SuperchargedGTZ

iTrader: (4)

Well, I just got done installing my boost gauge. Overall pretty easy, except I burned my rugs on both sides from the light I was using to see under the dash...hahaha

So I took for a ride to see what I have been actually boostin, and come to find out that I see a spike from 20-21 for a fraction of a second than tapers off to about 17psi. Is this normal? And is this OK?

FYI....I have 3"UR TB with test pipe, Buschur Intake, and WORKS ecu Reflash

Thanks in Advance

Ed

HobieKopek

iTrader: (8)

You may want to get a boost controller to avoid spikes like that (even if you keep it set at stock boost settings). Though it's still within the acceptable range, it's never really a good thing to spike like that. There's always the question (as you probably can't monitor it atm) of whether the engine is getting enough fuel during those spikes. Running lean like that even briefly can cause serious damage in the long run (or sometimes even immediately).

keviin

iTrader: (2)

do you have an upgraded bov? i'm sure you've heard how the stock one sucks.....

SouthernCrane

iTrader: (1)

i don't think it is uncommon to see 20-21 PSI with the full TB exhaust, but since i only have a CB exhaust i wouldn't know for sure. i see 19PSI on my car, then it tapers to 16PSI.

Compjoc

iTrader: (21)

I got a AMS CB, RMR intake, and im boostin 19 psi. I'm gonna install a Forged BOV, and HKS downpipe in a couple days. Maybe i'll get a little boost spikeage too.

SuperchargedGTZ

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the reply everyone.

I also wanted everyone to know that I tapped the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and I know that some peps have had problems with the gauges workin from this. Well after running for a little while last night, I turned the car off, and turned it back on and low and behold the gauge didnt work....WTF, I check all connections, everything is fine and then all of a sudden it starts workin again. So I dont think much of it turn the car off and come back to my car like 3 hours later, start her up, the gauge works immediately. So I figured out that the gauge only acts funny upon start up after the car has been runnin for a while. THIS IS WEIRD....does anyone have a logical explaination for this???

sr20det91

iTrader: (59)

You know my APEXI guage does the exact same thing. I'm tapped off the FPR also.

Sometimes I'll fire the car up and its fine, other times it take a few minutes for it to start working.

I dunno what the hell it is.

TURBODAWG

iTrader: (54)

You have to tap the boost pressure line before the fuel pressure solenoid valve. If you follow the fuel pressure vac line back to the intake manifold, you must tap into that short line between the intake manifold and the solenoid valve. If you tap into the fuel pressure regulator line after the fuel pressure solenoid valve the gauge will not work when starting the car when warm. When the car is started up when warm the solenoid valve is closed to help with warm starting. Hope that is your problem. If so it is easy to fix.

Brian

Ryanmcd2

Does anyone have a pic of where this is? I am installing mine this Thursday and do not know where that is

HobieKopek

iTrader: (8)

Check the pressure line for kinks.

sr20det91

iTrader: (59)

TURBODAWG

Thanks for the reply. That was the mistake I made. I had tapped it after the regulator selinoid. Switched the "T" into the short hose off the manifold and its working like it should.

Thanks

SuperchargedGTZ

iTrader: (4)

are you referring to the short line on the other side of the manifold??

But overall this isnt a big issue with the way the gauge works...is it?

sr20det91

iTrader: (59)

The one on the left side of the manifold, near the front. It feeds the FPR selinoid.

SuperchargedGTZ

iTrader: (4)

I think I know what you are talking about....it is really short...probably like 3-4"

IzenGreyEvo7

iTrader: (3)

Here are photos showing where to tap.



Move to the passenger side of the intake manifold's surge tank



Notice the solenoid/sensor at the very left. This has two lines running to it. One from the surge tank where you should run the new line. Then a pass through line to the FPR. This is probably
where they tapped. Hence the delayed readings