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What next, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3 or 2.4?

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Old Sep 17, 2008, 04:15 AM
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What next, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3 or 2.4?

Hi guys!

I am searching of matching parts to build a stroker. I already bought and fitted some stock length (150mm) oliver rods and I want to keep them, using them in the current setup in my IX. Now I need some info on what parts to go next.

The final setup needs to feed a GT30 maybe someday a 35 but there are some options. The car is a dd, no dragracing. I want a broad powerband (4krpm should work, the more the better ) and nice power delivery. Mission Impossible yeah yeah

So if the car pulls at 3500 I don't need to rev to 8000.

I've read the stroker sticky but there are only the highrevin 2l or the torquey 2.3l+ which should not be reved that high (<8K). No information about the rodlength.

Stock block -> 94mm crank -> 20 overbore pistons, 2.15l, recommended redline?
Stock block -> 100mm crank -> 20 overbore pistons, 2.3l, recommended redline?
4G64 -> 94mm crank -> 20 overbore pistons, 2.25l, recommended redline?
4G64 -> 100mm crank -> 20 overbore pistons, 2.4l, recommended redline?

And then what combinations will work with the 150mm rods and which wont? Matching cranks? Matching pistons? Only hq parts please

Personal opinions welcome.

TIA.
Old Sep 17, 2008, 04:54 AM
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The primary advantage of the 4G64 block is that, being taller, it allows you to run longer rods than you could in a 4G63. If you really want to use your 150 mm rods, there's very little reason to go with the 4G64.

There are two minor advantages you'd gain from the 4G64 block with 150 mm rods. First, it's got a larger bore, but it's weaker as a result; the 4G63 has more material between the cylinders. Second, if you keep rod length constant, the pistons you'd need for the 4G64 would have a greater compression height than those you'd put into the 4G63. That would make them stronger, though they'd be heavier, and it's strength in an area where it's probably not needed.

Weighed against that is the expense of getting a 4G64 block, and the various minor troubles with adapting it (getting the timing belt right, etc). You'd lose your oil squirters, or have the additional expense of getting them machined into the 4G64.

Sorry, I can't directly answer your question about recommended redline. I can say that the recommended redline is going to be exactly the same for your 4G63 and 4G64-based proposals if you use 150 mm rods.
Old Sep 18, 2008, 03:39 AM
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Hi!

Thanks for the advice, Tom.

After researching a bit: The 4G64 has, compared to the 4G63 more bore (1,5mm) and 6mm increased deck height. A 4G64 with 94mm crank and standard (full height) pistons uses up that additional 6 mm deck. Its about the same as a 4G63 full stock (except the increased displacement). Using "flatter" pistons may get me 6mm more height to use the 100mm crank for additional displacement.

I think I'll have a bigger chat with the enginebuilder/tuner
Old Sep 18, 2008, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by bigleadfoot
Hi!

Thanks for the advice, Tom.

After researching a bit: The 4G64 has, compared to the 4G63 more bore (1,5mm) and 6mm increased deck height. A 4G64 with 94mm crank and standard (full height) pistons uses up that additional 6 mm deck. Its about the same as a 4G63 full stock (except the increased displacement). Using "flatter" pistons may get me 6mm more height to use the 100mm crank for additional displacement.

I think I'll have a bigger chat with the enginebuilder/tuner
who is your enginebuilder?
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