fugiwara

iTrader: (124)

maybe set of bigger cams, how do you like HKS 272 now?
also, have you replace the motor and tranny mount in your engine, those are ususally overlooked and they give more response and less drive train loss.

Ami

The HKS Cams are well suited to the setup. They had to be dialed right back as allowing them to create a little bit more top end, means that cold start and idle where terrible due to there large overlap.

I have the Blox engine mount, which is unreal, shifts are sooo much better! highly recommended to anyone with a aftermarket clutch!

I think I will struggle to hit 11's with 346whp?

Thats why im wondering if the zig zagging boost curve is causing me to loose power?. Since there are a few guys here with FP Greens at 22psi on pump running 380whp.

RoadSpike

iTrader: (5)

Have you tried just a good ole fashioned MBC to see if that will flatten out your boost curve? Also I never did see a response to a boost leak test.

ETS Michael

iTrader: (91)

Ami,
Lots of good suggestions in this thread and you are on the right track for upgrades to get where you want on pump fuel. I'd be happy to discuss our turbo kit options with the HTA3076R with you as well as other small changes you can make to improve your potential on the current setup which is quite potent in its own right, so feel free to get a hold of me!

Tom

Ami

I haven't done a boost leak test. Will get one done shortly.

Ami

I had a look at some dyno graphs of the HTA3076R and the HTAGT35 and it seems that the 76 only has a minimal power gain between 4-5000rpm. So it seems like a HTA35R would be better since the top end is so much larger.

Both haver seem so laggy in compared to the green. As they produce about 50% less power at 4-5000rpm. Trying to find something with a 20-25% power loss down low and higher top end.

What is it like to drive a HTA35R on the street?

Im also worried that the massive torque increase with a laggy turbo will break the std evo IX gearbox or transfer case.

Ami

Spoke to the workshop and they have seen these zig zag on most of there cars. It seems to be the sensitivity of the New Dyno Dynamics Dynos.

So boost issue seems to be ok, since Im not really having any trouble building boost its just zig zagging due to the sensitivity of the dyno.

RoadSpike

iTrader: (5)

Your comparing the buschur test right?

He used a .84 AR turbine housing which made the lag on the turbo quite noticable. If you put a smaller AR housing on it the lag wouldn't be nearly as bad but it would cut into the top end. I guess its all into the goals of your car and what you desire to do with it.

Also on top of the housing your running a stroker motor which is going to spool around 500rpm faster to begin with. The question really is just going to be how much boost do you plan to run with it?

As for the torque thing a laggy turbo will burn up clutches but will not destroy a drivetrain unless you drop the clutch for a launch. Laggy turbos produce less low end torque where most of the "shock" factor which kills drivetrains will happen. Now I'm not taking in the drag launching techniques here I'm just assuming your gonna drive like any other sane individual.

ETS Michael

iTrader: (91)

Ami,
Both will be laggy compared to a Green or 50-trim turbo as we've seen a 700RPM spool difference between our 50-trim kit and the HTA3076R in another kit on the dyno. Slightly less boost on the 50-trim car made 20whp and 20wtq more than the HTA3076R car in the ~24psi range. Unless you plan to exceed 25-26psi for most of your EVO's use, you won't be taking advantage of a larger turbo's potential and peak efficiency range. 35Rs are definitely streetable but on lower boost don't make much sense compared to a smaller setup like you have now.

Tom

Ami

thanks for the info. Which leads me to the dillemma. Running 1.6bar am i better off changing turbo or keeping the one i have? to make a over all faster track and drag car.

Is there anything more i can do to increase power with the green?


Here is a full least of my mods that concern power:

JUN 2.2lt kit
ARP studs
HKS 272 in and out cams
HKS Cam gear
HKS Hi power silent cat back
test pipe
HKS GT Pipe (Dump+Front)
Koyo Radiator
880cc ball bearing injectors
fuel rail
255lph fuel pump
Trust Type R front mount
Trust Lower and upper intercooler piping (heat wraped)
MR Bov
FP Green turbo with high pressure actuator
Exedy twin plate clutch
Ported std cast ex manifold
Apexi pod filter
Motec M800 + Apexi AVCR(to change the boost from inside the car)

I think thats about it! :-)

ETS Michael

iTrader: (91)

In that boost range you won't do better with a larger turbo as it would take more boost to take advantage of a larger turbo's peak compressor efficiency. You've got a complete mod list for all the good power adders so short of more boost and a retune there won't be a whole lot left you can squeeze out of that setup at 1.6bar.

Tom

RoadSpike

iTrader: (5)

He is running around with 98 RON thats gotta be close to the 94 octane we have here in the states. I think he could do 25psi and probably even more since we are seeing the crazy tunes from Buschur with 30psi on 93.

Erik@MIL.SPEC

iTrader: (94)

I do

It would require you sending us your TB however, as the JDM and EDM cars have 3 connections on top of the TB and the USDM cars only have 2. Otherwise, we could swap them.

ETS Michael

iTrader: (91)

Yeah I'd agree that turning up the boost is the way to go, but with how much timing needs to be backed off to achieve such high boost pressures on pump fuel feel that he'd do well to keep things relatively conservative especially for the type of racing he's doing. More boost would definitely be better

Tom

jmartinez1170

iTrader: (21)

I would say just go with a HTA35 kit and swap cams with something better then hks. You wont even notice the lag. Its not like your driving your car around below 3000rpm i sure dont.