jamie_v1

Has anyone got any pictures of where to apply the epoxy resin to to give the maf honeycomb more support thanks in advance

Jedi_Gill

iTrader: (25)

More Support?? why would you think it needs more support? It's designed to let air flow through it. If you're planning on putting a big turbo you should remove the maf otherwise it will suck it and crush it. MAF support is good enough.. Just curious why you feel you need to apply epoxy?

jamie_v1

I have seen some cases on here where the honeycomb has imploded when fitting larger turbos and it is advised that epoxy is applied to the edge of the honeycomb to hold it in place.

I am retaining the maf so i can use the stock ecu i will be fitting a blow through maf in the future but want to give the stock maf a extra saftey margin

zbomb

iTrader: (48)

Seems like a good question to ask to me. I know it's been done by more than a few on the forum and would be interested in the tecniques they used.

scorke

iTrader: (18)

On big turbos, 35R or bigger or right around that size you are moving enough air, fast enough to literally make the honeycomb crush in on itself.

You epoxy the edges to the side of the maf to ensure that this does not happen, you leave the honeycomb in there becaue it effects the way the sensor reads the charge air, without it your readings in terms of airflow will not be as accurate as they would with it.

Scorke

jamie_v1

Am i right in thinking u apply the epoxy to the side that faces the air filter as it would be very difficult to apply it on the other side of the honeycomb

scorke

iTrader: (18)

Correct

What I have seen done is if you can delicately remove it do that, lay a bead all the way along the inside of the maf slightly higher up than where the maf sits then when you push it into place it should keep the sucker in there for good. For safe keeping if you can do it neatly enough run a tiny bead along the face of the edge of the honeycomb and maf.

Scorke

Smogrunner

iTrader: (5)

The circumstances why mine was crushed: 540whp/494wtq on a dynojet with the standard AMS turbo kit. The MAF screen crushed during street driving, not on the dyno. Upon closer inspection of the diverter valve recirculation plumbing on the AMS kit's intake pipe, we decided that it was too close to the MAF screen AND not angled adequately TOWARDS the compressor inlet. I know most ams kits are sold for AEM EMS, but it would be nice if the AMS DV inlet was angled more like this intake pipe which is almost the same as what I am running today (TTech stealth turbo kit0:



This is what it looked like after it died...



What we did: Two things. First, we just extended the distance between the MAF to the point where the diverter valve dumps into the intake piping. These few inches of extra length were done by adding a longer silicon coupler than comes with the kit. This has the result of putting the end of the K&N cone all the way between the Intercooler filler bottle and the fuse box. This pic is at the wrong angle, but you can kinda see how it entends further than the standard kit intake:



Next, we carefully took out the MAF screen out, scuffed the edges of the maf screen housing with some high abrasive scotch brite pad, and added a thick layer of good epoxy glue there and on the edges of the screen. We replaced the screen, let it set/dry and were done. I can't remember the exact type of epoxy glue, but it was some good stuff. If you look really closely, you can see how the edge of the screen has the glue. (bottom and right side)



Also, if the screen has a few bent honeycombs, that would contribute to its failure, imho.

Results: So far, about 80 dyno pulls, many in the mid to high 500whp with no problem. Two trips to the drag races with no problems, where I ran 11.1, 11.0, 11.0 at 128, 5 time attack sessions with Paul Gerrard driving (if there is a weak link, he will find it), and 28,000 miles of daily driving...

jamie_v1

Thanks for the info guys