RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

Give me a break, how Evom is this quote? Drive around a bad BOV? please.

Ever heard of throttle management on the circuit? It would (and is) be an absolute nightmare with a bucking BOV. I've had people change back to the IX bov after track days because of this.

boost_junky2000

iTrader: (1)

if i am not mistaken it's the 9 turbo not the bov. I run 24psi everyday and like warrtalon said its the way you drive. which does take some getting use to. and the amount of boost you currently run i would stick with the stock 9 bov. no idea why people get rid of it, works like a champ. it's not like it a a 2g bov or evo 8 bov.

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

And "if i am not mistaken" if my sister had ***** she'd be my brother.

Nomad4g63

iTrader: (16)

SO THEN

which bov would be the better 1 to replace it with?

-TURBOSMART?
-EVO9 BOV?

-Greddy TYpe s
-Tial

??? im lost and u guys arguing about what the problem is rather than finding me a solution is confusing me even more

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

Evo 9

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

^+1 and add this if you need more boost or more smooth.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=260789

rice_rocket88

iTrader: (9)

I don't think anyone is arguing the problem.. it IS the BOV fluttering at partial boost values.

Learning how to drive is in a way a correct thing. I could get the VIII plastic one to do it (it was just much quieter) I could also get the MR metal one to do it.

It's a little more civil. Your choice on BOV. You can get an adjustable one where you can test your spring load so that it'll solve it. Then again, you would also have to test to see if it is in fact holding enough boost.

Sounds to me your easiest bet would be to find an MR BOV and call it a day. Usually people only get the "other" BOV's because they are replacing the VIII plastic one or going for higher boost.

Greddy BOV is a pain to adjust with the Evo. I moved mine over from my Talon and it was a @#$@# to adjust better. In the end I went with an APS BOV and I like it. I can still "drive" it so that I get the bucking, but as stated... if you learn how to drive it a bit better then you don't have the problem. Doesn't mean you don't know how to drive, just that you need to adjust your driving style to avoid those issues. I know for a fact in 4th or 5th gear partial throttle if I go to 12psi it'll do it. Anything under is good for me, any WOT is great. That's just my own car and my own setup.

8UpUrV8

iTrader: (9)

And if you run more than 25psi? Deal with the leaks, because it's easier to drive?

cfdfireman1

iTrader: (11)

do a track day somewhere that has a few long sweepers that require a steady 60 to 80% throttle and you'll want to lose the forge yourself and in case you don't know there are other solutions to the problem and the links are in this thread.

RazorLab

iTrader: (8)

Not going to want to hold 25psi at the track on a stock or stockish (fpgreen) turbo anyway.

With stock turbo, it won't even hold close to 25psi.

So both non-issues.

With biggie turbos, race gas guys probably need a BOV that can hold more boost, tials work great for this.

I've personally seen stock Evo 9 bov's hold 27psi.

The bucking is a deal-breaker on the circuit when you are in a sweeper feathering the throttle. People that actually do this, understand, people that don't, don't.

rawkus

iTrader: (16)

I noticed this problem as well when I switched from a Greddy Blow Off Valve to a Forge Bypass Valve. Is it due to the spring being too stiff, or not stiff enough? Thanks.
Dan

Celica2EVO

iTrader: (58)

The Forge BOVs do flutter, but so do most. It does have to do somewhat with your dirving! (i have a Forge BOV for now, but not much longer lol) As far as the Tial, there are only 2 ways to run a VTA, MAF Translater with GM Blow through, or go to a complete standalone! I am about to go with an AEM EMS is why Im getting rid of my Forge. But if you check out ETS, they have the Translators and Sensor: http://www.extremeturbosystems.com/M...674/index.html Good Luck!

eponti

iTrader: (12)

It should came with springs and shims,try using different spring combo

Celica2EVO

iTrader: (58)

The springs and shims dont really help! Check out Mellons thread, dont have a link for it but Ill try to find it! He went through all kinds of $hit with Buschur and Forge trying to get the valve to work and not do this with no luck! They just flutter on partial throttle for some reason!

Cirrusly Evolvd

iTrader: (44)

I've run the stock VIII, JDM Metal, Greddy RS, Forge RS, Tial, and GFB Stealth FX and every one of them does this during part throttle boosting. The problem is the spring inside. With the metal stock valve the spring is soft enough that it doesn't really affect the car much. However with an adjustable valve such as the Forge you can crank the spring tension down and it will help to a point. After that the part throttle boost will cause the car to buck severely and screw up your air/fuel ratio. It's nothing to do with the tune and when you go to a bigger turbo it exacerbates the problem more due to more air being moved through the system.

Really the only reliable method I've managed to come up with to solve this is:

1. Accelerate under full boost and then let off the throttle completely
2. Accelerate out of boost