RSMike

iTrader: (1)

yeah i think 1 tooth is 8.25 or 8.5 degrees cam angle

jameswwt

Hi Ted & Mike,
so today everything has finally come into a conclusion...
My evo 5 engine crankshaft bearing was dead while im driving my car...Got knock sound and my mech have confirmed my crank bearing was gone...
What should i do now? What parts should i replace? Lastly how do i tell whether is my current crankshaft still in working condition and the oil pump as well?
Thanks

Ted B

iTrader: (6)

A knocking sound and the crankshaft mains bearing is gone? Are you sure we're not talking about a rod bearing? Is the engine disassembled? Is this the same 'mechanic' that recommended you advance the intake cam gear by one tooth?

IF this is in fact the case, you will need (at minimum) a new crankshaft, a new bearing set, oil pump, oil cooler, and you'll need to completely flush bearing debris from all oil passages in the engine.

jameswwt

Hi Ted,
no it another mech that i know...Well,at the moment its just an assumption but more or less the crank or rod bearing problem...Will go thru a complete check once the mech dissasemble the engine...My God! Do i really need to change the Oil Pump & Oil Cooler???
If say,the bearings just burnt and scratch and not crush,do i still need to replace the oil pump & cooler?
Pls help Ted...

Ted B

iTrader: (6)

Don't make too many assumptions at this point, but expect to find a rod bearing that is damaged. If it has been run this way for awhile, you may need to replace the rod itself, and the rod journal is probably damaged beyond what can be addressed with micropolishing. If this is the case, you will need a new crankshaft, and I strongly suggest upgrading rods, pistons and rings while you're at it. If the bores show negligible wear, you can probably get away with a light honing to break the glaze.

Check your oil for fine metal particles. Cut open the oil filter and check that as well. If the bearing is toast, the bearing particles will have caused internal damage to the oil pump, and there will be particles stuck inside the oil cooler as well. Yes, you should plan on changing these parts, unless of course you don't mind doing this all over again very soon.

RSMike

iTrader: (1)

the reason why Ted is saying to replace the oil cooler is because there *could* be metal all through that too. If you rebuild the engine and use the same oil cooler, you could potentially contaminate the new engine and destroy it >.<
you can check the oil pumps alloy housing (where the gears rotate) and see if there is any scoring/scuffing. If there is, replace it. Dont risk it. But your engine builder should tell you that anyways.
Sorry to hear about your engine. Unfortunately this *could* have been caused by your other tuner

jameswwt

Hi Ted and Mike,
thanks again for yr advise as hope you will continue to share your crucial information during my whole engine rebuilt process...
I will open a new thread under "Evo 5 Engine Rebuilt" and attached photos along the way and again really hope you guys can guide me along the way.
Thank you.

jameswwt

Hi Ted & Mike,
do you think that ive over rev it??? Im running on low boost about 1.1Bar and rev abt 7000rpm but just for few seconds than i heard sound from the engine.
Here are the list of items which ive managed to find for my rebuilt.
1) Used but in good condition CP pistons & BC I-Beam rods 85.5mm
2) Used Evo 3 Crankshaft not seen the stuff yet but according to my friend its still in reasonable condition.
3) New Acl Crank & Rods bearings with Thrust Washers
4) New Top Set Evo 7 model
5) New oil cooler
6) New Evo 7 Mit oil pump
7) New ARP Main Studs
At the moment i thinks that's all and hope you guys can kindly guide me thru this nightmare...
Just few minutes and there's goes $2,700/- estimated for the rebuilt cost.

C6C6CH3vo

iTrader: (9)

no

jameswwt

Hi Guys,
the seller will be delivering 2 crankshaft (Evo 3 & 5) for viewing tomorrow...
1) Anyone knows how to tell whether is the cranks is in good working condition?
What is the turn down point when assessing the cranks??? I don't want to get a crank which will ruin my engine soon...
2) Can a stock Evo 5 valvespring (New) able to withstand 7,200rpm with GSC S2 cams and do i need to replace the stock valve seats as well?
3) Will it lag for GSC S2 cams matching with an Evo 5 stock turbo?
4) How to determine the compression ratio for CP piston and BC rod?
5) Since Ted has advise to flush all the engine oil passage can my mech just use petrol to clean the head & block after the overhaul and how about the turbo? Do i need to flush or clean the turbo as well since its oil cool to?
A Million Thanks

jameswwt

Anyone to share...
Please...

Ted B

iTrader: (6)

All these used points open a new world of questions - questions which we cannot answer. We cannot evaluate these used parts for you from where we are sitting. At least one of these crankshafts better be in like-new condition, with no wear on the journals, because they cannot be machined and reused. You WILL need to have this professionally checked. Same for the rods and pistons - we cannot do this from where we are. You need to get new ARP 2000 bolts for those Chinese-made BC rods. Consider new piston rings.

If this seems like more trouble than buying new parts, it is. You may save very little or nothing in the end.

I do not know the specs for an EVO V valvespring, but it doesn't matter. You WILL want a valvespring upgrade with those cams.

Yes, the cams will lag a little, but they will make more power with an expert tune.

The head and block can be cleaned with petrol and compressed air. Ideally, both will be hot-tanked. The turbo may have some internal bearing damage from the metal particles, but it can probably be cleaned similarly.

jameswwt

Thanks Ted...Trully appreciate yr kind sharing.

albalushi85

Dear Teb B,

I have Vishnu Adjustable cam Gear & HKS 264i/272e on my Evo8, Setted at -6i,-1e and I am not sure if this would be the best setting for that kinda cams.

Infact i dont belive that it is the best because with all my mods from Exhaust, Piping and Suction intake I couldnt pull from a Stock Evo8. I DONT KNOW why my car is WEEK.

Please Advice

Regards,
Balucci

Evo-B

To TedB:

So I am installing GSC S1's this week with adjustable cam gears. The gears were purchased mostly for show, but they are adjustable for a reason. My mods are TBE, Intake, Intercooler, Walbro fuel pump and LICP/UICP. Future mods are cams(obviously!!) and I have a set of PTE-880's, 3-port boost controller and fuel rail. I am tuning myself and am just now starting to tinker with everything ecu.

So my question(s) for you are:

Should I install the injectors and dial them in before or after the cams? I was thinking after and doing the tune and scaling all at once, but recently have been second guessing that choice(I don't know why).

You stated earlier in this thread that with stock turbo you should leave the cams at 0/0. I plan on pushing 25PSI boost (possibly more I don't know what I can get away with the stock turbo). Is your recommendation the same as before??

There is only one all wheel dyno in Hawaii and I am not paying $140/hour to screw around with cam gears. What gains/Losses (in numbers) would I be looking at by adjusting them??

So I could have sworn I came across a thread a while back strictly about cam tuning (it could have been this one). What resources do you use when it comes to cams? Most of the "how it works" sites aren't teaching me things I don't know.

I think that is every thing on my mind... Thanks in advance for all of your help!!