Additional Parts Needed for AMS GT35RL Kit?
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Additional Parts Needed for AMS GT35RL Kit?
After finally making the decision to go with the GT35RL Kit from AMS, I'm wondering if there are any additional parts needed to get the most out of my setup safely and reliably. This doesn't necessarily mean getting the MAX HP/Torque out of the setup, but merely the most HP/Torque out of the setup safely.
According to AMS, the part list includes:
-304 Stainless Steel Thick Wall Header
-AMS Intake
-Additional Radiator Fan
-Turbo Support bracket
-True Dual Ball Bearing Turbo
-Recirculated Wastegate Dump with an industry first slip fit section that prevents cracking due to heat and engine movement
-38mm Wastegate
-NORDLOCK one way locking washers, preventing the O2 housing bolts from backing out under racing conditions.
-High Quality Hardware & 4 ply Silicon Couplers
In addition, the kit states that AMS downpipe is meant to bolt up only to the AMS made catback or wielding is required. As of now, i've decided to keep my Apexi N1 Catback and wield it to the downpipe as instructed.
That being said, what additional parts would be needed to ensure the safety of my setup? So far, replacing the fuel pump, injectors, fuel rails are what I have in mind. Would replacing the stock FMIC and upgrading the pistons (or anything else internal) be necessary as well?
Currently, the mods on my vehicle include:
Injen Short Ram Intake
Injen Upper Intercooler Piping
Apexi N1 TBE
Turbosmart BOV
With the exception of the catback, I think most of these parts listed are going to be replaced.
For reference, the kit can be found here:
http://www.amsperformance.com/store/...roducts_id=488
According to AMS, the part list includes:
-304 Stainless Steel Thick Wall Header
-AMS Intake
-Additional Radiator Fan
-Turbo Support bracket
-True Dual Ball Bearing Turbo
-Recirculated Wastegate Dump with an industry first slip fit section that prevents cracking due to heat and engine movement
-38mm Wastegate
-NORDLOCK one way locking washers, preventing the O2 housing bolts from backing out under racing conditions.
-High Quality Hardware & 4 ply Silicon Couplers
In addition, the kit states that AMS downpipe is meant to bolt up only to the AMS made catback or wielding is required. As of now, i've decided to keep my Apexi N1 Catback and wield it to the downpipe as instructed.
That being said, what additional parts would be needed to ensure the safety of my setup? So far, replacing the fuel pump, injectors, fuel rails are what I have in mind. Would replacing the stock FMIC and upgrading the pistons (or anything else internal) be necessary as well?
Currently, the mods on my vehicle include:
Injen Short Ram Intake
Injen Upper Intercooler Piping
Apexi N1 TBE
Turbosmart BOV
With the exception of the catback, I think most of these parts listed are going to be replaced.
For reference, the kit can be found here:
http://www.amsperformance.com/store/...roducts_id=488
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Fuel pump, injectors and a tune. A FMIC would be a big help to HP and keeping MAT temps down.
Dont weld the exhaust to the down pipe. Have an adapter pipe made to go between the two.
Dont weld the exhaust to the down pipe. Have an adapter pipe made to go between the two.
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Other than what Ivan listed (fuel pump, injectors, tune), there isn't anything you need. Some stuff that you may want, though, and the pros and cons associated with it:
1.) FMIC - pros: lower temps, more power, better spool - cons: none AFAIK
2.) Cams - pros: significantly more power than stock - cons: you will lose a little bit of spoolup, depending on the cam
3.) Springs and retainers - pros: allows you to rev your engine higher (how high depends on other mods) and allows you to run higher lift cams - cons: none AFAIK
4.) Built internals (2.0L or 2.3L) - pros: will allow you to utilize the 35R to its full potential. A built 2.0L via higher revs, a built 2.3L via higher displacement (same as stock revs) - cons: Your stock ECU may start to pickup phantom knock, which will rob you of power and spoolup
5.) Better intake manifold - pros: more power across the entire rev range - cons: will probably lose 100-200 RPM spoolup
6.) Ported head - pros: more power - cons: none, AFAIK
As a point of reference, I run an AMS 50 trim kit, with all of the mods listed above and a few others.
l8r)
1.) FMIC - pros: lower temps, more power, better spool - cons: none AFAIK
2.) Cams - pros: significantly more power than stock - cons: you will lose a little bit of spoolup, depending on the cam
3.) Springs and retainers - pros: allows you to rev your engine higher (how high depends on other mods) and allows you to run higher lift cams - cons: none AFAIK
4.) Built internals (2.0L or 2.3L) - pros: will allow you to utilize the 35R to its full potential. A built 2.0L via higher revs, a built 2.3L via higher displacement (same as stock revs) - cons: Your stock ECU may start to pickup phantom knock, which will rob you of power and spoolup
5.) Better intake manifold - pros: more power across the entire rev range - cons: will probably lose 100-200 RPM spoolup
6.) Ported head - pros: more power - cons: none, AFAIK
As a point of reference, I run an AMS 50 trim kit, with all of the mods listed above and a few others.
l8r)
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Thanks for the suggestions and info guys, i'm probably gonna look into it a little more. If anyone else has any other suggestions about this or a different route let me know. i guess my goal is to make about 400-450 whp on a stock block w/ small internal work and all bolt ons.
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