I believe there is baffling in that can too. Tony is the man.

David, I agree. Any car that is pushing enough boost to warrant crankcase breather mods should be having oil changes frequently enough for the vapor issue not to matter. Just playing devil's advocate.

Most people I know that run these massive 4 line systems also just use cheap oil and change it before every visit to the track. I wouldn't really consider that 4 line setup a street car type setup.

 

I agree that oil changes should be more frequent on race car applications than street car applications, but on extreme race car applications, the engine is rebuilt multiple times a season as well.

I'm not trying to argue with David at all, as I think his testing and product development are second to none, but even David mentioned issues with the 'white, milky' substance on his oil cap. I don't know if he was referencing his car that has both lines vented or not, but these are the type of situations that I am trying to save some people from having to deal with.

A lot of people buy things to just buy them without realizing how it applies to their car. A dedicated race car and a street car are two totally different animals and what can apply to one doesn't necessarily apply to the other.

I applaud Dave for his continuing thoughts and innovations, but with this particular development, I am just trying to give another point of view. If David and anyone buying the part read what I had to say and concludes that it doesn't matter, so be it. I don't really care...I'm just contributing to the conversation as well.


Eric

 

Well I'm glad to have read this thread and got everyones opinions on this subject.

From when I researched this about a year ago and then again now... it seems to me the ideal solution for myself is to draw vaccum through the exhaust system. I was looking at this item in the past:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

And then maybe have the vacuum source from the exhaust go to a catch can first?

I think I'm gonna give it a try and maybe buy an extra map sensor and try recording crankcase pressure to see what result I get from the added vacuum since right now I'm just VTA. I just don't like the idea of drawing all those nasty gasses into the intake.

 

crcain, I tried that a few years ago. It didn't work and I don't feel it will work for you either. If I remember correctly the valve is a one way check valve and I think I have had problems with them failing from heat and the other problem is the valve will not open when the car is under high boost from the back pressure in the exhaust system. So then the breathers don't work at all when you need them at high boost. This is if my memory serves me correctly as the testing was years and years and years ago and I used no gauges or anything else, they just didn't work. Looking back on it I feel the issue was exhaust back pressure keeping that one way valve closed when the car was in boost.

 

Dave, I read all your posts in this thread. I was wondering, will the car through a CEL for disconnecting the pcv system and using your can. If you answerd this, just someone point me to the page. Thanks!

 

I run those valves on some cars i do, only real issue that ive experienced is heat. It didn't last long on my daily driver, switched it out to an earl's check valve (rather expensive ~$120 ish) and no problems. We have another car that is running them now that i plan on testing vs. a vent to atmosphere style catch can

 

Wow ok thanks Dave it was gonna be a chunk of work to try it and now that you say that I'll probably pass on the idea. Thanks for the advice.

 

Quick question... I currently run the side breather nipple to a simple K&N crankcase breather filter. I run the rear PCV port to a catch can, and the other port of the catch can to another K&N crankcase breather filter.

Now my question is, I removed the ball spring part of the stock PCV valve, and I still use it. But it's internal diameter is rather small. Does anyone sell a nipple type fitting the replaces the PCV valve so I can run larger diameter hosing and fitting for that back port?

 

K-Powa!!!



I'll be running one of these setups when Buschur releases it.

-Jalal

 

I've ran one of the exhaust scavenges on an MR2. I think the key to getting them to work is that they need to be very near the end of the exhaust to avoid exhaust backpressure holding them closed. They work on the principle of the Bernoulli effect which the dynamic pressure can be fairly significant. But your static pressure in the exhaust still has to be lower then the pressure in the crankcase plus the pressure needed to open the valve.

It worked well on the MR2 simply because I was able to put it about 18" from the end of the exhaust without running a long line since the car is rear engine and a full exhaust is about 4' long. They are likely a valuable option for a drag car that is running a short exhaust. On a street car with a full exhaust, I don't see them working nearly as well.

Also, the heat is a huge issue as mentioned. The oil cooks in the valve under light throttle and will quickly gum up the valve. Those moroso valves mount directly to the exhaust and experience conductive heating. I think the best way to deal with this is to simply get a 1-way inline valve that can be mounted away from the exhaust nozzle and isolated from the conductive heating.

 

I wish someone would design and make a catch can set up like this for the evo! I know 5 people that run this setup on there hondas and talking nothing but good things about it, it is a very well designed catch can

 

I know I'm new here but I recently purchased a GT30r Evo MR and one of the first things I was thinking of doing to this car was a catch can setup (Current setup is stock). I have talked with Tony and he just needs dimensions and he'll build it for you and put the fittings where ever you want them as well as size AN.

These cans work very well on Hondas. Tony special made this for himself as he had 2 cans like this (below link) that were filling up. Then again, he is making ~850whp (last time I remember). Now I think it sells pretty well for him too.

http://www.theoldone.com/components/breather/

I use the Endyn (www.theoldone.com) breather as I was only making ~450whp on my Civic. It works great with 2 ports on the valve cover (behind the baffle) and it drains to the block. The honda blocks have places where you can buy fittings and screw them in and drain to the block just like it does stock. I thought about even getting one of Endyn's cans again and using it on the evo. It is big and my civic still has it anyone wants me to measure.
Here is the can on my car.


Venting to the Atmosphere works awesome on Hondas so why wouldn't it work on the Evos (Besides the obvious Environmental issue but we don't have that here where I live)? My thought was to attempt to find a used valve cover and have some fittings welded on the valve cover. Any reason why this would not work?

Most in the honda world do 2 rear fittings in the valve cover and it is sufficient for most, however, adding more isn't that much more expensive and it only helps so adding 2 more in front of the valve cover running to the same can is how you see Tony built it. What we do know is that venting the block doesn't work well (this is how I use to have mine). Just didn't seem like it vented as well thus the reason for us to use the valve cover and just drain to the block.

My buddy recently upgraded his SR20 Silvia to a Full-Race Twin Scroll 30R and I showed him the T1 can and he immediately had Tony build him a custom one. All 4 ports on the can come from the valve cover and he does NOT drain his as there really isn't a place to properly drain on this engine.




Sorry for the long post but I wanted to get everything in there at once.
First thing I need to do is get a small battery setup before I do anything if anyone has a recommendation.

 

Aluminum bungs won't weld on too well

 

Today we ran my car at the Import Showoff event here at D42. Won the event. Slowest pass of the day was a 9.7, quickest was 9.54. Track conditions were pretty poor. The car made atleast 6 passes, most of which had MPH in the 155 range and a new best of 155.78.

I pulled the hose off the catch can going to the inlet of the turbo, 100% completely BONE dry of any oil or residue.

For those of you that wish to advertise your catch can ideas and such, please get your own thread started. Thanks.

 

BUMP

Nice times by the way Mr Buschur.