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can't get clean shifts, exedy twin disc clutch dragging

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Old Sep 14, 2011, 04:41 AM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by Boltz.
Through my own painful experience I can provide insight and essentially give the final answer for this thread.

The problem is the outer, intermediate plate right before the purple cover. You can destroy this plate through warping with hardly even wearing the clutch discs. I drive my car very hard but my driving technique provides limited wear on a clutch for whatever reason. You can tell buy looking at my disassembled clutches, they never have any discoloration from heat marks like you see with most used exedy's (yellowish purplish plates). This intermediate plate can cause all of the disengagement problems you can think of and it requires a complete R&R'ing of the clutch which is very expensive in labor. You can warp this plate easily as doing one single launch.

I know this because I had all of the problems everyone had here. I have rebuilt my exedy twin HD probably 4 different times and I have never ever had much disc wear at all, just a warped outer intermediate plate.


Bolded to help people sift through the dust.
That's what I needed to know. Thank you very much! If I factor in the price of selling my used Exedy, it's just as much money to buy a new ACT Street Disc/Flywheel. I will update with my own experiences when I can.
Old Sep 15, 2011, 06:01 PM
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this is why i am going to try the new carbonetics blade clutch instead of another twin
Old Sep 16, 2011, 09:26 AM
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I'm on my second Exedy twin and not a single issue to date. I've had my car for 4 years. They may not last long but I haven't had a single issue with mine.
Old Sep 16, 2011, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by milford
this is why i am going to try the new carbonetics blade clutch instead of another twin
How much power can these new blade clutches handle??
Old Sep 16, 2011, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Mellon Racing
best I could tell that was the case with mine, it was just worn out.



gotta save those pennies! buy yeah they are crazy expensive. The rebuilds are running me about 2000 each year. It's part of racing.
That is insane! That doesn't seem like a viable option for most people.

There are plenty of clutches out there I'm sure that can shift fast and at high rpm's but don't cost you your life savings rebuilding clutches every year.

I saw you said gary tried the triple carbon and couldn't power shift. That doesn't mean its the clutches fault. Maybe it needs adjusted or maybe he just needs to try harder.
Old Sep 16, 2011, 11:07 AM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by project_skyline
That is insane! That doesn't seem like a viable option for most people.

There are plenty of clutches out there I'm sure that can shift fast and at high rpm's but don't cost you your life savings rebuilding clutches every year.

I saw you said gary tried the triple carbon and couldn't power shift. That doesn't mean its the clutches fault. Maybe it needs adjusted or maybe he just needs to try harder.
I agree it's expensive

It may not be the clutches fault but no amount of adjustments helped and I was driving it myself and it didn't work. I can powershift my tilton all day long and rarely ever miss a gear for what it's worth.
Old Sep 17, 2011, 12:19 AM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by Boltz.
Through my own painful experience I can provide insight and essentially give the final answer for this thread.

The problem is the outer, intermediate plate right before the purple cover. You can destroy this plate through warping with hardly even wearing the clutch discs. I drive my car very hard but my driving technique provides limited wear on a clutch for whatever reason. You can tell buy looking at my disassembled clutches, they never have any discoloration from heat marks like you see with most used exedy's (yellowish purplish plates). This intermediate plate can cause all of the disengagement problems you can think of and it requires a complete R&R'ing of the clutch which is very expensive in labor. You can warp this plate easily as doing one single launch.

I know this because I had all of the problems everyone had here. I have rebuilt my exedy twin HD probably 4 different times and I have never ever had much disc wear at all, just a warped outer intermediate plate.


Bolded to help people sift through the dust.
Hey Boltz, Thanks for your post. I have the same issue with my 2005 EVO MR right now. I plan to order the intermediate plate and two clutch disks for my EXEDY Twin clutch. How many hours of labor should it take for a tuner shop to swap out the old for the new set ?I'm trying to shop around for labor cost and want to have an idea.
Old Sep 17, 2011, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Mellon Racing
I agree it's expensive

It may not be the clutches fault but no amount of adjustments helped and I was driving it myself and it didn't work. I can powershift my tilton all day long and rarely ever miss a gear for what it's worth.
Interesting.

I'm going to try the new comp twin, hopefully it can shift as fast as I can.
Old Sep 17, 2011, 11:19 AM
  #174  
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sounds to me like you could prolly use a polyurethane front motor mount, or mayeb a steering torque dampener, i know with mine before my ingalls torque dampener my shifts werent as crisp a little notchy at times, but with that dampener, it improved a lot, with a little dash vibration at higher speeds. but small price to pay for better shifting.
Old May 24, 2017, 07:35 PM
  #175  
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bumping an old thread Bcuz i read this on Jacks Trans Website

**EXEDY TWIN DISK CLUTCH WARNING**
We have noticed a problem with the Exedy twin disk units for the EVO 8-9 that people are mistaking for a trans problem. If you are using an Exedy twin disk clutch, please note some have a problem of sticking at idle when the clutch is depressed which will cause the trans to feel terribly notchy when shifting into gear from a stop. This is happening due to insufficient floater plate to basket clearance. The floater is cast and the basket is not. The difference in materials cause the assembly to stick when the vehicle warms up as the parts are expanding at different rates, so the floater will not let go of the disk and cause a low RPM clutch drag issue. To prevent this problem we recommend the following before installing our trans when using the Exedy twin disk:

1)Disassemble the clutch assembly.
2)Polish the area on the basket that makes contact with the floater (the arms).
3)Polish each side of the arms around the basket thoroughly.

This will prevent the floater from sticking by adding more clearance and a nice polished smooth surface for the floater to make contact with. When done correctly, your new trans will shift perfectly at low RPM!
Old May 29, 2017, 12:46 AM
  #176  
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Had this issue on an Evo X... Discs were brand new, clutch cover, pressure plate. Only thing that was reused was the flywheel, and the clutch would drag no matter what I did.

Changed the master, changed the slave, bled 100 times. Same problem.
I just removed the transmission and sent the flywheel to get resurfaced, and will do as they suggested as well.
Old May 30, 2017, 05:45 AM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by Evo9_Dubai
Had this issue on an Evo X... Discs were brand new, clutch cover, pressure plate. Only thing that was reused was the flywheel, and the clutch would drag no matter what I did.

Changed the master, changed the slave, bled 100 times. Same problem.
I just removed the transmission and sent the flywheel to get resurfaced, and will do as they suggested as well.
i am facing exact same problem i have changed everything only the flywheel was reused.. while driving it's fine but while the car on idle i feel like it's locked and can't shift unless i force the shifter. could you please send me your phone number to contact you i am living in abu dhabi.
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