Water Pump Pulley
Feb 29, 2008, 07:57 AM
#4
itzwolf - thanks, I figured it can't hurt if it's lighter than OEM at all since I'm doing the crank anyway.
Davo - I have a Gruppe-S crank pulley sitting on my desk waiting for install, see here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...2&postcount=23
Davo - I have a Gruppe-S crank pulley sitting on my desk waiting for install, see here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...2&postcount=23
Feb 29, 2008, 09:17 AM
#5
I'm not sure exactly how mitsu goes about balancing the crank/pulley from the factory, but if it's designed to act as a balancer or dampener of sorts and is balanced with the crank I'm not sure if it's such a great idea to change the crank pulley. I know from personal experience with Honda engines that changing the crank pulley tends to wear out the main bearings really fast and in most cases usually ends up cracking the oil pump drive gears. Might be something to look at first before you change it to find out if it is balanced to it or not.
Feb 29, 2008, 09:49 AM
#6
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i ran the 4 pc unorthodox set on my sr20 for over 4 yrs with plenty 8k rpms and nitrous use
when engine was torn for a re-build the bottom end was perfect, the only things needing change was the valve seals
sr engines are internally balanced
as far as the evo engine goes, whats the real purpose of the balance shaft belt?
is there any relation between the crank pulley and the balance shaft belt
i may be misinformed but once the balance shaft is removed then the dampner is needed?
when engine was torn for a re-build the bottom end was perfect, the only things needing change was the valve seals
sr engines are internally balanced
as far as the evo engine goes, whats the real purpose of the balance shaft belt?
is there any relation between the crank pulley and the balance shaft belt
i may be misinformed but once the balance shaft is removed then the dampner is needed?
Feb 29, 2008, 09:54 AM
#7
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we're talking the water pump pulley right? I had mine in my hand last night, but didn't weigh it. My guess would be it weighs about as much as a beer. It's not very heavy, but a pain to get on/off.
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Feb 29, 2008, 11:51 AM
#8
Just got an email from Unorthodox Racing, according to them:
Also, Gruppe-S says the following about replacing the crank pulley:
as always, ymmv. dubbleugly01, how hard is it to do the swap (crank and water)? Any pointers before I start taking things apart 
? Thanks!
Factory water pulley weighs a little over 1 lb and our pulley weighs 1/2 lb
The Gruppe-S Crank Pulley is CNC Precision cut from 6061 Aluminum. The pulley is NOT underdrive but weighs less than 1 lbs (14.8oz) compared to the 4.5lbs stock pulley. This reduction in rotational mass yields substantial improvements in both engine performance and response. The Gruppe-S Crank Pulley will NOT cause problems with your engine. Despite rumors to the contrary, the early (1990's) 4G63's had machining issues with the Mitsubishi OEM crankshaft which was exacerbated by lightened flywheels and crank pulleys. The 4G63 EVO does NOT have this problem
? Thanks!
Feb 29, 2008, 03:42 PM
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you know I had this mechanic guy, a friend of a friend type of thing look at my car, he builds Corvette Race Engines, yeah I know not a Evo guy but he did build a 9 second Supra, but anyway, He looked at my Evo and said my Water Pump pulley looked like it was showing wear. I am like what? It only has 16K on the odometer? Anyway hear of these things wearing out or am I just lucky? or does this guy not know crap, haha.
Mar 1, 2008, 07:40 AM
#12
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The last time I looked at the damper I noticed it had fins on it - fins to move air. Why move air? Because the damper gets hot. Why does it get hot? From absorbing vibrations from the crank. Why does the crank vibrate? Because it is made of steel and had four pistons pounding on it.
At the rear of the engine there is the clutch to absorb some of the vibration, at the front, the damper.
No damper can lead to broken cranks and wiped bearings. Serious builders go to better dampers not plain pulleys.
At the rear of the engine there is the clutch to absorb some of the vibration, at the front, the damper.
No damper can lead to broken cranks and wiped bearings. Serious builders go to better dampers not plain pulleys.
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