can't get clean shifts, exedy twin disc clutch dragging
#166
Evolved Member
iTrader: (44)
Through my own painful experience I can provide insight and essentially give the final answer for this thread.
The problem is the outer, intermediate plate right before the purple cover. You can destroy this plate through warping with hardly even wearing the clutch discs. I drive my car very hard but my driving technique provides limited wear on a clutch for whatever reason. You can tell buy looking at my disassembled clutches, they never have any discoloration from heat marks like you see with most used exedy's (yellowish purplish plates). This intermediate plate can cause all of the disengagement problems you can think of and it requires a complete R&R'ing of the clutch which is very expensive in labor. You can warp this plate easily as doing one single launch.
I know this because I had all of the problems everyone had here. I have rebuilt my exedy twin HD probably 4 different times and I have never ever had much disc wear at all, just a warped outer intermediate plate.
Bolded to help people sift through the dust.
The problem is the outer, intermediate plate right before the purple cover. You can destroy this plate through warping with hardly even wearing the clutch discs. I drive my car very hard but my driving technique provides limited wear on a clutch for whatever reason. You can tell buy looking at my disassembled clutches, they never have any discoloration from heat marks like you see with most used exedy's (yellowish purplish plates). This intermediate plate can cause all of the disengagement problems you can think of and it requires a complete R&R'ing of the clutch which is very expensive in labor. You can warp this plate easily as doing one single launch.
I know this because I had all of the problems everyone had here. I have rebuilt my exedy twin HD probably 4 different times and I have never ever had much disc wear at all, just a warped outer intermediate plate.
Bolded to help people sift through the dust.
#170
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There are plenty of clutches out there I'm sure that can shift fast and at high rpm's but don't cost you your life savings rebuilding clutches every year.
I saw you said gary tried the triple carbon and couldn't power shift. That doesn't mean its the clutches fault. Maybe it needs adjusted or maybe he just needs to try harder.
#171
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That is insane! That doesn't seem like a viable option for most people.
There are plenty of clutches out there I'm sure that can shift fast and at high rpm's but don't cost you your life savings rebuilding clutches every year.
I saw you said gary tried the triple carbon and couldn't power shift. That doesn't mean its the clutches fault. Maybe it needs adjusted or maybe he just needs to try harder.
There are plenty of clutches out there I'm sure that can shift fast and at high rpm's but don't cost you your life savings rebuilding clutches every year.
I saw you said gary tried the triple carbon and couldn't power shift. That doesn't mean its the clutches fault. Maybe it needs adjusted or maybe he just needs to try harder.
It may not be the clutches fault but no amount of adjustments helped and I was driving it myself and it didn't work. I can powershift my tilton all day long and rarely ever miss a gear for what it's worth.
#172
Through my own painful experience I can provide insight and essentially give the final answer for this thread.
The problem is the outer, intermediate plate right before the purple cover. You can destroy this plate through warping with hardly even wearing the clutch discs. I drive my car very hard but my driving technique provides limited wear on a clutch for whatever reason. You can tell buy looking at my disassembled clutches, they never have any discoloration from heat marks like you see with most used exedy's (yellowish purplish plates). This intermediate plate can cause all of the disengagement problems you can think of and it requires a complete R&R'ing of the clutch which is very expensive in labor. You can warp this plate easily as doing one single launch.
I know this because I had all of the problems everyone had here. I have rebuilt my exedy twin HD probably 4 different times and I have never ever had much disc wear at all, just a warped outer intermediate plate.
Bolded to help people sift through the dust.
The problem is the outer, intermediate plate right before the purple cover. You can destroy this plate through warping with hardly even wearing the clutch discs. I drive my car very hard but my driving technique provides limited wear on a clutch for whatever reason. You can tell buy looking at my disassembled clutches, they never have any discoloration from heat marks like you see with most used exedy's (yellowish purplish plates). This intermediate plate can cause all of the disengagement problems you can think of and it requires a complete R&R'ing of the clutch which is very expensive in labor. You can warp this plate easily as doing one single launch.
I know this because I had all of the problems everyone had here. I have rebuilt my exedy twin HD probably 4 different times and I have never ever had much disc wear at all, just a warped outer intermediate plate.
Bolded to help people sift through the dust.
#174
Evolved Member
sounds to me like you could prolly use a polyurethane front motor mount, or mayeb a steering torque dampener, i know with mine before my ingalls torque dampener my shifts werent as crisp a little notchy at times, but with that dampener, it improved a lot, with a little dash vibration at higher speeds. but small price to pay for better shifting.
#175
Evolving Member
bumping an old thread Bcuz i read this on Jacks Trans Website
**EXEDY TWIN DISK CLUTCH WARNING**
We have noticed a problem with the Exedy twin disk units for the EVO 8-9 that people are mistaking for a trans problem. If you are using an Exedy twin disk clutch, please note some have a problem of sticking at idle when the clutch is depressed which will cause the trans to feel terribly notchy when shifting into gear from a stop. This is happening due to insufficient floater plate to basket clearance. The floater is cast and the basket is not. The difference in materials cause the assembly to stick when the vehicle warms up as the parts are expanding at different rates, so the floater will not let go of the disk and cause a low RPM clutch drag issue. To prevent this problem we recommend the following before installing our trans when using the Exedy twin disk:
1)Disassemble the clutch assembly.
2)Polish the area on the basket that makes contact with the floater (the arms).
3)Polish each side of the arms around the basket thoroughly.
This will prevent the floater from sticking by adding more clearance and a nice polished smooth surface for the floater to make contact with. When done correctly, your new trans will shift perfectly at low RPM!
**EXEDY TWIN DISK CLUTCH WARNING**
We have noticed a problem with the Exedy twin disk units for the EVO 8-9 that people are mistaking for a trans problem. If you are using an Exedy twin disk clutch, please note some have a problem of sticking at idle when the clutch is depressed which will cause the trans to feel terribly notchy when shifting into gear from a stop. This is happening due to insufficient floater plate to basket clearance. The floater is cast and the basket is not. The difference in materials cause the assembly to stick when the vehicle warms up as the parts are expanding at different rates, so the floater will not let go of the disk and cause a low RPM clutch drag issue. To prevent this problem we recommend the following before installing our trans when using the Exedy twin disk:
1)Disassemble the clutch assembly.
2)Polish the area on the basket that makes contact with the floater (the arms).
3)Polish each side of the arms around the basket thoroughly.
This will prevent the floater from sticking by adding more clearance and a nice polished smooth surface for the floater to make contact with. When done correctly, your new trans will shift perfectly at low RPM!
#176
Evolving Member
Had this issue on an Evo X... Discs were brand new, clutch cover, pressure plate. Only thing that was reused was the flywheel, and the clutch would drag no matter what I did.
Changed the master, changed the slave, bled 100 times. Same problem.
I just removed the transmission and sent the flywheel to get resurfaced, and will do as they suggested as well.
Changed the master, changed the slave, bled 100 times. Same problem.
I just removed the transmission and sent the flywheel to get resurfaced, and will do as they suggested as well.
#177
Had this issue on an Evo X... Discs were brand new, clutch cover, pressure plate. Only thing that was reused was the flywheel, and the clutch would drag no matter what I did.
Changed the master, changed the slave, bled 100 times. Same problem.
I just removed the transmission and sent the flywheel to get resurfaced, and will do as they suggested as well.
Changed the master, changed the slave, bled 100 times. Same problem.
I just removed the transmission and sent the flywheel to get resurfaced, and will do as they suggested as well.
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