Tallen

iTrader: (2)

Been there.
Use a nut splitter and get the sucker off (parts store cheap). This will let you get the nut off without damage to the stud.
Drill a hole near where the stud goes into the sheet metal. What you want to do is get near the part of the stud encompassed within the sheet metal, then throw a tack weld up into the hole to hold it still. A few tacks may be needed, but this saves chopping the car apart. You may need to grind the tacks to allow for re installation of the sub frame.

Be careful listening to the other advice in this thread, minus the ASE cert guy. Advice that horrible can get you into trouble. You really will need a welder to properly do this though, maybe you can borrow one from a friend if you don't have a mig.

dudical26

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the first hand info, that sounds like the easiest way to do it. I really don't want to have to deal with cutting open the frame so this sounds like a good soultion.

I'll let you know how it goes when I attempt it this weekend.

Tallen

iTrader: (2)

It really does work great, used this method no less than 7-10 times on various cars. Just drill the hole in the right spot and tack away!

dudical26

iTrader: (17)

Can you please describe a little more exactly where I am drilling, maybe you can edit my photo in paint to show where to drill.

Do I really need to drill a hole, couldn't I just weld the bolt to the frame on the outside and then grind it down?

SpeedJunkyz

iTrader: (16)

Horrible advice? It basically the same as yours minus cutting the bolt off, which doesn't harm the car. And by the time you get the nut off, you may have to buy a new bolt, possible stripping. Your advice is still cutting into the car to just weld it. Same diff as mine lol. Besides its under the car and unless you are planning to flip the car over to show it, what diff does it make if you cut one of the walls out of the inclosure or make a hole, to do the same thing......tack weld the bolt still lol........ My advice isn't that far off from your's lol.....But whatever, good luck.........and you're welcome.




SJ

Tallen

iTrader: (2)

Get me a picture of the stud with the sub frame off and I'll show you.

Sure you could do that (weld outside), but keep in mind that the amount of grinding will increase quite a bit. It is normally a tight fit onto the stud and you want to maintain a flush surface around the stud. You only need to drill maybe two holes, each under 1/4". Just enough to get a good tack. Oh and don't forget to do the other stud too, you said it is wiggling.

dudical26

iTrader: (17)

update - I just removed the nut using a nut splitter, it turned out to be a pain in the *** because the nut had a washer built into it and I had to grind that off in order for the nut splitter to work properly.

I saw a tiny little whole that is already in the frame as a result of the building process, might be able to weld through that.

I will get you some pictures so that you can suggest what to do next.

Thanks a lot for the info, it has been very helpful so far!!

Tallen

iTrader: (2)

Good job with the splitter! Are all the threads on the stud ok?
If you can reach the top of the stud through that hole, then all the work is done for you!

dudical26

iTrader: (17)

Yea the threads are all fine. At first I was having trouble getting the splitter to work properly, it was just slipping off. But after grinding down the top of the nut it worked just fine.

cbboost

This happened to me on a customers car last week. I know exactly what your going through and can answer for experience not speculation.
On the car I was working someone had replace a stock clutch in the past. It seems they forced a rusted or damaged nut back on with an impact gun.

My first attempt was to drill a hole threw the sub frame and in to the shaft of the bolt so I could slide a punch in and hold the bolt in place well removing the nut. This may work for you but all it did for me was bend the tip of a hardened punch. If you do this make sure you drill 3/8ish hole. Has to be big enough for a strong punch but not so big that it drill half the bolt in half. Aslo make sure you drill very straight.

My second attempt was to jack the frame up and weld the bolt to the subframe. Even though I jacked the frame up the car still squeaks over bumps.

The car is coming back next week and I am just going with the most labor intense but correct route. You have to cut a hole in the side of the car. Cut 3 sides of a square and bend the metal out of the way. Then remove the bolt and weld a new one in place. Next you need to put the new nut on and be sure that it tightens up before closing the hole you cut. Once all is good fold the metal back in place, weld and paint.

BTW...does anyone know of a part number for that bolt?

dudical26

iTrader: (17)

Since I was able to get the nut off without damaging the bolt I am going to try and weld the bolt inplace without cutting into the frame. I am going to try and just weld the bolt to the frame from the outside.

If you do cut the frame of the car open and you find how the bolt is held inplace PLEASE PLEASE post some pictures of how things look inside that frame rail.

Thanks

MR Turco

iTrader: (16)

just ran into this issue. Does anyone have more advice on where to drill and tack?

Thanks!

MR Turco

iTrader: (16)

bump - help please.

tkklemann

iTrader: (6)

Call me on my work cell, after about 10:00am..

I think I can help you...

I'm sending you a PM with my work number...

MR Turco

iTrader: (16)

will do thanks!