Subframe Bolt Stripped - Any Ideas
Oct 10, 2009, 05:22 AM
#31
so both studs had a lot of play, they could turn about 1/8" in either direction. It felt as though there was a head of a bolt boxed in but not tightly if that makes any sense. Anyway i tighten down the nuts to the 120lbs torque spec without issue or any modification. Maybe they are supposed to do this.
Oct 20, 2010, 04:44 PM
#32
I currently have the same issue... I can see the collar (washer) on the nut spinning when I loosen the nut but it never feels any easier and there's always the same amount of threads left on the nut.
Where do I have to drill/cut to access this bolt and throw a couple tacks on it?
Where do I have to drill/cut to access this bolt and throw a couple tacks on it?
Sep 21, 2011, 09:57 PM
#33
My bad for bumping a dated thread but wow, I just ran into this issue too and I'm not feeling too good... The bolt head is definitely boxed in but i guess when someone uses a 500+ft-lbs impact and just drives the **** out the nut; this will happen... What kind of welding wire did you guys use to make the tacks? I'm planning on going to HomeDepot to pick up a mig welder and was wondering if i had to buy any other welding wire to complete this task.
Thanks
Tim
Thanks
Tim
Oct 5, 2011, 08:00 PM
#39
The bolts are supposed to have some play when loose. When you tighten them down they go furthur into the hole they are in and get tighter. If it spins pry down on the sub frame as hard as possible that will help hold the bolt still. Also make sure to lube the nut when reinstalling and spin it on as far as possible by hand before applying any tq to it so it is seated into the subframe properly.
Oct 5, 2011, 08:02 PM
#40
The bolts are supposed to have some play when loose. When you tighten them down they go furthur into the hole they are in and get tighter. If it spins pry down on the sub frame as hard as possible that will help hold the bolt still. Also make sure to lube the nut when reinstalling and spin it on as far as possible by hand before applying any tq to it so it is seated into the subframe properly.
Oct 5, 2011, 08:12 PM
#43
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My bad for bumping a dated thread but wow, I just ran into this issue too and I'm not feeling too good... The bolt head is definitely boxed in but i guess when someone uses a 500+ft-lbs impact and just drives the **** out the nut; this will happen... What kind of welding wire did you guys use to make the tacks? I'm planning on going to HomeDepot to pick up a mig welder and was wondering if i had to buy any other welding wire to complete this task.
Thanks
Tim
Thanks
Tim
Oct 5, 2011, 08:15 PM
#44
Nah, I just got this Lincoln Electric 140HD from HomeDepot. It's a 120V MIG so you can use it with a standard electrical outlet at home. I was planning on using NR-211-MP wire, the stuff it comes with for the tacks since its not anything really structural. Basically for $530 you get everything you need to fix the spinning stud.
Oct 5, 2011, 08:22 PM
#45
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Nah, I just got this Lincoln Electric 140HD from HomeDepot. It's a 120V MIG so you can use it with a standard electrical outlet at home. I was planning on using NR-211-MP wire, the stuff it comes with for the tacks since its not anything really structural. Basically for $530 you get everything you need to fix the spinning stud.
This. But don't run it on an extension cord or on an outlet that's being powered when you're doing the welding. If you NEED to, find a donkey dick-style cord.