fitment though.They saved alotta weight.
#344
Did not mean to be taking away from your achievement. Your car is awesome. But there are lighter street Evos
You don't want to know what my two friend Evo III RS's weigh stock.... about 400 lbs lighter than a VI RS factory spec! And my friend has a new engine and PT67 kit he is gonna throw in his 3!
Props to you though... normal Evo 8/9's must feel pretty lardy now after driving your car.
You don't want to know what my two friend Evo III RS's weigh stock.... about 400 lbs lighter than a VI RS factory spec! And my friend has a new engine and PT67 kit he is gonna throw in his 3!
Props to you though... normal Evo 8/9's must feel pretty lardy now after driving your car.