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stroker kit or built block

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Old Jun 4, 2008, 08:52 AM
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stroker kit or built block

Couple questions on comparison.

Bang for the buck?
Power differences?
Safety?
Reliability?
Which brand?
Personal Experiences?

The Buschur cars are running their own built blocks of course and are making good power and seem to be safe, but there are also some great cars running stroker kits with the stock block which seem pretty well put together. So is it worth paying $1000+ for a built block over a stroker? Just a thought.
POWER
Old Jun 4, 2008, 09:01 AM
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I had an AMS 2.3 stroker kit and I had zero issues with it. Very fun spool up, and the kit was beautifully put together. You will notice a huge increase in torque with the stroker kit. Are you going to upgrade to a turbo bigger than a 35R at any point?

If you do, then a built 2.0 or a 2.1 liter is the way to go because of the high revving.

If you are looking at a green, 50 trim to a 35R on a stroker kit are amazing setups.

I would vote stroker kit especially for an everyday car and if you were looking for a smaller turbo upgrade.
Old Jun 4, 2008, 09:28 AM
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im lost....what's the difference between a built block and a stroker. arent you upgrading the block (usually) with uprated components when doing a stroker? so doesnt that make it a "built" block. im confused by your use of the word.

i had a complete long block done by JAM and its nothing short of amazing so far. fully machined p&p head oversize valves...etc. 2.3l is great for generating that DD torque down low and allows for a significant turbo upgrade. i guess it really depends on what your goals are for the car.
Old Jun 4, 2008, 09:39 AM
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It really depends on what you want outta the car. Like said before if you want a 35r or more a 2.0ltr would be a good choice because of the revving capability. If your more of a road racer/autox a 2.3ltr would help pull you outta the corners alot quicker with the gain of tq.
Old Jun 4, 2008, 09:45 AM
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They are about the same price in the end.

I think the 2.3 makes the car more fun to drive because of the added torque, and quicker spool up. The only downfall is you can't rev the 2.3 as high, Unless you get the ams 2.3rr.
Old Jun 4, 2008, 10:10 AM
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i dont really see all the fuss of having an incredibly high upper revlimit is. i mean it sounds cool to say i can spin my engine to 10k, but really, are you making any power there?

once again what are your goals? pure drag machine where some ginormous turbo only begins to make power over 8k rpm? daily driver with the occasional run at the drag strip? dd with occasional track day? autocrosser? see where im getting? 2.3 can go to 8k rpm with care, is the turbo you are going to choose going to be efficient there or will it taper off before that level of rpm? will you ever use that rev range? do you need low end grunt or top speed?
Old Jun 4, 2008, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by mostH8D
i dont really see all the fuss of having an incredibly high upper revlimit is. i mean it sounds cool to say i can spin my engine to 10k, but really, are you making any power there?

once again what are your goals? pure drag machine where some ginormous turbo only begins to make power over 8k rpm? daily driver with the occasional run at the drag strip? dd with occasional track day? autocrosser? see where im getting? 2.3 can go to 8k rpm with care, is the turbo you are going to choose going to be efficient there or will it taper off before that level of rpm? will you ever use that rev range? do you need low end grunt or top speed?
I am with you on that. After having a 2.3 I would not want to go back to a 2.0.

Even with a 35r on a 2.0, most cars will not be making more power after 9k anyways.
Old Jun 4, 2008, 11:19 AM
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go with the built 2.3 or 2.4. once you drive a stroker evo you will not want to go back to a 2.0.

only go with the built 2.0 if your car is a 100% drag car. the added displacement is way more fun on the street
Old Jun 4, 2008, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mostH8D
im lost....what's the difference between a built block and a stroker. arent you upgrading the block (usually) with uprated components when doing a stroker? so doesnt that make it a "built" block. im confused by your use of the word.

i had a complete long block done by JAM and its nothing short of amazing so far. fully machined p&p head oversize valves...etc. 2.3l is great for generating that DD torque down low and allows for a significant turbo upgrade. i guess it really depends on what your goals are for the car.
What I was trying to say was that in a stroker you only get the components and change only the components, an already built block like the buschur or the AMS one, includes the whole brand new upgraded block.

Also, Im just looking for a high-powered daily driver, with a trip to the track once a week.
Old Jun 4, 2008, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 2003lancerevo8
I had an AMS 2.3 stroker kit and I had zero issues with it. Very fun spool up, and the kit was beautifully put together. You will notice a huge increase in torque with the stroker kit. Are you going to upgrade to a turbo bigger than a 35R at any point?

If you do, then a built 2.0 or a 2.1 liter is the way to go because of the high revving.

If you are looking at a green, 50 trim to a 35R on a stroker kit are amazing setups.

I would vote stroker kit especially for an everyday car and if you were looking for a smaller turbo upgrade.
Great advice. I think the biggest factor is your turbo choice.
Old Jun 4, 2008, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by aka.ralliart15
What I was trying to say was that in a stroker you only get the components and change only the components, an already built block like the buschur or the AMS one, includes the whole brand new upgraded block.

Also, Im just looking for a high-powered daily driver, with a trip to the track once a week.
Um I think there is some confusion here, A built block can mean either a 2.0 or a 2.3/2.4. All it means is the bottom end like the rods, pistons are aftermarket and able to withstand more HP. On a built 2.0 the OEM crank is kept unless you specfically ask for a new one. The stock crank is good to 1000hp. it's the rods that let go and go through your block.

As far as I know if you buy a motor from AMS or JAM you need to send them your motor first then they build your motor, clean it up all pretty and send it back to you. Now in some shops they have spare motors. (just like yours, but from someone elses car) and they build that motor and send it to you and keep your block for the next customer.
Old Jun 4, 2008, 11:49 AM
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If you say stroker then we can assume that you mean it's not the stock 2.0, hence the word stroker. But if you say I have a built motor that leaves it open for a 2.0 or stroker.
Old Jun 4, 2008, 01:49 PM
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a block is a block...machined or not. its not really built. its all the inside stuff that matters...unless its something like the rb26 n1 block (24u) versus the rb26 standard block (05u) version which i have never heard of mitsu offering that sort of thing.
Old Jun 4, 2008, 02:00 PM
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I'll be doing the built 2.0 because i'm not racing anyone under 4000rpm on the drag strip and on the street I downshift and brake boost at 4500 if necessary. When you start trapping 125mph+ in the 1/4 you're going to need to do something to keep from having to shift to 5th gear... I'm already holding it to 8500 in 4th as it is and I plan on adding another 100-200awhp soon so a stroker is out of the question for me personally.

I'm not saying you can't go fast with a stroker in the 1/4 mile though, it's been done...taller tires and gear changes can make it happen.
Old Jun 4, 2008, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Mellon
I'll be doing the built 2.0 because i'm not racing anyone under 4000rpm on the drag strip and on the street I downshift and brake boost at 4500 if necessary. When you start trapping 125mph+ in the 1/4 you're going to need to do something to keep from having to shift to 5th gear... I'm already holding it to 8500 in 4th as it is and I plan on adding another 100-200awhp soon so a stroker is out of the question for me personally.

I'm not saying you can't go fast with a stroker in the 1/4 mile though, it's been done...taller tires and gear changes can make it happen.
+1 on Mellons points.

You can have a 2.3 run thru the traps at high speeds without huge rpm. But it will require at the least an upgrade to a 4.11 final drive. Which will add significant cost to ones build.

Of course all this considering that you are running a larger turbo , say 35R or bigger


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