viii block ix head
Mar 26, 2009, 07:21 AM
#31
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thanks... what i was think of doing, instead of drilling into the block for that oil feed to the head, was running a steel line from the oil filter housing, to the head??? that will save from getting any metal in the block, and screwing up the hole if my hands start shaking!!!! lol..... let me know what you guys think??
That's kind 0f what I did. I welded an1/8th pipe fitting to a 12x1.25 nut and made an dapter so I could use the factory line and check valve.
Mar 26, 2009, 10:05 AM
#33
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I am not sure about going from the oil filter housing. The thing is that the special banjo bolt you need for flow is the hard part. Its a very special piece. I am sure some people understand the Mivec very well but I just look at that bolt and think its there to adjust flow to the mivec, Not sure if having too much oil flow would be bad or what. I really was paying attention to the size of the whole deep in the block
thanks... what i was think of doing, instead of drilling into the block for that oil feed to the head, was running a steel line from the oil filter housing, to the head??? that will save from getting any metal in the block, and screwing up the hole if my hands start shaking!!!! lol..... let me know what you guys think??
Mar 26, 2009, 09:15 PM
#34
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I am not sure about going from the oil filter housing. The thing is that the special banjo bolt you need for flow is the hard part. Its a very special piece. I am sure some people understand the Mivec very well but I just look at that bolt and think its there to adjust flow to the mivec, Not sure if having too much oil flow would be bad or what. I really was paying attention to the size of the whole deep in the block
The lower bolt is a check valve used to prevent the oil from draining back out of the mivec assy.
Mar 27, 2009, 06:17 AM
#38
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well i'm gonna start putting the motor together today, and ill let you all know what i decide to do.... I am a welder/fabricator, so i should be able come up with something!
May 30, 2009, 01:34 PM
#40
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Thought I'd make a little update. I had been fighting a little oil drip from the tapped hole for a long time. Tried different things to fix it and finally had a friend that does construction say that they use teflon tape all the time even on straight threads so I tried it and it worked.
A little note....the reason mine leaked is because I didn't drill the hole perfectly level. (which you could never do by hand) I could get a .010" feeler gauge under the bolt on the bottom side of the bolt when it was screwed up against the block. I would suggest teflon tape on the bolt threads. About 3 or 4 tight wraps.
My engine is still running like new.
A little note....the reason mine leaked is because I didn't drill the hole perfectly level. (which you could never do by hand) I could get a .010" feeler gauge under the bolt on the bottom side of the bolt when it was screwed up against the block. I would suggest teflon tape on the bolt threads. About 3 or 4 tight wraps.
My engine is still running like new.
May 31, 2009, 06:30 PM
#43
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You can also just use the black gasket stuff that works great. I hate oil leaks so this is what I did , If you need the fitting types sizes and such let me know
Thought I'd make a little update. I had been fighting a little oil drip from the tapped hole for a long time. Tried different things to fix it and finally had a friend that does construction say that they use teflon tape all the time even on straight threads so I tried it and it worked.
A little note....the reason mine leaked is because I didn't drill the hole perfectly level. (which you could never do by hand) I could get a .010" feeler gauge under the bolt on the bottom side of the bolt when it was screwed up against the block. I would suggest teflon tape on the bolt threads. About 3 or 4 tight wraps.
My engine is still running like new.
A little note....the reason mine leaked is because I didn't drill the hole perfectly level. (which you could never do by hand) I could get a .010" feeler gauge under the bolt on the bottom side of the bolt when it was screwed up against the block. I would suggest teflon tape on the bolt threads. About 3 or 4 tight wraps.
My engine is still running like new.
Jun 1, 2009, 07:48 AM
#44
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You don't want to know....and being a tool and die maker, I'm not too proud to say.
btw I'm not using the stock line. I have some fittings that I made at work that let me use a steel braided line. No check valve in it, but it seems to work fine.
Jun 1, 2009, 07:51 AM
#45
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Right on, thats almost exactly what I did, but not as fancy. It is sooo much better than fighting that damn hard line. I made my own fittings since I have access to materials and lathes and such.
Last edited by sprx19; Jun 1, 2009 at 07:56 AM.