Installed Boost Gauge...Now
#16
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Originally posted by sr20det91
TURBODAWG
Thanks for the reply. That was the mistake I made. I had tapped it after the regulator selinoid. Switched the "T" into the short hose off the manifold and its working like it should.
Thanks
TURBODAWG
Thanks for the reply. That was the mistake I made. I had tapped it after the regulator selinoid. Switched the "T" into the short hose off the manifold and its working like it should.
Thanks
Brian
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Boost Gauge Install
Just a note for those that are in the process of installing a boost gauge. I was taking a look at the different boost install DIY's and two of them actually have the line being plumbed into the wrong side of the Fpr. Read the thread and you will understand why it doesn't work well the other way.
This post from IzenGreyEvo7 below shows the correct side of the Fpr to plumb into, and should help avoid erratic gauge behaviour.
Good work on the easy to read DIY with great pics!!
N10S
This post from IzenGreyEvo7 below shows the correct side of the Fpr to plumb into, and should help avoid erratic gauge behaviour.
Good work on the easy to read DIY with great pics!!
N10S
Originally posted by IzenGreyEvo7
Here are photos showing where to tap.
Move to the passenger side of the intake manifold's surge tank
Notice the solenoid/sensor at the very left. This has two lines running to it. One from the surge tank where you should run the new line. Then a pass through line to the FPR. This is probably
where they tapped. Hence the delayed readings
Here are photos showing where to tap.
Move to the passenger side of the intake manifold's surge tank
Notice the solenoid/sensor at the very left. This has two lines running to it. One from the surge tank where you should run the new line. Then a pass through line to the FPR. This is probably
where they tapped. Hence the delayed readings
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How did you guys run it into the car? Where's a good way to get through the firewall? Pics would be nice..Although I don't know the technical name for it, I ran it through this big plastic cap that was being held on by a screw on one side..
#19
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would anyone have any instructions on how to install the AUTOMETER gauge by any chance?
I assumed is fairly similar, BUT...no such hose came with mine. The only hose that it came with is a thin clear plastic tubing, nothing like the picture.
any suggestions?
I assumed is fairly similar, BUT...no such hose came with mine. The only hose that it came with is a thin clear plastic tubing, nothing like the picture.
any suggestions?
#20
I have my gauge hooked up the "wrong" way, tapping FPR after the solenoid, but haven't had a problem with it not working, or at least I haven't noticed it.
In terms of accuracy, is my setup affecting the boost readings? For example, would my gauge read consistently "high" or "low"?
Thanks,
FB
In terms of accuracy, is my setup affecting the boost readings? For example, would my gauge read consistently "high" or "low"?
Thanks,
FB
#21
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You take the plastic tube that came with it and run it from your guage through the firewall into the where the 3"-4" line is at that line you cut it and insert the T connector. The reason why you dont see your plastic tube is because in order for the plastic line to get a solid reading off the t-connector you will need the rubber vaccum connector to go from your plastic line into the t-connector. It just makes a snugger connection. Good luck! I installed mine yesterday and once I actually knew what i was doing it was easy! Look at this picture on where to put your T-connector.
Good Luck,
Chris
Good Luck,
Chris
#22
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Originally posted by berkel
I have my gauge hooked up the "wrong" way, tapping FPR after the solenoid, but haven't had a problem with it not working, or at least I haven't noticed it.
In terms of accuracy, is my setup affecting the boost readings? For example, would my gauge read consistently "high" or "low"?
Thanks,
FB
I have my gauge hooked up the "wrong" way, tapping FPR after the solenoid, but haven't had a problem with it not working, or at least I haven't noticed it.
In terms of accuracy, is my setup affecting the boost readings? For example, would my gauge read consistently "high" or "low"?
Thanks,
FB
#23
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I don't think the issue is accuracy once the solenoid is open, its more an issue of the solenoid being closed during warm start conditions. This will keep the gauge from working properly until the solenoid is open again.
Any time there is an electro-mechanical device like a solenoid between your "t" insertion and the signal source, you are adding a potential for problems that won't exist if you just plumb off of the intake side.
N10S
Any time there is an electro-mechanical device like a solenoid between your "t" insertion and the signal source, you are adding a potential for problems that won't exist if you just plumb off of the intake side.
N10S
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