can i tap my HOBBS switch for the br double pumper into this line? PIC
Nov 5, 2008, 02:36 PM
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can i tap my HOBBS switch for the br double pumper into this line? PIC
can i tap the hobbs switch into this?
the vacuum line that enters the intake manifold perpendicularly and has a silver spring clamp. (it continues on over the valve cover to become bov line)
the vacuum line that enters the intake manifold perpendicularly and has a silver spring clamp. (it continues on over the valve cover to become bov line)
Last edited by Dr. SS; Nov 5, 2008 at 03:22 PM.
Nov 5, 2008, 03:11 PM
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unfortunately I see more than 1 line , not sure which you are pointing out.
Personally , and somebody can correct me if I am wrong. I would "T" it into the FPR line. and keep the tubing to the switch as short as possible . And then run the wiring back to the pump.
Atleast that is what I plan to do!!!
Personally , and somebody can correct me if I am wrong. I would "T" it into the FPR line. and keep the tubing to the switch as short as possible . And then run the wiring back to the pump.
Atleast that is what I plan to do!!!
Nov 5, 2008, 03:17 PM
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FPR is where my boost gauge is tapped, is it ok to tap an additional line in there?
i was referring to the line that enders the manifold perpendicularly with the silver spring clamp.
anyone know where i can get a "T" adaptor of the appropriate size?
i was referring to the line that enders the manifold perpendicularly with the silver spring clamp.
anyone know where i can get a "T" adaptor of the appropriate size?
Last edited by Dr. SS; Nov 5, 2008 at 03:21 PM.
Nov 5, 2008, 03:47 PM
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That is the line that connects to the hard line that runs along the valvecover correct???
Like I said personally I would use the FPR line for the hobbs switch and use the other line you pointed out that is what being used for the BOV for the boost gauge. As important as you may think that boost gauge is I would rather use the same line that the car already depends on for proper rail pressure i.e. fuel enrichment for my second pump
Like I said personally I would use the FPR line for the hobbs switch and use the other line you pointed out that is what being used for the BOV for the boost gauge. As important as you may think that boost gauge is I would rather use the same line that the car already depends on for proper rail pressure i.e. fuel enrichment for my second pump
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Nov 5, 2008, 06:17 PM
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Do continuity thru it with a multimeter. should be normally open. blow into it . It should close and complete the circuit. giving you the beeeeeep on the multimeter.
Nov 5, 2008, 09:32 PM
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Dr. SS, THANK YOU SOOO MUCH FOR THIS THREAD, and thanks to the guys that answered your question 
just what I need to know FINALY
just what I need to know FINALY
Last edited by SpeeDeviL; Nov 5, 2008 at 09:36 PM.
Nov 6, 2008, 08:47 AM
#11
Are you guys serious? Dr. SS why keep posting new threads about your BR double pumper install, how about just one?
All of the lines coming out of the IM (except the one on the back going to the brake booster) all see equal manifold pressure. T off of any one of them and make sure they are nice and secure....and most of all CLEAN! The worst thing you can do is have 1000 T's running off in every direction. Keep it simple and clean.
All of the lines coming out of the IM (except the one on the back going to the brake booster) all see equal manifold pressure. T off of any one of them and make sure they are nice and secure....and most of all CLEAN! The worst thing you can do is have 1000 T's running off in every direction. Keep it simple and clean.
Nov 6, 2008, 08:50 AM
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Are you guys serious? Dr. SS why keep posting new threads about your BR double pumper install, how about just one?
All of the lines coming out of the IM (except the one on the back going to the brake booster) all see equal manifold pressure. T off of any one of them and make sure they are nice and secure....and most of all CLEAN! The worst thing you can do is have 1000 T's running off in every direction. Keep it simple and clean.
All of the lines coming out of the IM (except the one on the back going to the brake booster) all see equal manifold pressure. T off of any one of them and make sure they are nice and secure....and most of all CLEAN! The worst thing you can do is have 1000 T's running off in every direction. Keep it simple and clean.
but i have another question and i wont start a new thread if u can get me an answer
where can i get a "T" adaptor? make one out of brass fittings from home depot or something, can i get a plastic one that comes with boost gauges and what not locally?
