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Subframe Bolt Stripped - Any Ideas

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Old Oct 5, 2011, 08:24 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Stormin Norman
This. But don't run it on an extension cord or on an outlet that's being powered when you're doing the welding. If you NEED to, find a donkey dick-style cord.
Sorry this might be obvious to some but, what the hell is a donkey dick-style cord?
Old Oct 5, 2011, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by timmiii
Sorry this might be obvious to some but, what the hell is a donkey dick-style cord?
Large gauge cord; usually a 2 or 3way Y split about 3-4ft long. They're called donkey dicks, but you can get them longer, or certainly make them longer. Don't remember the gauge though; I wanna say 6?
Old Oct 5, 2011, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Stormin Norman
Large gauge cord; usually a 2 or 3way Y split about 3-4ft long. They're called donkey dicks, but you can get them longer, or certainly make them longer.
Thanks for the clarification!
Old Oct 5, 2011, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by timmiii
Thanks for the clarification!
**** I was slow to edit... either way.
Old Oct 5, 2011, 08:40 PM
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From what I saw for a 140HD MIG 10 or 12 gauge is good for around 30' without much voltage drop and will handle the amperage needed for the machine. I found a thread off another forum dedicated to welding and it talks about voltage drops and even provides a calculator for determining voltage drop for length and wire gauge.

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=30074
Old Oct 23, 2011, 09:04 AM
  #51  
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Funny story. I didn't need my welder. I just wire brushed the studs so that the rust and corrosion was completely gone basically down to bare metal. Got some new OEM nuts and lubed those up pretty good and started threading. So far so good and torqued to spec.
Old Sep 9, 2012, 02:02 PM
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Bringing this back form the dead again for reference sake.

Bolt/nut is m14 x 1.50.

Good luck, the nut splitting method really works.
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