Having a misfire issue between shifts, will HKS DLI fix this?
Mar 2, 2008, 07:22 AM
#20
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Total miles on car is 27,300. Ive been running the cams since November 11th, so probably 2000-2500 miles since the cams.
DavidBuschur, if it was possibly valve float, would that happen in every gear change? If I start in say, 2nd gear, and go 2nd->3rd->4th and so on, I dont get anything less than a clean shift. Its only when I go from 1st->2nd and sometimes when I go 1st->2nd->3rd (but rare for 3rd to do it).
The bog usually lasts .5-1 second.
DavidBuschur, if it was possibly valve float, would that happen in every gear change? If I start in say, 2nd gear, and go 2nd->3rd->4th and so on, I dont get anything less than a clean shift. Its only when I go from 1st->2nd and sometimes when I go 1st->2nd->3rd (but rare for 3rd to do it).
The bog usually lasts .5-1 second.
Mar 2, 2008, 08:35 AM
#23
my HKS DLI died in less than a year & HKS wanted almost as much as a new unit to repair mine. if you look around the net you will see this is not uncommon. 
in my opinion spending almsot 500$ on an item only to have it fail within a year
is unacceptable. add to that the fact that even though it was an internal failure & obviously a defect, when i tried to get the unit repaired HKS gave me the run around. eventually i got a hold of someone who was able to get in touch with a HKS rep for me.
unfortunately the fee just to have HKS look at the thing was in the area of 200$ & that did not cover any repairs that may be needed! also, all repairs are done overseas so id have to pay shipping as well. best part was that there was no guarantee that they would even fix the unit.
so i could pay 200ish dollars to have it looked at, another 20-40 for shipping & possibly more if repair parts were needed. even then there was no guarantee that they would or could even fix the device.
while i know some people have no problems with this unit, personally i would stay away from the HKS DLI unless you want an expensive paperweight in a few months
the part that upset me the most was the shop that sold the HKS DLI to me said they were familiar W this problem, & have had others customers with similar situations, yet they continue to sell this product to this day
in my opinion spending almsot 500$ on an item only to have it fail within a year
is unacceptable. add to that the fact that even though it was an internal failure & obviously a defect, when i tried to get the unit repaired HKS gave me the run around. eventually i got a hold of someone who was able to get in touch with a HKS rep for me.
unfortunately the fee just to have HKS look at the thing was in the area of 200$ & that did not cover any repairs that may be needed! also, all repairs are done overseas so id have to pay shipping as well. best part was that there was no guarantee that they would even fix the unit.
so i could pay 200ish dollars to have it looked at, another 20-40 for shipping & possibly more if repair parts were needed. even then there was no guarantee that they would or could even fix the device.
while i know some people have no problems with this unit, personally i would stay away from the HKS DLI unless you want an expensive paperweight in a few months
the part that upset me the most was the shop that sold the HKS DLI to me said they were familiar W this problem, & have had others customers with similar situations, yet they continue to sell this product to this day
Last edited by CharlieGsanD; Mar 2, 2008 at 08:42 AM.
Mar 2, 2008, 09:17 AM
#24
280 hks cams WILL need valve springs. the 10.8 lift in the 272s is about as much as the stock valve train will take. I lowered my RPM limit when I put in my 272/272 combo I max @ 7500 but never get to it, I max @ 7200 +- in 4th in the 1/4 mi.
Another option over the HKS is the Sun Auto Hyper Force.
Another option over the HKS is the Sun Auto Hyper Force.
Mar 2, 2008, 09:29 AM
#25
I agree, we sold the HKS units too, had some start failing and then realized no matter what HKS was not going to stand behind the product. I don't know that they ever did a warranty repair on any we sent in. We stopped selling them.
Our standard dual spring set are good for 9,000 rpm without a problem. If we build a head that has to see 10,000 rpm or more we have other springs that can be used but cost twice as much.
Our standard dual spring set are good for 9,000 rpm without a problem. If we build a head that has to see 10,000 rpm or more we have other springs that can be used but cost twice as much.
Mar 2, 2008, 09:41 AM
#26
This is not so. The lift on ALL the HKS grinds is the same, and all are designed with the factory valvetrain in mind. FWIW, the longer duration cams are probably easier on the valvetrain if anything, all else being equal.
Last edited by Ted B; Mar 2, 2008 at 09:50 AM.
Mar 2, 2008, 09:47 AM
#27
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you change the plugs every 3000 miles? are you running copper plugs or iridium plugs? the copper plugs need to be replaced somewhat often, but i wouldn't think that often. the iridiums are good for a very long time.i've got 65,000 miles on my car 1st set of plugs i kept in until 15,000 miles when i did cams TBE, tune and a number of other mods,swapped the plugs out for 1 set colder. 2nd set i took out at 40k miles when one of them popped out of the cylinder head (the threads were backing out, one other plug was almost backed out as well). i'm on my 3rd set right now and it is still going strong. always iridium plugs. gap is in the .026 neighborhood.
Apr 29, 2008, 01:19 AM
#28
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Your running a bit too rich. I experience the same exact problem when I do fast shifts at high rpms. It will blurp then pull strong. I have stock cams and everything. Experienced it right after a walbro 255 replacement.
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